[Intro piano music plays]
Welcome to Get Thready With Me!
This is the YouTube show
where I try and sew a piece of clothing.. or two
from scratch and I take you all along with me for the ride.
Lately I've been learning how to draw my fashion ideas down
onto physical pieces of paper,
so that they're not just forever stuck up in my imagination
and then .. forgotten.
Because I think that I'm not very good at drawing
– well, cause I'm not –
but because of this drawing down my fashion designs
is something that I've avoided doing for years.
However something that really helped out in that regard were
these free fashion templates from Pret-A-Template.
All I gotta do is trace over the figure
and then I can draw my clothing designs down onto that figure.
This isn't sponsored, by the way
I've just been finding it a super useful way to teach myself how to
draw fashion designs.
So in today's video, I'm going to be trying to bring these two particular
designs of mine to life, which is 1:
This cute ruffly blouse
and 2: this dress.
To make both of them, I'm going to use second-hand fabric.
The dress' fabric is from a large bolt of second-hand fabric
that I inherited from my uncle, whereas I found the pink fabric for the blouse at
a thrift shop just a few weeks ago
actually I think this "fabric" was originally a baby's quilt cover…
so, I'm sorry if I'm ruining someone's precious childhood blanket...
No, but I'm actually using this because the fabric actually looks like it's
in pretty good condition, it doesn't look like it's been used at all
and I really liked the design on both sides of the blanket - one side has a pink
gingham, and the other, these cute botanical graphics on pink.
So what I first did was to rip out the stitches holding the two squares of fabric
together, through the opening here.
And I'm going to use this piece of fabric to make my blouse,
and I'll leave that pink gingham aside for another project.
So in this video I'm going to go through the process of how I make the blouse but
I made the dress in exactly the same way, the only thing that is different is the
length of the fabric that is used for the skirt compared to the ruffle
but I'll go through the difference between them when I get up to it in the tutorial.
So, let's get started!
The inspiration for this top came from a t-shirt that I recently thrifted,
two of them, in fact.
I managed to find this white and black t-shirt both in the same size and style
at my local Vinnies - I really like the loose-fitting top with this
ruffly sleeve design.
It's also a sleeve style that I've recently been seeing all over the place.
So I used all of these as inspiration for both a dress and a blouse that will both
fit me and that are both going to be constructed using identical sleeve
and bodice shapes.
So the first thing that I need to do is to turn this design into a paper pattern,
that I can use to cut out my fabric!
I used THIS slightly large, loose-fitting t-shirt as the base for my pattern design.
Using a basic piece of clothing whose style and fit you really like on you
can be a good first step in creating patterns for your own designs
and from there you can change and manipulate the pattern and fabric type
to create your own individual piece of clothing.
It's a technique that even professional fashion designers will often use!
To make the pattern, first I folded this basic t-shirt in half, like this,
and placed it down onto some pattern paper.
Then, using two taped-together pencils – this is a neat trick to quickly add seam
allowance to your pattern piece – I traced around the main bodice part of the t-shirt
ignoring the sleeves.
So I traced around the outsides of the t-shirt, and when I
got to the arm-hole seam, I placed my finger on top of this seam and I drew some
marks underneath, at the point where my finger was, which I then joined up into
one continuous line.
Also, I wanted to make the bodice-pattern high-waisted, or cropped,
so I alson shortened the length of the pattern here as well.
And after cutting it out of the paper, this is what this basic block
pattern looks like.
Now that I have my basic bodice piece, which I know will fit me well because
it's based off a nice, loose-fitting t-shirt, I am going to change certain
parts of it to give me the fit and style that I want.
So, compared to the original t-shirt, I wanted a design with a slightly wider
and lower neckline on both the front and back, a drop-shoulder, I also wanted it
to flare out a bit at the bottom of the bodice, and also to curve up
slightly towards the sides.
So, I taped the basic bodice pattern onto another piece of butcher's paper and
I made these adjustments onto the new paper.
So, I'm going to put two points here and here to make a wider, deeper neckline;
Down the side here is going to stay the same, because I want it to remain
about the same width or loose-ness as the t-shirt, I'm just making sure that the
line is totally straight so that this edge of the pattern can be placed on the fold
of my fabric.
For the drop-shoulder, I extended the shoulder seam line down to here,
which also means that I'm going to have to
change the shape of the armhole;
I actually made the armhole completely straight, because I'm going to be
attaching a straight rectangle piece (the gathered sleeve) to this armhole.
