Hello everyone ! It's Damien! Come on, the already completed range of Fuji lenses
has just welcomed a new kid : the XF 80 F2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro.
Yes ! That's a pretty long name.
So, I've been using it for almost two weeks now and it's time for the verdict,
it's test time.
Before starting, as usual, I remind you that I don't pretend to be
a professional.
I don't have any tools like the professionals who do this, so I just do
by feel, I do the best I can and it's worth it.
In any case, this is only my personal opinion and all that is only my responsibility.
That being said, let's do the test anyway.
Let's get acquainted with the XF 80.
So, the XF 80, as you can see, is a big beast.
It is really big.
It is very long, very large and quite heavy.
So, as you can see, he has this part here, which is a little unusual here, which is
quite smooth, pretty looking.
Well, the turn is as usual at Fuji, it breathes strength, it breathes
quality.
It's all made by metal, there isn't really any construction defect, it's
nickel.
If you are used to a Fuji lens, you will not feel homesick.
We are really in Fuji standards.
So, it's a very good one.
If we must describe this lens.
So, we have buttons here that will allow : here, to disable or enable the stabilizer,
we have three modes for the autofocus .
A full mode that gives you both autofocus and macro autofocus.
A mode where you only activate autofocus by far, much like you have on other
lenses.
And a mode where we only have autofocus up close.
We have a ring here, any opening that allows you to go from 2.8 to F22 and obviously,
the automatic position in addition.
And as you can see, we have this very large ring here to focus.
And as we know how difficult it is to focus in macro, frankly, Fuji
has spoiled us with a ring that is wide, very flexible and very precise.
It's really something Very good.
Then we have this part here which is a little unusual for the lenses.
As you can see, we have here: "bla-bla-bla Super EBC", so with treatments
so that you get any reflection in all possible situations
and imaginable.
"LM" is for "linear motor", so you're supposed to have a linear autofocus.
In short, we will talk about autofocus.
"OIS" is for stabilization.
"WR": it is tropicalized and so it is 62mm in diameter.
And it has the macro symbol, sign that we have a 1/1 magnification.
As you can see, the front lens is a bit small.
Finally, she is not that big.
So, in any case, we really have a beautiful object.
All right ! I put it next to his friends
So, as you can see, the XF 80 is there, it's bigger than the 16-55mm,
which many find huge.
So, that's saying how big it is.
You see, it's over 2 cm here.
And it is also wider than the XF 90 which is here.
So there you are, a beautiful baby.
Here, obviously, I put a 50-140mm.
As we can see, it can't even reach the size of the 50-140.
So, when we mount it on the camera, we have a set, at first on a
XT 20, we will talk about it at the end of the video.
But on an XT 20, if you don't put "Hand Grip", it will be a little complicated.
So, you see, this is a set that is still very long.
It's not a compact whole at all.
We are not at all in the compact there.
So, if me here, I have the "Hand Grip" from Fuji, so the MH GT X10.
Frankly, with the "Hand Grip", we have no problem to use this kind of lens.
But without the "Hand Grip", it's true that it can make a set that is
immediately unbalanced.
Let's take about 30 seconds to talk about the noise of this XF 80.
So, already, there's something that seems to be wandering inside. 0:04:30.550,0:04:38.030 So, according to the forums, these are the autofocus groups.
When it is powered, they are driven by engines and as soon as the engines
stop, they will be wandering inside and it is the "clang-clang" that we hear,
which is perfectly normal a priori.
When we turn it on, we really have an electronic noise.
So, I'll let you hear it.
All right ! You see ? We're going to talk about noise, but it's not a lens which is very
quiet.
It's even a lens which makes a lot of noise.
You must also know that this pebble, it weighs 750 g, so it starts to count
anyway.
But we'll say that it weighs for good reasons, since inside, it's
a little technology jewel..
So, this is the first macro lens of the Fuji range 0:05:24.449,0:05:25.449 with a true 1/1 magnification ratio.
Fuji promises us a sharpness and an ideal bokeh for photos of flowers, nature, etc.
Featuring a new stabilizing motor which allows freehand shooting
by linear vibration reduction.
So, implied, the new technologies.
Incidentally, this is one of the first times, and therefore, the only Fujifilm fixed focal length
to have stabilization.
So, hip hip hip, hooray! So, we are on a lens that is tropicalized, which
is sold to operate up to -10 and even the front lens is treated
to promote the flow of water and dirt.
So, really something in the high-range.
Fuji has developed a brand new system of focus for this XF 80 which uses
a floating focus system.
And so, we hear: "cling, clang" which actually divides the lens groups between
a group in one side of forward focus and another group which is
rear focus.
And in fact, it will direct these groups according to the shooting distance
with high precision.
At least, that's what Fuji promises.
