Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette!
In today's video, we'll be discussing the definitions and broad categories of striped
patterns and a comprehensive list of stripes in menswear.
This video will be the first in a two-part series on stripes.
In the meantime, you can check out our comprehensive article on stripes, here.
So before we get into anything specific, let's answer the question, when it comes to patterns,
why choose stripes?
As you may well know, adding patterns into your garments adds a little bit more visual
interest than simply going with solids.
Still, because men typically want to project a serious business-like demeanor when wearing
tailored clothes, the patterns that are most often worn are those based on the simple geometry
of the line.
One of these pattern styles is checks.
We covered a list of different checks in menswear in a previous article which you can check
out here and the other pattern style is stripes which we'll be covering in this video series
as well as our corresponding article.
The great thing about these two pattern styles is that they can create more visual interests
than simple solids while still ultimately looking formal, however, there is always a
risk of making them on the bold side.
So a bit more specifically, what are stripes?
It seems like a bit of an obvious question and it does have a somewhat obvious answer.
Simply put, stripes are a series of parallel lines that do not cross each other.
Stripes are found in a variety of orientations in classic menswear typically suits and shirts
have vertical stripes although horizontally striped garments do exist.
We have a previous article on horizontally striped shirts which you can check out here.
Because of the lack of interaction between lines, stripes are a simpler pattern than
checks, therefore, they are slightly more formal even when compared in similar garments.
Before we get into each specific type of stripe, let's cover some broad terminology first.
The following terms can cover multiple different types of stripes.
The first broad category is a self-stripe.
A self-stripe is one that is integral to the weave meaning that it's not printed on the
fabric or otherwise added later.
Seersucker is an example of a self-stripe.
We'll be talking more about seersucker later on.
The next broad category is the warp stripe.
Warp stripes are created by changing the color or increasing
the quantity of warp yarns in a garment.
More simply put, warp yarns are the vertical yarns in a garment.
The next broad category is weft stripes.
These are created by changing the horizontal yarns in a garment and as you might imagine,
they're a little bit less common in menswear than warp stripes but they do exist.
Next up are balanced stripes.
These are symmetrically patterned meaning that the width of the stripe and the width
of the background is equal.
These are often found on shirts and Bengal stripes are an example.
As you might imagine, if we have balanced stripes, we also have unbalanced stripes.
These are stripes that are not equal in width to the background or stripes that are not
spaced evenly on a garment.
Pin stripes are an example of an unbalanced stripe because the stripe itself is much narrower
than the corresponding background.
Next up is the term fancy stripes.
You may see this in various places.
Basically, all it is is industry jargon for a type of stripe that doesn't fit into any
other broad category or definition.
Jermyn stripes rather than being a specific type of stripe is also a general term referring
to the types of stripes favored by shirt makers on or around Jermyn Street in London.
Therefore, Jermyn stripes may describe any other sort of striped style including candy
stripes, Bengal stripes, etc.
One note here, the only two terms that we've covered so far that are mutually exclusive
are warp stripes and weft stripes.
Phrased another way, a garment can have either warp stripes or weft stripes but not both.
If it did have both horizontal and vertical stripes, that would necessarily mean that
a check pattern would then be created on the garment.
Now that we've got our broad categories out of the way, we can start getting into all
of the different specific types of stripes.
We'll start with balanced stripes and go first with simple two-tone stripes in order from
narrowest to widest.
First up are Bengal stripes.
They're a two color vertical pattern with the stripe and the background being of equal
width.
This striped fabric was originally shipped to markets around the world from Bengal, India
now Calcutta.
The term is used to describe shirt stripes but never suit stripes.
Next up are candy stripes.
These are also equal with stripes of white and one other color used on fabrics for shirts
and other sports wear.
This stripe gets its name because it reminds many people of a candy cane.
It's a little bit broader than a Bengal stripe.
By the way, don't worry about all of these size comparisons, if you get confused at any
point, just check out our related article and it will all be there for you in writing.
Next up is another stripe with a food-related name, sandwich stripes.
These are bold vertical stripes typically about half an inch wide.
Sandwich stripes are used to describe sports jackets, pants, and outerwear but never shirts.
Regency stripes are vertical stripes of equal width usually associated in a historical context
with Regency England.
Like Bengal stripes or candy stripes, regency stripes are typically white alternating with
one other color, however, the difference here is that Regency stripes can be quite wide,
sometimes up to an inch or more in width,
Next are awning stripes also called Cabana stripes.
These are bold vertical stripes that remind most people of the type of fabric used for
awnings or outdoor furniture.
They're very wide and for that reason, they're never used to describe shirt stripes as they
would probably be too bold a pattern.
Finally in this subcategory are prison stripes or convict stripes.
As you might imagine, this pattern refers to broad black and white horizontal stripes.
The pattern was originally designed in the mid 18th century designed with the goal of
making escaped prisoners immediately visible when they were being chased.