But because I don't want to change the overall width of the bodice, I brought
that armhole line back towards where the side-seam is going to be, and I also then
curved this line, just to make it more like an armhole and improve the fit a bit.
I also wanted the bodice to flare out a little bit at the bottom, so I made the
side-seam line flare out a bit from the original pattern,
AND finally I wanted a slightly curved hem for the top, so I made this line end
a little bit shorter than in the original pattern on this side and I drew a curved
line from the other side up to this point.
Importantly, I also made sure that both these angles were as close to
90-degree right-angles as possible.
So I drew down all the straight lines and then removed that old paper
pattern to add the new curved lines, onto my new pattern.
To create some of those curved lines on my new pattern, I used a French-ruler,
which is this curvy ruler here.
For some of the less curvy-curves, I just kinda eyeballed them when I drew them.
So this is going to be my final bodice pattern piece; and finally, I'm going to
add important pattern markers onto it – this is the double-headed arrow that
shows you how to place the pattern along the grainline of a woven fabric, or along
a stretch if you're using a stretchy fabric.
This line here shows you where the pattern needs to be placed on the fold of the
fabric, and I also drew the seam-allowance back in onto the pattern, using that
double-pencil trick, (although this time, I drew the seam allowance onto the inside
of that outer line I had already drawn on, because we already included the seam
allowance in the previous, older pattern)
This is just going to show me where I will need to stitch.
I made a couple of adjustments here and there, just because I thought I could
improve the fit a little bit…
And finally, I wrote down the label for this pattern piece, which is going to be
called the front and back bodice.
I'm going to cut 2 of these out of the fabric, on the fabrics fold, (both the
front and back will be identical) and they will make up the entire bodice piece.
Okay, so onto the sleeve ruffle pattern – this is a lot simpler!
I wanted the sleeve ruffle to be around 1 and a half times the width of the
sleeve opening, to allow for some nice gathers in the sleeve fabric.
So I simply drew down a rectangle that was 1.5 times the width of the sleeve opening,
so, the width of the sleeve opening on my pattern was about 7 inches and 3 quarters
so I made the sleeve pattern about 11 inches, 3 quarters wide.
(that makes it 1.5 times the width of the armhole opening)
And I wanted the sleeve on the final garment to be about 4 inches long,
so I made the rectangle 5 inches long, across here, because that will include
hemming and seam-allowance on both sides of the rectangle as well.
So, I drew out a rectangle that was 11 inches, 3 quarters wide and 5 inches long.
Because the actual top is going to be 3-dimensional and the sleeve is going
to be attached to an armhole circumference made out of TWO of these
bodice armhole openings, the sleeve rectangles that I need cut out will need
to be doubled in width; so I placed a marker down HERE, where the fabric
will be cut on the fold, to make this rectangle DOUBLE this width.
And because I have 2 arms, I need 2 sleeve ruffles, so I'm going to cut it out twice
so I added a X2 marker along with the label, reminding me that I need to
cut it out twice.
These are the two pattern pieces that I essentially need to get this started–
I'm also going to have to cut out some bias binding for the neckline and also a
rectangle that will create the ruffle on the top, or skirt on the dress;
but I won't be needing pattern pieces for these because they're very simple,
they're just going to be rectangles, and I can just cut them out from the fabric
later on.
Now it's time to use these pattern pieces to cut out the fabric!
I folded my fabric in half, and I set my bodice pattern piece on top, lined up the
straight edge with the fold of the fabric, and then cut around the pattern
using my rotary cutter.
Unfolded, I have this piece of fabric.
I repeated this, exactly the same to give myself 2 identical pieces of fabric,
and these 2 pieces will make up the FRONT and BACK of the bodice.
Then I cut out the sleeve ruffles, in the exact same way,
giving me these 2 matching rectangle pieces.
I'm going to be using bias binding to finish off the raw edges of the neckline,
and I'm going to make my own bias tape using the same fabric!
You'll notice that the bottom edge of the fabric already has some creases in it
But I'm going to use this already-creased fabric to my advantage, because
bias binding is, essentially, a long thin strip of fabric that has a
crease down the middle.
So I cut off this bottom piece of the fabric in a long thin strip
to use as bias binding for the neckline!