There is a whole system of rails inside.
In short, we will stop with the details, but all of these to say that it is full of new
technologies that are developed by Fuji for this lens, and it does not take over
the old-known and mastered technologies until now.
So much for the promise.
In any case, now we will start with the test.
Now let's start with the normal mode of the lens, which is at a normal working
distance, which is not macro.
Let's talk about the sharpness.
The dive of this lens is purely excellent, and this from the largest opening.
This is surely what amazed me the most with this lens..
It is that from 2.8, it is super.
Frankly, from 2.8, we directly have an extraordinary sharpness
The best sharpness, it is reached rather to the 5.6 and the sides are also excellents
from the start.
Is it a never seen level of sharpness ? No, it's not necessarily
a never-seen.
At least, I don't feel that way..
This is equal to what was best done at Fujifilm with other lens..
This does not especially mark a revolution.
Fujifilm announced with these new technologies, to have crossed yet another notch higher.
Personally, I did not get the impression.
The stabilization is good, but it is not revolutionary either.
We will get three stops like almost all the lens since several
years.
I show you a graph with the results of the stabilization tests I was able to do.
And as you see, in fact, we are at just over 50% of success..
We are 1/15 of a second and a photo 1/8 of a second, it really requires
a lot of testing and a little luck..
The bokeh is going to be nice and sweet.
It is already well pronounced at 2.8 and this is good because the sharpness is at the rendezvous
2.8.
So, this is a lens we can easily use from 2.8
Come on, I'll shiw you some pictures quickly
Here, this photo, I wanted to show it, I did it mainly for the bokeh.
So, the bag, it's almost the size of a head.
It's still a big bag.
We see that despite its opening in 2.8, if we wanted to make a portrait,
there is not much distance between the tree and the bag
So, we still have a nice bokeh behind.
In terms of sharpness, here we are at 2.8 and if we zoom to 1/1, as you can see,
it's already very sharpened.
Sincerely, it's already very sharpened.
I told you, the best opening for me is around 5.6.
We can see, so there is 2.8 on the right and 5.6 on the left.
You see, it's almost hard to really see the difference between the two.
So, if we zoom in here twice, we see that the "GUESS" here
and the seams here are sharper, but still that's when we realize that
as soon as the biggest opening, it's really sharp..
And that's probably its asset, I think, to this lens,
Then, from the F11, we will start to lose a little more in sharpness.
There, we see that it is less sharpened, already, from F11.
So, a photo that I could do, which is not bad anyway in terms of sharpness.
So, here, we are not in macro, we are in portrait, so we see the shallow depth
of field.
We see that the ear here is completely In the blur.
So, I started at 100%. The hair there, we could almost count the hair.
Again, this is a picture taken at 2.8.
The eyelashes are the same, we can count the eyelashes.
We see absolutely every detail possible and imaginable.
In the eyes, we see the veins in the eyes, we see the lips, all the chaps
here in the lips, etc.
We see the pores of the skin.
So, there were some comments that said at the time they introduced
the XF 80 that it was too sharpened to make a portrait and therefore, not sweet enough.
There, it is true that with photos like that, we realize how much he still has
under foot to make beautiful portrait photos and have a huge sharpness.
Here, it's the same, we see the hair, we see the glasses.
Here, we can read "Pierre Cardin" which is really tiny.
We see that the photo is extremely precise, there are some who
would say that it comes to compete with things that have much more resolution.
So, I'm not going to test the homogeneity in the center.
Frankly, there is very little difference between the center and the edge..
Let's talk about autofocus now.
And for the autofocus, I'm a bit annoyed.
I will be transparent with you, it is often flawless and fast, a very good
autofocus.
But sometimes, I don't know why, It's going to spin.
It seems at times, to hesitate in fact,
it can't do it and it can spend five or six seconds searching without ever
figuring out how to focus and it's a bit weird.
So, we have to show him another place.
And at that moment, it does the focus and it regains its spirits.
But as I said in the presentation of the XF80, it will have two separate mechanisms
to focus macro or remote.
And in fact, it will go from one to the other, super fast mechanisms.
It's going to work pretty well, but sometimes and we don't really know why it can't
really know if it has to go near or far, and in fact,
It's a bit like bugging.
But finally, most of the time anyway, it works and in low light, the autofocus,
it struggles as often.
But still, he is not doing so badly.
Come on, I'm putting on a demo of autofocus, like that, everyone realizes what
we're talking about.
So here, I'm in macro, she's right next to me, the compote..
And listen to the sound of the autofocus.
You see ? This is not a lens which we could make video with.
It really makes too much noise.
So here I do tests of near focus, focus away.
You can see how well things are going.
Here, in this case, we are in a good sequence.
So, it's going on very well.
That answers quarter turn, the autofocus is very responsive.
