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Thank you and ENJOY!
Hello everyone and welcome in a new video!
Today we have a new project in his hands
It is a relatively simple conversion
an old product of Lima
It was actually a gift that I received
quietly almost 10 years ago;
a little 'less from...
5 or 6 years ago...
It was a gift that was made by my uncles for direct current,
I at that time I was going through at alternate current
and at that moment I left him in a mobile
for quite some time and it grieved me much,
because although it is an economic model,
so much so that looking for the online code
I found that this model costs: 50/60 €
But it is one of those gifts with sentimental value
And I for my kind of person, I'm sorry to leave them there
So I decided to cover it
and after a slight analysis
I came to the conclusion that in reality
convert this locomotive is
by the way, it has opened the way because I had already opened;
just pull forward bumpers
and it takes off.
This locomotive is actually quite easy to convert
It has a board logic over here
we're going to take away because we do not need more
How the trolleys are fixed you see that is Lima
with tape them "hold"...
That said we're going to take off
the electronic coupon
We replace it with a socket NEM 362
for Decoder, Decoder and then via
It will be a little game enough to boys
I just hope that the colors are not inverted as in the last case
No I'd say no, it fills my heart with happiness
and well .. it has already LED lighting
This will force us to enter the resistance
but we have, is not a problem
Also the cabinet model is cute, is not bad
It is quite detailed. The pantographs are resilient, at least that,
Does not have the predisposition for by pantograph current,
so much so that they are simply stuck.
But Lima is a model that as much as its dirty figure makes.
While the Cayman is decidedly more economic,
and it is much more ugly,
But we also converted one,
Another gift of his uncles
I'm glad I still have it made, at the time I was a happy child,
still I have a happy boy
and now I have to convert
Now let's see what to do!
The first thing that we go
It is to verify the type of connections that were made
this is very simple relatively
we have the connections to the LED, these here are the LED
kindly the manufacturer, the Lima
also he wrote us anode and cathode, so we know what is the plus (+)
which however it was easy to see by the color red and the black
the anode, remember that is the positive pole
mind the anion is a negative charge,
the finer things in chemistry and electronics... details
am ignorant on the subject, do not I start syndicating
then we have the connections to the engine
track1 and track 2, If one notices the track 1 is red
Now to make us things much easier
I have downloaded directly from the site of the ESU
ie the brand of decoders use
electrical connections (shown in the diagrams in the manual)
It is easy to see that the red will be connected to the shoe, and the black wheels
so where now there's the red, we go to unsolder
and resolder a "bridging" all black
according to the Märklin code would be brown, but we use the DCC code
I do not remember if it's the DCC code and the code NEM
let's jumper wheels, we connect the shoe
their respective cables, led to resistance and the "game" will be fairly easy to do
First, now we are going to take off
were simple hooks, so now we're going to lift it
It will not be possible to lift it that much because of the cables
so the best thing to do is to proceed,
we can immediately see the positive and negative poles of the motor,
Now for the positive pole motor it is orange and the negative pole is gray
should be so, at least the patterns say what
if I go where there is the engine: Yes, motor + and motor -
so the color problem is resolved immediately
We proceed to unsolder
Here, a problem
that these trolleys are required
from, it's hard to show it, a peg, the peg that comes out
now as prospect, probably will not see, I try to put more to the limit can
We have a rag below to remove the tin, to prevent it from falling
if one wanted to do things right should use fireproof stuff, try not to set fire to everything and keep our fingers crossed!
then, we see immediately that the LED 1 and the LED 2
with the decoder it is a little bit easier all the part of wiring
so first of all, the LED, "you've got to be good to yourself doghouse"
according to the code of ESU Decoder
we will have the positive pole on the blue cable (ie the COMMON functions)
so this cable (BLUE) I should go split between both LED
connecting it to the positive terminal, then the negative terminal to be connected respectively to the front and rear lights lights
in series with a resistance of 470 ohm, for LED safety
other things will not be hard to do
one thing I want to do is check how much space I have (height between board and roof) available
I mean:
to avoid that the decoder and the various wires go to hell
ie they may end up where you do not have to
Conveniently what could be
use this coupon as a separator
then I could almost, now I care to remove all wires
general opinion of this board what can I use and what not.
OK, as promises to our locomotive: we carts,
we on each carriage an electrical outlet
ie these cables here,
both motorized carts, perfect
we have the respective LED
and then we have the engine, OK very simple like thing.
Now, electric coupon: we have our strengths,
We diodes, okay, we get not to touch it,
just do a test to see if
It can be mounted upside down
righteous with the separator function and then put the wires up here
With the test actually we realized that this capacitor here actually should be removed,
we take it right away, so repeat this board will serve no more: it will all be handled by the decoder.
OK, we have succeeded, however, we had to remove the resistances,
This here,
I recommend it when we are sure to want to leave in alternating,
Now this one will remain so, and I will not be problems.
In the event that, above all, I wanted to turn the card
to avoid that the welding points or at least tin,
factory
They could make short circuits.
it was a preventive, it really is not necessary
and if one wants to avoid making trouble just pull the threads.
So at this point
we miss a call thread...
Oh no no I found it I found,
here it is,
and proceed to the new solders.
Behold, I now, for convenience,
First I unsoldered the green wire,
for the simple reason that
the green wire is the function 1,
and us on this locomotive would not have the anointing 1
then to have a wire in less
then I made you paste,
NEM socket, because this
from experience, having this outlet that moves freely
it is rather inconvenient.
so now I
"This here to me is the front"
"or not..."