Bias tape is USUALLY cut on the diagonal of a woven fabric
to give it maximum stretch…
however I've cut mine along the grain of the fabric, because I don't have enough
fabric to cut it on the bias.
I think I cut it along the weft… but I always get warp and weft confused –
whichever is the direction that gives you the most stretch on a woven
(that is, non-stretchy fabric), well, that's the direction in how I've cut
my bias tape – and I usually find that this works out just fine!
For the ruffle on the very bottom of the blouse (or for the skirt on the dress)
I'm going to cut that out after I've already constructed the basic top part,
because the width of that piece is going to depend on how wide my top is.
To sew the top together, first I placed the front piece down, right-side up,
and then placed the back piece on top, right side down.
So, the two pieces are sandwiched right-sides-together.
Then I sewed them together at the shoulder seams.
Next step is attaching the bias binding around the neck hole that I just created.
So you'll remember that my bias tape already had a crease down the centre.
I made sure this crease would stay by giving it another iron.
I ironed that
lonnng strip in half lengthways, again.
Then, because I wanted the bias binding to be hidden on my neckline, I folded one
of the halves of this bias tape in half again, and I ironed another
crease into this.
So I now have two creases in the bias tape – one crease that divides the strip
into two, and one that divides it into quarters.
And a little note: I would have found this whole process a bit easier if I'd used
a slightly WIDER piece of fabric than this as my bias tape.
But that's something I can learn from to do in the future.
Anyway, to attach the bias tape to the neckline, I placed it along the
neckline's raw edge like this, right-sides together,
and next I'm going to sew it on, sewing directly ON the middle crease, like this.
And you'll notice that while I'm actually sewing it on here, I actually
didn't use any clips or sewing pins to hold the tape in place onto the neckline-
I actually find it easier to place the binding with my fingers as I go.
When I got back around to where I started, I held the two ends of the bias tape
together like this, and I carefully sewed up to juuust about where the two ends met.
Then, I sewed these two ends together with a straight stitch like THIS…
And I realised that I had JUST managed to not line the seam of the bias tape
up with the shoulder seam.
Damn it.
Oh well, practise makes perfect – next time I'll get closer, I'm sure!
Anyway, then I clipped off the extra bit of bias tape that was outside that seam.
I pressed the seam open, and then sewed over the
top of that open seam
until I got back to my first stitch, to finish sewing the tape into place.
So next, I'm going to understitch the bias tape.
To do that, I folded it up, making sure all the fabric of the tape was folded UP,
and then I'm going to go around the neckline again like THIS,
trying to stitch on top of the bias tape AS CLOSE to the seam as possible.
Then, the final step, is to fold the bias tape inside the top
so it can no longer be seen when it's flipped the right way around,
so it'll look something like this.
This is easier to see if I do it while the shirt is inside out, so,
I turned the shirt inside out, and folded the bias tape down inside the neckline,
on its middle crease, and then I also turned over the quarter crease,
to ensure there's no raw edges on the inside of the garment.
NOW you can see how tiny this is, and why I wish I'd started with a wider bias tape.
But, this will still work – the last step is to stitch all the way around
the inside of the neckline, stitching the bias tape in place, like this.
Again, I haven't pinned or clipped the bias tape in place because I find that
it's easier to fold the bias tape down onto the neckline as I go.
There's a lot more tips and tricks to attaching a bias binding that you can find
specifc tutorials on so I'll link some of my favourites down in the
description box below, but I just wanted to show you what works for me.
OKAY – now we have a pretty, finished neckline!
Next, I flipped the shirt inside-out again and then attached the front and back
bodice pieces at the sides, here and here.
Now to finish off all the raw edges and seams on the inside of the garment,
I'm going to either overlock these raw edges, or, on the curvy bits,
because I'm not good at overlocking on curves, I'm going to use a zig-zag stitch
over these raw edges.
So, if you don't have an overlocker, you can finish off your raw seams
and fabric edges by zig-zagging over them on a very short zig-zag stitch setting.
This is what zig-zagging over the edges looks like.
Next, I tried the top on to make sure it was all fitting okay – and it's all good!
Note that I haven't had to add a zipper or buttons, and that's because
I've intentionally made this garment quite loose-fitting!
Neither my finished blouse, or my dress, has a zipper.
So next we're going to add the ruffles around the sleeves and the bottom.