We are really in the typical example of when it's okay.
And there, you see, already, he was a little slower, we don't know why.
It's going well.
There, I go with the lens to see how I reach the breaking point where
I am at more or less than 10 cm, so it does not work normally.
But you see, he continues to focus, all this is still pretty
fluid.
And here I am in AFC since earlier.
But it works better.
There you see, it fits perfectly.
We are still in cases where it works well.
And here we will reach a point where it does not work anymore.
Test that I did 50 times before without any difficulty.
Well, I don't know why, all of a sudden, you see ? It's bugging.
There, I have my finger halfway, I drop, I press, I press and it struggles.
So it took six to seven seconds to regain consciousness.
Another example, it's the same, you see, it takes five to six seconds
to focus..
So that's is it ! That's what I told you, I'm a little bothered for the autofocus.
I will not tell you that it is very bad, since it is not the case.
Most of the time, it's still pretty good.
But there is still sometimes where it struggles a little anyway,
It's pumping a little.
So, it's like that.
An autofocus that is a little "half-fig, half-grape" Often very good, but when it bugs,
It really bugs for real..
Because really, it really takes a long time to find the focus,
it can't do at all.
Come on, we're going to see him struggling.
So here we are in a scene that I filmed where the light was low enough
and we will realize that the lens, still, it's struggling.
So it's not always like that, sometimes it's pretty good.
There, for example, he does the autofocus, but even so, it is quite often a little
windy, especially in low light.
So, here, again, it's a video made in low light.
So, we see in the beginning that it works well and then, suddenly, it will go completely
into a spin.
You see, I can even do it again and again
So, again, it took a few seconds, but he got there.
We will see even worse than that.
And, when we come back we don't know why it loses its pedals..
It was almost on the autofocus, it really did not miss much.
And there, it completely derails, it doesn't know where he is and he is bugging.
And there, sometimes, we can wait for a long second.
If you don't unfold it by going elsewhere, etc., starting again ; it will never regains
its senses, he can not do it.
And there, we see, on the trash, really, it can't do.
And there, I press, I press, I let go, I press, I release.
And despite everything, it's bugging.
Really, it struggles.
So, this is only in low-light.
Regarding the other parameters, we must know that there is no aberration,
there is no vignetting, there is no distortion and on that side, promises
are fully kept.
In short, no doubt, it is an excellent lens.
And if we stop there, I would recommend it.
But obviously, its main asset is its macro mode that allows it
to focus until the ratio 1/1.
So, be aware that the ratio 1/1,
It is reached when you are about 10 cm here, of the subject.
And so, at that moment, we are talking about what we call: 100%, which means
the subject is the same size in real life as on the sensor.
Autofocus remains good in macro mode with pumping phenomena sometimes.
It will probably be used more often, with manual focus,
with this kind of lens in macro mode, since it has an extremely small depth of field.
And I find that the ring is very comfortable, it's nice enough to come to
focus in manual and it is very flexible, it is very precise.
Nevertheless, the transition from macro mode to normal mode is usually
correct and quick for the autofocus..
The objective is reactive and it's able to switch between normal AF macro AF
very quickly and without being aware.
The sharpness, in macro mode, it is optimal rather around F8.
The sharpness with big openings in macro mode seemed to me of less good quality than
it was in normal mode, I want to say.
We have the impression that in normal mode, we really had a great sharpness from 2.8.
In macro mode, in 2.8, it's still very good, but it's still not exceptional.
And we have to wait to open a more and even wait for F8 to really
have the best sharpness.
So, in macro, what is important too is bokeh.
And here we are served, since we have a bokeh that is very sweet.
In my opinion, it is really impeccable, this bokeh.
It is really perfect for highlighting the subjects we photograph.
Come on, some photos for the macro, to show you the bokeh.
You see, here we have a bokeh that is still very pronounced,
which is very soft, which is very fluid to highlight things, there is really
any problem with this lens, it's a great job what Fuji did.
So, the bokeh really allows to highlight the subject.
A photo that was a lost, but we see again the bokeh with a human
this time.
I did not remember that I had selected this photo, I could have shown it
earlier.
The 1/1 magnification, to show you a piece of two euros, it gives
about that.
You see, the 1/1, it still allows to get very close to the object.
So, I did the sharpness as usual.
We will quickly compare 2.8 to 8 and we will realize that there is still
a gap between the two.
2.8 being on the left and 8 on the right.
So, we still notice that the picture at 8 here, it is much more precise.
Look at the stars here, look at the text "liberté", look at the leaves here.
We still have something really more sharpened at F8 than we had at
2.8.
There is a gap that seems to me more emphasized, that's what I told you between the normal
and the macro.
Nevertheless, at 2.8, we still have no disgusting sharpness and that remains perfectly
acceptable.