The use of the pattern waned by the mid 20th century and it's been replaced now in most
contexts, at least in prisons, with solid colored jumpsuits.
However, you might still see the pattern on non prison related garments in some contexts.
Our next subcategory are all still balanced stripes, however in this case, they're either
going to be multicolored or textured in some fashion.
We'll start this subcategory with rugby stripes.
Rugby stripes are horizontal stripes similar in width to prison stripes or awning stripes.
they're typically found on more informal men's shirts especially rugby shirts.
In this context.
the colors displayed on the shirts would obviously be the team colors of various rugby teams.
rugby stripes are common in one color and in white or in two alternating colors which
is why we've put them in this subcategory.
sometimes the multicolored versions will also be accented with a thinner white stripe meaning
in that case that they'd be unbalanced stripes.
Next up are track stripes also called alternating stripes or variegated stripes.
basically what all of these terms mean is that even if the color of the background stays
the same the color of the stripes themselves does not.
track stripes are frequently used in shirts.
sometimes you'll see them accented further with single threads of another color such
as black acting as a sort of outline.
in these cases, they would then also be unbalanced stripes.
Next up in this subcategory is seersucker which in addition to being a sort of striped
pattern also refers to the fabric.
most often made of cotton seersucker launders easily requires no ironing and masks wrinkles.
all of these things mean that seersucker is an ideal fabric for summer garments.
Finally in this subcategory is another type of striped fabric called hickory stripe or
railroad stripe.
It's an offshoot of seersucker. this fabric originally came about in the late 19th century.
it's a type of heavyweight dark blue and white seersucker and was most typically used to
construct garments for railroad workers such as hats overalls coats or pants.
Okay now we've covered all of the different types of balance stripes so let's get into
unbalanced stripes.
As before we'll start with the simple two-tone stripes working from narrowest to widest.
First up here are hairline stripes.
they're very narrow stripes about the width of a hair achieved by weaving single threads
of a different color into a background.
hairline stripes are typically used in fabrics for men's shirts neck wear and other apparel.
they don't usually describe suit stripes as often.
Next up are pinstripes also sometimes called banker stripes.
these two are thin stripes usually about the width of a pin meaning that they're about
1/16 of an inch wide or less.
pencil stripes also called dress stripes are another type of find stripe usually used for
suits.
they're constructed of two or three warp yarns those are vertical yarns and as such they're
about 1/16 of an inch wide just wider than a pinstripe.
these stripes get their name because they're roughly the same width as a carpenter's pencil
mark.
they can be in colors that either contrast or blend with the background color.
next up are chalk stripes also a pattern typically used in suiting and they get their name because
they're roughly the same width as a tailors chalk line.
while this term was historically used to refer specifically to white or off-white stripes
on a contrasting dark background the term is now used a little bit more generally to
just refer to the style or size of the stripe. as such chalk stripes can now be found in
almost any color but they're always wider than both a pinstripe and a pencil stripe.
you'll never see this term used to apply to shirt fabrics but only
to suit fabrics and other outerwear.
next up are double stripes triple stripes etc. basically this is kind of a general term
just meaning that you'll have different kinds of narrows stripes be they pinstripes pencil
stripes and so on that are grouped together in groups of two three etc.
next up are multi track stripes which is a pattern that refers to stripes of either different
spacing different stripe width or both grouped together in various combinations.
you'll often see them in shirts but because they're a little more avant-garde you won't
see them in a lot of other types of garments.
next let's get into multicolored unbalanced stripes starting with blazer stripes.
blazer stripes are wide vertical stripes usually used to describe the kind you would find on
traditional school or teen Blazers especially in England.
they almost always refer to jackets and never to shirts.
next up are shadow stripes.
these are vertical stripes usually narrow that are bracketed or shadowed by stripes
that are either lighter or thinner.
the classic shadow stripe features shadows that are variations on the main color, however,
more modern styles of shadow stripe can feature shadows that are in any contrasting color.
the same term can alternately refer to a type of fabric where the contrasting stripes are
created by twisting the yarns of a garment in the opposite direction.
as such these types of shadow stripes can only be seen in certain lighting conditions.
as you might already be aware we have a wide selection of shadow striped socks in the Fort
Belvedere shop you can check those out here.
a subcategory of shadow stripes are bar stripes where the shadowing stripes symmetrically
flanked both sides of the main stripe and there can also be multiple shadows to the
same stripe.
next up are halo stripes these are a type that you'll often see on suits.
they look as though the main stripe is actually the same color as the background and is surrounded
by stripes of a contrasting color usually brighter that provide a sort of halo effect.
next up is a fairly significant and common type regimental stripes also called Battalion
stripes.
these are stripes in colors that were traditionally associated with various English military regiments
that were then warmed by the officers as they came back and dressed in civilian clothes.
in addition to authentic regimental stripes which are still worn the pattern can more
generally refer to similar styles of stripes that don't have a military connotation.
they can be worn by civilians in both England and the United States and of course elsewhere
around the world.
here's an interesting bit of trivia for you Englishmen typically wear their regimental
stripe ties so that the stripe slants from the left shoulder down to the right conversely
Americans wear their regimental stripes so that they go in the opposite direction from
the right shoulder down to the left.
this style of pattern became particularly popular in England following the First World
War and then spread to America shortly thereafter it got quite a boost when Edward the eighth
then the Prince of Wales and who would later become King and then the Duke of Windsor wore
this kind of tie to the United States when he visited in 1919.
next are collegiate stripes also called club stripes.
these are contrasting stripes of a bright and dark color and they're particularly popular
in gray yellow red or grey green blue combinations.