So, I'm going to put the top aside for a moment…
And for each sleeve ruffle piece, I'm going to follow the exact same steps.
So I'll just show you what I did for one of them.
First, I'm going to gather this top edge, by doing a long basting stitch along here.
To do this, I set my machine to its longest straight-stitch setting.
I made sure that the threads on the machine (before sewing) were left lonnng,
and then I placed the fabric underneath, and started sewing.
Now, when making gathers, you DON'T want to do any back stitch
at the start or the end of your stitching.
So, after I sewed a line of long straight stitches down that edge,
when I got to the end, I pulled the top and bottom threads out a little bit further, like this,
and then I cut them about 5 inches away from the fabric.
So I left the threads nice and long.
Then to gather the fabric, I pulled gently on the TOP thread like this…
and doing this creates gathers in the fabric.
So I pushed the gathers along the fabric like this, and then I repeated this.
And I did it on both ends to keep the gathers fairly even along the fabric.
I kept gathering the fabric more and more, until this rectangle piece was
reduced in length so that when it's folded in half, it's about the same length as the
bodice armhole, plus about 1 inch.
After spacing the gathers out roughly evenly along the sleeve piece,
I placed the gathered rectangle folded in half, so the two ends were pointing DOWN.
And then I sewed the gathered sleeve into a loop, by sewing a straight line HERE.
I finished off the raw edges by cutting off the excess fabric from the seam and
then overlocking this edge.
Then, to actually attach this piece, I first turned the shirt the right way around,
then – watch carefully because this can be a little confusing –
turned the sleeve around so the raw bottom edge was pointing towards the shirt,
and the seam of the sleeve was facing down.
Then I opened up the sleeve ruffle and placed it around the armhole opening,
like this.
Basically, I wanted to match up the ruffled edge and the raw edge of the
armhole opening, while also making sure that the seams on both pieces
matched up as well.
And then I used sewing clips to pin the sleeve on evenly around the armhole, and sewed it on
all the way around the armhole like THIS.
Here's a closer up look at where my stitches are going to go –
I am going to stitch the sleeve on just on the inside of the line of stitching
that created the ruffles, so that the long gathered stitch will get caught up inside
the seam and won't be seen on the outside of the garment.
Take your time sewing this, because it can be a little bit tricky!
And then when it's all turned the right way out….
It should look like this!
And then finally, I'm going to create a small hem around the bottom of the sleeve.
So, first I overlocked this raw edge – if you don't have an overlocker, you can
zig-zag stitch the edge, using basting scissors on the edge, or you can do
a rolled hem instead – and then I flipped the edge up about 1 inch inside
the sleeve, and sewed along here, all the way around the sleeve opening.
Also I don't really bother to pin when I'm hemming a fabric, I just eyeball it and
place it in the right spot as I go along.
Now, finally, we're up to the last step!
So this is where the top and the dress deviate – but the difference between them
is simply in the length of fabric that you add to the blouse part.
Both the ruffle on the top, and the skirt on the dress, use simple rectangles
that are 3 times the width of the top, when it's laid flat.
So the dress uses a rectangle piece of fabric that is
3 times the top part's width, and 18 inches long for my dress;
Whereas the top uses a rectangle piece of fabric that is
3 times the top part's width, but only 3.5 inches long.
So I'm just going to show you how I attached the ruffle onto the pink top,
but the process is exactly the same for attaching the skirt onto the dress.
So, I had this amount of pink fabric left over.
Which I chopped in half, making each half 3.5 inches along here
and then I measured out the width of the fabric that I wanted by just measuring
it along the bottom edge of the top part while it's laid flat.
So once, twice and I had to add another third part because I was working
with reminants... so...
3!
I simply attached these 2 rectangle pieces together by placing one on top
of the other, right sides together, and sewing a straight stitch down here.
So now I have a long, thin rectangle, that's 3.5 inches long and approximately
1...
2...
3 times the width of the bottom of the shirt.
And this is attached in essentially, the exact same way as how
we attached the sleeve, so I'll run through it really quickly.
The only thing I did different was that I hemmed the rectangle of fabric first –
but it doesn't really matter what order you do it in, unless the ruffle
is really, really tiny, then you might want to hem it first.
So after I hemmed I then I gathered the opposite edge of the fabric,
reducing it down in size to 2 times the width of the shirt…
OR, when folded over, it's about the same width!
