[music] [00:00:07]
In this tutorial, we're going to learn to make these socks.
They are socks with a new heel design.
I'm calling them the sling heel socks.
You don't have to make them this long.
But these are the sling heel socks with a different shaping thing going on with the
toes or the heels.
And I designed these socks in an attempt to make the very best-fitting socks that I possibly
could, and this is what I came up with.
I'm happy with it.
The pattern includes instructions for both DK weight and fingering weight because that's
what you guys always ask for, fingering weight being just regular socks and DK weight being
a little bit heavier.
And I'll tell you I've been knitting DK weight socks for a while now.
I personally really like DK weight socks.
They knit up really quickly and they wear just almost exactly like fingering weight
yarn.
It's up to you.
The instructions are all in the pattern.
If you'd like to get your pattern to follow along, just click the little 'i' in the upper
right-hand corner.
That will take you to my website where you'll see a list of the materials that you need,
and you can get your pattern and everything else.
Everything's there on my website.
Well, what was I gonna say?
Oh, you can use...
Let me back up here.
I'm gonna call this an intermediate sock pattern.
I think it will go best for you if you knit socks in the past and this isn't your first
try with socks.
If you've never knit socks before and you want to give them a try, I'm going to recommend
my toe-up socks using German short rope pattern.
I'll give you a link to that right here.
That's a good place to start.
And then this would be a fine second pattern if you've never knit socks before.
But if you've knit socks before that's fine.
It's not that they're really hard, it's just that the shaping is around all of the stitches
on the needles and it's just it's one extra step, it's one more thing to think about,
and having a little sock experience is helpful with that.
So an intermediate pattern.
You can get these on whatever needles are your favorite soft needles, the style that
you like to use, whether that's double-pointed needles or nine-inch circulars or magic loop
or two long circular needles.
I personally like to knit toe-up socks using double-pointed needles for the toe, switch
to nine-inch circulars for the foot, and then with these socks I stayed on the nine-inch
circulars around the heel and the cuff, yeah, the length of the cuff, and then I switched
back to double-pointed needles for the ribbing.
It's not really necessary, I just prefer to work knit purls on double-pointed needles,
the nine-inch circulars.
That's just my preference.
You don't have to do it that way.
It's totally up to you.
The pattern is written in a way a generic way so you can just pick up with whatever
style of needles that you want to use.
Okay, I'm talking and talking.
I've got everything here.
I think I've got everything.
As with all of my patterns you can trust that the powder is written out row by row.
There is no guesswork, no "continue in this manner for..."
You know, it's row by row with actual stitch numbers.
We use German short rows in the shaping of these.
I know that a lot of people really like those.
I think I said all the words.
I did.
We're gonna get started knitting the socks up next.
If you've worked other patterns of mine that used German short rows for the shaping, this
is really going to be no different for you.
I'm not gonna show you anything that you haven't already done before in this tutorial.
The difference is, of course, the way that they shaping is spaced out in the heel.
And that's what we're going to take a look at now, so let's go ahead and see.
Okay.
This is a close-up of the sock and you can see these actually have just been steamed,
they have not been fully blocked.
But you can see you end up with a really clean-looking heel, and the heel shaping goes all the way
around the entire foot.
And that's why it fits so well.
To show you what most socks look like...
Nothing wrong.
We've been wearing socks like this for hundreds of years, but short row heels just work on
half of the stitches and so it doesn't fit quite as well.
It's good.
It stretches out and it's fine.
But this is just something that fits really well.
This is the fingering weight and I've included some calf shaping in there for even a nicer
fit.
And this is the DK weight, calf shaping there too.
Okay.
We're going to get started with a short row tow, and we're going to use a provisional
cast-on for this.
So you need a crochet hook.
You don't really have to know how to crochet, but you need a crochet hook.
I'm going to start with some scrap yarn, some worsted[SP] weight scrap yarn that's contrasting
to the yarn that I'm actually using for the sock.
And in this demonstration, I'm going to use thicker yarn, bigger needles, fewer stitches.
I'm just creating an example here for demonstration.
So tie a knot in the yarn that you can feel, and then make a slipknot.
And with your crochet hook, chain a few stitches.
And we're gonna do a provisional cast-on right onto the needle.
And this is whether it's a double-pointed needle or a circular needle.
It's up to you.
So you want to put the needle over the working yarn, then reach the hook over, grab the yarn
and pull it through.
You've just cast on one.
Pull the working yarn behind, the crochet hook over, grab the yarn and pull it through,
working yarn behind.