Roman stripes also called rainbow stripes are bright stripes in groups of contrasting
color they typically run vertically on the warp yarns and you might sometimes see them
in modern styled shirts although you will see them used for neckties as well.
Ombre stripes as the name would suggest are stripes that typically incorporate the effect
of an ombre or a shaded gradient.
you'll typically see this gradient within the stripe itself as opposed to the background.
Our next subcategory is textured unbalanced stripes.
With these, we'll start with broken stripes.
Broken stripes are a pattern typically used for suit fabric.
you'll see that the stripes are not solid but rather made up of a series of aligned
dashes.
satin stripes are a pattern of alternating shiny and matte stripes that are created by
the way the fabric is woven. these are particularly popular for dress shirts made of fine cotton.
a satin stripe may refer to any color or width of stripe but it most typically refers to
a solid color stripe with a contrasting weave.
next up are morning stripes also called cashmere stripes or in some circumstances sponge bag.
while there are numerous variations of striped or otherwise patterned trousers for formal
day wear also referred to as morning dress, the most classic and standard example is that
of the morning stripe or cashmere stripe.
finally in this subcategory are ticking stripes which refer to any of several simple vertical
striped patterns usually in black and white or blue and white that resemble mattress ticking.
these patterns are particularly popular for shirt fabrics and you'll also sometimes see
them in denim or other canvas fabrics.
finally today we do have a couple of honorable mentions that don't necessarily fit into any
of the previous categories we've provided but we felt that we ought to mention them
here.
the first of these are madras stripes while the pattern known as madras usually features
a checked grid or otherwise geometric design you will occasionally see among the patchwork
of patterns some stripes. in these cases those stripes among the madras can be referred to
on their own as madras stripes.
next up is wallpaper print this is a pattern that features a strong vertical emphasis either
a stylized stripe or simply a more vertical orientation of different pattern objects.
next up are mille stripes these are featured on a type of finely striped fabric that looks
like a solid from a distance.
this term refers exclusively to shirt fabrics as it's a little too fine to really be used
properly in conjunction with suit fabrics.
finally we've got another type of fabric end on end this is constructed so that the individual
warp or vertical yarns alternate color.
it's a very fine stripe.
alright there we go that concludes our fairly exhaustive list of all the various types of
stripes in menswear.
did you stay with us? if not remember that you can always check out the Related article
or just go back to various points in the video if there's something you want to brush up
on again.
in conclusion stripes are a very versatile pattern style.
they can be featured in casual orientations that evoke a sporting or Club heritage but
they can also be right at home in more formal garments.
you'll see them on things worn by everybody from bankers to resort goers this wide range
of possibilities speaks very well to the versatility of stripes as they can very easily be dressed
up or down using different garments in your wardrobe.
this begs the question however what's the best way to incorporate stripes into your
wardrobe? we'll give the answer to that question in part two of this video series so stay tuned
for that coming soon.
in the meantime tell us how you'd suggest to wear stripes in the comment section below.
in today's video you'll notice I'm wearing two different kinds of stripes we'll get to
those in a moment.
the jacket I'm wearing is a blazer it's Navy and double-breasted and has gold colored buttons
presumably in brass therefore it's a relatively traditionally styled blazer the shirt is from
Charles Tyrwhitt and features stripes in white and light blue at first glance it might be
tempting to call it a bengal stripe but upon closer inspection you'll see that the light
blue stripes are actually a little bit wider than the white stripes because it's unbalanced
we would most properly call this type of stripe a pencil stripe the tie is also vintage and
features alternating stripes in maroon and gold it's not quite as complicated as a regimental
or battalion stripe would be so more simply we'd probably refer to it as a club stripe
as usual most of my accessories today come from Fort Belvedere the collar clip is brass
and plated in yellow gold the cufflinks feature a knotted monkey's fist design they're sterling
silver and also plated in gold and I wore them today to tie in to the sort of naval
theme I've got going with the blazer my final Fort Belvedere accessory today is the pocket
square it's light blue linen and features a hand rolled yellow X stitch all of the Fort
Belvedere accessories I'm wearing today are available in our shop and you can check them
out here my trousers are simple flat-fronted slacks in a khaki color that would probably
be more accurately described as stone my socks are in a matching color or at least nearly
so and my shoes which you've seen before are dark ox blood penny loafers.
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