I did a straight stitch down the two ends of the rectangle,
to attach them together and make the gathered fabric into a loop…
And then I turned the top the right way around, making sure the gathered piece
of fabric was turned the wrong way around, and I placed the gathered piece around the
bottom edge of the top like this, so that the raw edge and the gathered edge met up.
And then I clipped the gathered piece on evenly all the way around, and sewed it on
just like I did for the sleeves.
And then I finished off the raw edges of the seam with an overlocker,
and turned it all the right way around… and it looks like this!
So now let's have another look at the finished pieces, and I'm also going to
show you how I like to style them!
[music plays]
The pastel pink colour of the top look really nice when paired with a
darker colour, like these jeans.
The jeans also stop my outfit from looking
totally like a 5 year old at a birthday party.
Which, is a fine aesthetic to have, for sure, but it's not what I was going for.
At the moment I'm really enjoying styling this dress with a very loose fitting shirt
that's the same length as the dress.
It gives the dress an outfit a kinda 80's feel and it's VERY comfortable -
seriously, aside from like, just wearing my pyjamas, this dress is the comfiest
piece of clothing that I own.
So, I really hope you enjoyed this video, and enjoyed watching my process from
inspiration, to design, to pattern, to construction, to finished garment.
And these two pieces are actually something I've been wearing ALL the time,
particularly the dress.
The dress is a perfect everyday piece.
However I would like to make the dress out of these fabric patterns as well,
I might just order some custom fabric to make another dress with.
And if you would like to see the process of me ordering some custom fabric to make
a design out of, let me know!
Or also if you would like a more in depth tutorial of how I draw down and digitise
my patterns, let me know if you'd like to see that as well.
So this was a MASSIVE video to complete, it involved many, many, MANY hours of
sewing and filming and editing so if you're actually seeing this, WE DID IT!
Thank you for all being patient with me when there's gaps of a few weeks between
uploads - I'm actually doing pretty well with my health and chronic illness
management right now...
I know some people start to worry when I haven't uploaded for
a while - I've had some worried comments and messages, which is so dang sweet -
but it's actually the fact that I'm doing so well right now that is actually the
most time consuming thing.
The amount of physio, and rehabilitation that I've been
doing right now to maintain an ok level of health and minimise my chronic pain
just... it's a lot, and it's super, SUPER exhausting!
Shout out to all my other chronic illness warriors how are taking any kind of steps
to improve their health, because it is TIRING.
But, hooray for relatively ok health!
Also my next video out, my next tutorial video at least, should be a review on
these "embroiderly pens"... and you'll see why I've done little "air quotes"
for that in my video on it... yeah...
[whispering] It's not good.
Thank you for watching, thank you so much to all of my supporters on Patreon and
for those people who have donated on Ko-Fi, or supported my merchandise...
Seriously, I could not do what I do without your financial support, so from
the bottom of my heart, thank you SO much.
Also if you been missing some regular Annika in your life, me, and Giovanni...
Luci: [Singing] Annika: who always has to make an entrance
Luci: [Singing] Annika: Stop, STOP!
Tell everyone about
Annika: our podcast
Luci: Yeah, we've got a podcast Annika: We have a podcast!
Luci: It's a good one, it's called Watch, Read, Listen.
Luci: You can find it in the iTunes store.
Here it is, is this where the thing will
Luci: be?
Annika: I dunno, maybe on this side.
Luci: Here it is...
Annika: You just don't point!
Luci: It's a podcast, you can listen to it, get it in your ear holes.
Annika: Alright, get out of here.
Luci: No tell them what it is, briefly...
Annika: Ok, what is it?
Luci: Ok, it's a podcast where we just talk about the things we've been
Luci: watching, and reading and listening to throughout the week.
Annika: Also we just kinda chat.
Luci: We chat!
We shoot the breeze!
Luci: In the way that we're apparently not allowed to right now...
Annika: No, cause videos are quick!
And edited!
And our podcast is much more
Annika: like long and rambling... but in a good way.
Luci: [singing]
So, yeah, I think that's it!
And I will see you guys next time.
Why did I do that?
I don't know!
I have been filming for a LONG time!
Ok bye!
You can now support me via a one off contribution by visiting my Ko-Fi page
at ko-fi.com/annikavictoria
You can also support me on an ongoing basis and get access to exclusive content
by becoming a supporter on Patreon, go to patreon.com/annikavictoria to learn how!
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