[00:05:59] [silence]
[00:06:09]
I used to demonstrate this cast-on a little bit differently with picking up stitches,
but the feedback was so overwhelming that everyone liked this way better.
I've just switched to it even in my own knitting.
I've just switched to this weight.
I'm easily influenced by what people tell me I guess.
I'm not counting.
Oh, that's perfect.
Once you get all of your stitches cast on, just chain a few more stitches and cut your
yarn.
And pull that end through the last loop and tighten it up a little, but not crazy tight,
right, because it we're gonna undo that.
We are going to actually work an entire little toe of the sock right here.
So starting at the slipknot end - it's the end with the knot in it - put your needle
in and start working with your actual sock yarn, and knit across those stitches...
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[00:07:36]
...and then purl back.
And that will set us up, ready to start the short-row shaping.
[00:07:46] [silence]
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Okay.
To get started, you work across all of the stitches.
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[00:08:28]
Turn your work.
And this is how you're going to work the German short row on the wrong side of the work the
purl side you slip that stitch.
Then you tug up on it so you create kind of a funny little double stitch.
Pull the yarn forward between the two needles and purl to your next destination.
[00:08:48] [silence]
[00:09:00]
In this case, it's all the way across.
I turn the work.
And then on the net side, I'm going to slip that stitch, pull up on it and you'll create
a little double stitch.
It looks a little different than the other ones, than the purl side.
And knit across to the next stitch.
...Okay.
Turn the work.
My working yarn's already in front because I'm on the purl side.
So I'm gonna slip that stitch, give it a tug to create the double stitch, pull my yarn
forward between the two needles and purl.
So this part of the German short row stitches is just creating these double stitches and
turning the work.
And the German short row technique keeps there from being holes in the work where we've turned.
So I turn the work, and on the knit side I'm gonna pull my working yarn forward so that
it's in front.
You always want to start the German short row technique with your working yarn in front.
Slip that stitch, give it a tug and then knit to the next destination.
[00:10:16] [silence]
[00:10:27]
Okay.
The purl side again.
The working yarn's already in front.
I'll slip that stitch, tug yarn forward and purl.
[00:10:36] [silence]
[00:10:47]
Okay.
One more time here on the net side: yarn forward, slip, tug and knit.
Now ,that is the German short row technique for the first half of the toe.
And you can see we have some good shaping in there, even though this is very few stitches
and thicker yarn.
We're gonna have something that looks like a toe.
On the second half of the shaping, you knit up to where you have your little double stitches.
And you knit those two halves together on the first one and the second one, turn the
work and do the German short row technique on this turn stitch.
Just slipping it, tug, yarn forward and purl.
...And on this side, I'll Pearl the first two halves of the double stitched together
and the next one.
Turn the work and work the GSR.
Always remember to yarn forward on the knit side.
[00:12:04] [silence]
[00:12:20]
The first double stitched together, the second double stitched together, turn the work.
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[00:12:46]
The first one, the second one.
...We're almost done with this toe, this toe that's not going to fit anyone.
...Okay.
There's only one double stitch left.
I'll just knit that together and turn the work.
And then I'm not going to work a German short row.
I'm just gonna slip that stitch without working it, and continue.
[00:13:26] [silence]
[00:13:42]
Okay.
Just one double stitch left.
I'll work those two halves together.
And that is it.
I guess it's kind of the size of a baby sock or kid's sock.
That's the toe, the abbreviated toe.
And now we want to take out the provisional cast-on so that we can retrieve these live
stitches and start knitting in the round on the foot of the sock.
So we have this yellow yarn we're ready to take out.
You want to find the non-slipknot end, which is the end without the knot in it, and pull
out that end you pulled through to end the chain.
And you can start unzipping the crochet chain.
The first stitch is always different from the others.
It's wonky.
The yarn actually runs through that stitch.
So get your needle in there.
We still want that stitch.
And then pull the yarn out from that stitch.
Luckily there's only one of those.
Okay.
Now when we look at the provisional cast-on the stitches you'll see that...
Oops, I'm about ready to lose one, hold on.
You'll see that you have a row of Vs going up into a column of Vs that go up into the
provisional cast-on.
You want to go under...you wanna put your needle under the right leg of each V going
up.
So that one under the right leg.
And try not to grab the scrap yarn.
And if ever you're losing track of where you are, just follow the column of these up.
[00:15:38] [silence]
[00:15:48]
Two, four, five.
And the put half of the stitches on one needle, and then I can unzip the crochet chain.
And grab a second needle and put half of the stitches on the second needle.
[00:16:08] [silence]
[00:16:19]
Okay.