"Okay, yes, rather the reverse it"
You just have to make sure that when you paste, the paste is on the right side
then I for example,
I have the white cord, which are the head lights connected to what for me will be the front
gray is related to the engine black,
the other side of the orange that is the plus (+) of the motor
blue is the Common, what then must run it in one way or another
therefore it is not currently a top priority
5/2 dries the adhesive and then begin to pay off.
Here, we went to pay off the common to the positive terminal of the LED,
with this kind of "crossover"
which in fact would be a node,
We also connected the rear LED
the blacks have connected them respectively
the yellow wire that are the Rear Light, rear lights
and the front to white front lights
both have a resistance of 470ohm
to avoid that are based
Now we're going to connect the motor
remember that orange is the positive pole, the negative pole and gray.
OK, we have bridged the front wheels
They would be the two red and black power wires
and the external black wire connected to the wires behind
and then connected to the black wire of the NEM socket.
so the only thing missing is the shoe that now we're going to put.
Since they are relatively cheap projects
actually the shoe is one of the cheaper ones taken on eBay
and is a bit 'long
even more if one notices, he realizes that the plastic part, this was probably a carriage,
touches against Carter of motorized axles,
then we will make a small change
We will lift the upper part
will remove these by cutting blades, then we will paste copper on Carter directly.
Interventions are very drastic
and that you can afford on cheap models
LIMA this type that I convert to a sentimental and not economic value
so I can afford to do these "havoc"
One thing that can be especially convenient,
since these shoes, or at least that the cable has not already welded
It welds it before pasting shoe
will be welded this above
as you saw I removed the plastic part and cut the fins
and then I will not do that paste it to the locomotive.
If you did like me the error to remove the plastic support
before making the weld, be very careful because
when you solder the heat will tend to deform the thin metal plate
so be very careful not to force otherwise you will end the foil folded
If you have to solder the cable so and you have to change the shoe later
first thing welded to the wire and after remove the rear
NOTE: If like me you have to glue the shoe factory as it was never intended
make egregious attention to paste it straight
now more or less straight, before I had pasted at an angle of rotation too high
that would definitely give problems
unfortunately it was unsoldered the cable, so now you will be rewelded.
Sometimes solder the wire on the shoe
especially if you have to work
It can be a very delicate operation and the wire tends to come off
I solved with a mini ploy
I took the extreme of a diode
I had not used
electronic as they say: never throw anything
I welded on the shoe
and I put it outside
on a piece of plastic, now he can not see because it is under
and the wire I soldered up there
This increases rigidity, and I will have minor issues related to the possible loosening of the wire
OK, we finally managed to settle even the shoe
which it is the red wire
This is a binary I specially modified to work with the wiring from alternate current
"Is the black wire is disconnected..."
With the LokProgrammer
which it is the control unit of the ESU
we mount the decoder and then try to program it
Okay, just so I tentatively assembled
It has been read by the software correctly
Obviously now it's on the default settings
so now we are going to load the project I had already created for that decoder
So: I put the address, from 0 to 80, 24 to be able to make it work on older units
second address: for Motorola Selectrix and DCC Consist: We do not care
Operating in analog: Yes (default settings)
Compatibility: All
DCC: All On
Then, let 's see:
Brisk acceleration, default values
Function Control: The AUX 1 is disabled, the AUX 2 also.
not changed settings
Speed: the lower it a bit 'to be more faithful to the prototype
this one will not go at full speed, no matter
Information: we have our photos
Your name: E424 XMPR XMPR is the name of the livery
Functions: F1 and F2 disabled
other are logical
at this point we do a "Upload to Decoder"
We also did a check to see if they are available for FirmWare update
We check that it is OK
we put the test in Motorola mode
OK perfect, at this point we see right away if it works
if I active the Light 1...
Here it is!
whereas if the active front ..
This seems to have a contact problem
and we quickly realized that there is one who has a problem
Now we do a test, with this direction
the locomotive should go to the left, if I put the 1 speed
no, here it is wrong
I reversed directions of rotation
Not a problem because if I'm going to Decoder
I go about Driving characteristics
I can say that I will have to go in the reverse direction
sorry if I'm doing the video with the phone and through the screen, I hope you will be able to see equally
Now I save my project, the markup on locomotive
and now theoretically should be okay
so if I return
in my Motorola mode
I again partnza8
you should go to the left
perfect
successful decoder programming
Now we see on the Mobile Station
Here we are on a test track connected to a Mobile Station 1
This decoder, given that compared to the other cost very little in most
we talk about two thirds €
is the 'M4, so it will automatically record on the control panel
so if we go immediately to activate the light
and we quickly made a mistake...
we configured the contrary
then... We have a problem, the rear LED is not lit
this is not an emergency, after the look
this has been programmed on the contrary, was wrong turned reverse the LokProgrammer
Behold, I have done something, I set the "Rule 17" mode
ie when it stops the brightness of the lights is lower
when instead it moves back to the maximum
the operation is constant
It is fairly constant
if it were not one could try to change settings in the engine
by changing the PWM frequency from 40kHz to 20kHz
Now I do a test to see if the motion with 20 kHz mode is more linear
Small NOTE: When you try to mount the socket NEM
Check it closes, I had to move it
I corrected the U-turn that was not required
time is right, the lights go on before
with a low intensity because of Rule 17
As soon as I start
It came out when he was not in a lot of running
try on the fly to do so...
the problem to the LED before I said, is that unfortunately had burned
I do not know how it happened, then I'll try to figure it out
and we will see how to replace it, for now I just closed
Now I tried to set the PWM frequency to 20kHz
let's see if it happens to be more regular
to me it seems a bit 'more discontinuous then replace the frequency to 40kHz
so I would say that at this point the project is concluded.
The conversion is finished, the shoe is mounted in front
where the lights are not burned work
so I would say that this project
It is to be considered, Concluded!
THANK YOU ALL!
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