We are a little more moldy, we see it here at the level of the stars, especially on the sides
elsewhere..
These are the sides that are a little bit off, but in the center, it maintains
something that is still quite comfortable.
And that obviously allows you to do things you usually can not do.
This allows you to make eyes.
Look at this eye there, it's still beautiful to get to do this
with a lens.
Another eye.
That's it, any object, now, is synonymous to make a picture a little different.
So here we see on macro examples.
Here is a tree..
It's a branch of a tree that ???. And I even tried insects.
And besides, when I did the test with insects, the autofocus reacted rather
well
All this is not bad anyway.
In any case, all this opens up a field of possibilities that is inaccessible to normal
lens.
We don't need to go ??? to make an eye with this lens.
And it's a creative goal that will allow you to do a lot of things.
However, you must be aware that you have in your hands a 122 mm
full-size equivalent that is located only a few centimeters from its target. 10 cm if you want
to be in ratio 1/1.
And obviously, you will get a depth of field that does not even reach the millimeter.
Suffice to say that we will have to be very precise in its development and we can understand
that in macro mode, autofocus often struggles to focus, since still once,
it is less than 1 mm.
So, the slightest shake, the slightest micro movements, you pass the focus and
your picture is blurred.
So, it's still very complicated.
So, with this lens, the XF 80, you can also come to pair with
the zoom multiplier 1.4 and 2.0.
So, I could not test it with TC 2.0, since I simply
don't have it.
But all the tests I did, when I had it, they were not very good.
With the TC 2.0, it often resulted in a loss of sharpness.
And often, an autofocus that was completely in strawberries in addition to an opening which is very
limited.
So, I did not do the test, but personally, I still have little doubt that it
would be the same here.
We will see the results right away with 1.4.
And when I see the results with the 1.4, I have no doubt with the 2.0.
It would not be very good.
In any case, coupled with the 1.4, the first information is that you know
you have a 112 mm F4 in your hands, a full-size equivalent of 171 mm.
So, still a telephoto lens With a long focal length.
This will allow you to reach a magnification ratio even higher than 1/1,
I think about 40% more.
The best sharpness, it seems to reach it rather to F11, in this case,
it is shifted..
We will be on an opening compared t if you don't have the multiplier.
I said that earlier, it was more of a flight, there, it is +1.
As the multiplier is +1, the sharpness also follows.
Despite everything, even with the multiplier, the sharpness remains very good.
Obviously, as I said earlier, the sharpness, it is always a little moult
at full opening when you put this teleconverter and it will progress slowly.
On the contrary, as you must be aware, when it is at F11, we begin to ask
clearly for light to come and exploit this multiplier
Especially since having a long focal length like that, you have the depth of field
that is even smaller.
So you still have to know what you are doing.
In conclusion, we have a great lens that is not lacking
assets.
And the wealth of the use are very numerous and we open a field
of possibilities at the level of the photo which is still really, a creative lens.
I'm sure people will enjoy using it.
Stabilization, it is unique, once again, for a fixed focal length at Fujifilm.
So, we have an excellent sharpness from the full opening, stabilization, autofocus
of a good level, but not exempt from defects.
A macre mode that is really nice, it is compatible with teleconverters,
it is still a sacred list of possibilities.
Remains, necessarily, a price that is still quite high, it is clearly a telephoto lens
able to do many things, but sold dearly by Fujifilm.
It is of an excellent standard, but probably not the best if you are looking for
to make portrait photos.
Blame it on an opening 2.8 which has just penalized him a little bit
in the bokeh.
Although, it is excellent for what it was made for, which means nature
and macro.
So, obviously, it's impossible to discourage such a lens.
I can only advise you, but with a T20 and XE3, it creates a set
that is sometimes a bit unbalanced.
And I will strongly recommend the use of a "Hand grip".
On an XT2, however, it is a good combination and its weight would be immediately forgotten
as soon as you have it in your hand..
The set is perfectly balanced, it is very pleasant to use it.
So, here, if I tried to do the test of the XF 80, just the XF 80 and
and didn't take in this test the care to compare it to this or that lens.
It will comes in another video.
In any case, if you look at this test, what would you like me to compare ? Tell me
in comment.
If some questions have not been answered in this test, tell me too.
Anyway, if you liked this video, give me a thumb up.
If you have questions or comments, I just told you.
Tell me what should I compare to it ?
Tell me if there are any questions that have not been answered, it just goes
below.
And if you land on the channel with this video, click on my face that just
appeared.
Click on the "subscribe" button. Just down, you have a small bell to be
notified of the next videos.
If you click on the bell, YouTube will let you know, otherwise YouTube will not tell you
even if you are subscribed.
Come on, all I have to do is to wish you a great day !
And see you soon on the channel ! Hello !
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