La la la.
That is done.
We're finished with that scrap yarn and we have all of these live stitches and it's fabulous.
I'm gonna tie the working yarn to the tail end to tighten everything up.
And the pattern will have you knit a few rounds in the toe color before you switch colors.
I'm just gonna go ahead and switch color here because there's one more thing I wanna show
you.
Oh, you also probably wanna put a Clippy marker here.
Lemme just go and do that.
I'm gonna put a Clippy marker here where the two ends are.
That's the beginning of my round between these two.
And when I switch to nine-inch circulars, I'll just switch to a ring marker.
Okay.
I'm gonna start knitting with my foot color.
You can knit these in one solid color of course, but...
I think it looks nice, especially with a unique heel.
It looks nice to change color for the toe, heel, and cuffs.
...So I'm switching colors and knitting one round.
And I want to show you what to do so that you have a clean color break at the beginning
of the round without a jog in the spiral.
[00:17:53] [silence]
[00:18:06]
Okay.
We have all of these yarns and ends and everything.
I always like it when you get enough knit on the toe that you can shove all the ends
in and they don't bother you anymore.
You can just weave them in too.
Okay.
We're gonna correct this color change jog.
So I've changed colors, I've worked one round.
On the first stitch of the second round, you wanna do this little technique.
I have the yellow yarn, the color I'm actually using on the first stitch, and then stitch
below it in blue is the one I wanna focus on.
I wanna put my needle under the right leg of that stitch just like we did when we were
pulling out the provisional cast-on and pop it up on the needle with the yellow stitch.
And then I wanna knit those two together.
And that's it!
You only have to do that once after you change color, and it will give you a clean, even
color break without a little zigzag stairstep in the work.
That's all the techniques used in the toe of the sock.
They're actually the same techniques used in the heel of the sock.
All you have to do when you're working the heel is to just use a row counter all of the
stitch counts are there because the German short rows are spaced out a little bit.
You don't have German short rows turns right on top of each other.
They're staggered out to use all of the stitches all the way around.
Just follow the instructions, use a row counter.
Next up we're going to talk about the calf increases and the bind-off.
Once you get past the heel, it is all smooth sailing.
Just cuff round and around and around, cuff knitting.
And I've put in calf increases for the best possible fit, and I've put them in places
where I think it works.
At least it does for me, and I think it's going to be kind of a good medium-sized calf
increases.
But of course, if you find yourself with socks often being too tight, you can increase more
often, and I'll give instructions for that.
Or if you have really thin legs, you can stretch the calf increases out a little bit and not
do them quite as often.
The beauty with toe-up socks is that you can try them on while you're doing it and see
how the fit is going.
And so you can always just add more increases, take them out.
All the instructions are in the pattern.
But the last thing that I want to demonstrate is the bind-off that that I've been using
for socks.
Over the years I've used different bind-off for socks, and they all work, they're all
stretchy enough.
But I know that I get feedback from folks that don't like the bind-offs that leave you
with a fluted edge.
When you put the sock on, the fluted edge stretches out and you can't see it, but they
don't like the fluted edge when the socks are in the drawer.
I don't know, I don't have a problem with that, but I've switched to this other bind-off
because I know people just like the look of the smooth edge better.
I guess I'm kind of making fun of people.
But it's a good bind-off anyway, let's take a look.
So this is a little sample of two-by-two ribs that I can demonstrate the bind-off, and I've
done this bind-off before where I've knit the knits and purled the purls.
I found that it really doesn't make much difference.
You can just...this is the DK weight.
You see you get a nice-looking top edge here just by knitting all the stitches and not
bothering with purling.
So that's what I'm gonna show you how to do, but you can pull the purls if you like.
So I'm going to knit to, take the tip of my left needle and put it into the front of those
two stitches, wrap the needle and pull through, essentially knitting those two stitches through
the back loop together.
Knit.
Knit those two through the back loop.
Knit.
This is really it.
...This is the stretchy bind-off that I use all the time now.
Knit those two through the back loop.
And someone asked me the other day, "Should I switch to a bigger needle size to work this
bind-off?"
And I've never found there was a need to.
I always switch to bigger needles for binding off, but just not with this one.
I find that it's plenty stretchy.
So that's the edge that you get, and you can see it doesn't flute out.
It stays pretty flat, but it's very stretchy for the cuff of socks.
And that's it.
Those are all the techniques used in the new sling heel socks.
Again, if you wanna get your copy of the pattern to follow along, just click the little 'i'.
All of the information is on my website.
Good luck.
[00:23:19] [music]
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