Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day and welcome to a new
series of tutorials I'm running for the Panasonic Lumix Bridge camera range
no it's so ideal for anyone with the FZ200 all the way up to the FZ
2500 it's going to be more of a hands-on experience rather than a technical
aspect so I'm going to show you how I'm going to be sitting up for taking things
like landscapes portraits and macro work and I hopefully will be able to go out
and do some of this photography for your outdoors today unfortunately it's
pouring down as usual in the UK we've had some heavy snow showers recently and
the game very overcast so it's prevented me from going out plus the fact I'm only
just getting over from a heavy chest impaction
so hopefully that's not going to detract from the audio intelligence in this
video now in this first video I'm going to be shooting indoors like when we're
setting up to shoot some flower portraits now this technique is
applicable if you want to do some macro photography or product photography it is
the same sort of setup first of all I'm going to set up my F set three hundred
three thirty back to camera default and then showing the settings that I
normally put in the camera so if you're following along with the series if I
need to select menu option then if you've got the same settings then you'll
find them in exactly the same place these cameras are so programmable that
if you change some of the menu options if I select a menu option and you can't
find it then it's because you've got a setup that's different to the way that
I've set mine up so I'm going to first of all set this camera back to default
and then dial in some of the things that I would normally have on this camera and
then you can see the results that we get from the video now this particular video
is all around plant portraiture I like taking pictures of flowers outdoors
it's a specialist technique and an expert by any means in this field but I
do like to capture flowers and insects in this sort of mode I've learned some
techniques over the years and I'm hopefully going to pass some
those techniques onto in this video so we're not going to use any special
lighting techniques I'm just going to use the ambient daylight and at the
moment it is very very dull light but that won't preclude us from taking some
good pictures indoors we can see my set up here in the conservator to take this
flower portrait I've got the offset 300 330 on a tripod and I've got my I said
2000 2500 which is no film in the sequence so first of all we're going to
reset the F set 300 back to the camera default and to do that we need to go
into the Tools menu or that's going to be the spanner wrench icon know the
facility we need is the camera reset now a quick tip here if you want to change
the page numbers very quickly you can use the zoom lever to go backwards in
the menu or forwards in the menu and the one we want is reset and you'll find
that on page 5 of 6 so the top of the menu there you can see reset now we're
going to complete the reset the camera so press menu set and that will now take
us into a submenu there are three setups that we need to clear so we answer yes
to the first one we answer yes again and then finally for all the custom setups
which are the ones you've probably setup if you were messing around with the
camera so you would finally say yes to that menu option another cameras back to
the factory default so we now need to set it up to the way that we want to
actually shoot with this particular camera now these are only my
recommendations their particular setups that I use for my general photography
you may want to customize these once you get a feel for how the menu works but if
you all follow along with the way that I set up my camera then if I do make any
changes in menus we'll all be having the same menu options showing and that won't
be confusing in future videos so the first thing I want to do is set up my
photo styles and they're in the camera icon on the first page so here we see
the camera icon and that gives us access to these photo styles now the photo
styles only apply to images that are shot in JPEG mode they don't affect any
of the RAW images if you shoot in Romo but I like to shoot in the JPEG mode I
really don't have enough time to process every single image in the raw mode I've
developed a workflow where I use my JPEGs for most of my applications if
there is a specific shot that I feel I'm gonna get better than the camera can
achieve then I would shoot JPEG plus raw and then see if I can modify that raw
file to better results but in 95 or 100 percent of the cases I'll be using JPEG
for all the work that I shoot and show here on my youtube channel or angry in
my photographic blog so the first thing there's a photo style I like to change
the way that this operates in terms of you can set the sharpness and noise
reduction now the camera tends to be a little bit aggressive in the way that it
applies sharpening and noise reduction straight out of factory default so you
can tend to get some sharpening artifacts even with a default setting of
zero so what I like to do is just take that back to the minus two position and
it's the same with noise reduction now the way that Panasonic implement noise
reduction is to apply a small amount of blur to the image now that blur gets rid
of any of the fine detail that might be in the image
so what I like to do is turn off noise reduction all the way to minus five then
I can use my editing program to apply the amount of sharpening and any of the
noise reduction that I might need in that image so I'm going to such at minus
five when you've done that just press menu sets and that will bring you back
to the main menu now the aspect ratio will depend on the
type of pictures you're taking and I'm not going to set up to any particular
one for a default value and I just changed that as I need to now for this
shot we're going to be taken to the flower portraits I tend to shoot these
in a square format as most the objects are square so I'm gonna set a one-to-one
profile picture size Lee got up that largest size and quality leave that fine
JPEG with the AFF and AFS I would leave that set to AFS with the single area
mode metering mode you can leave that to a whole area scrolling through
self-timer we're going to use self timer but we only need two seconds
and we leave all the other digital announcements off so I dynamic
high-resolution highlight and shadow you can leave those off shuttered site you
can change that to a shutter if you wanted to because we're shooting on a
tripod and there's no going to be any subject movement so I'm gonna leave that
to manual shutter in this instance ISO increments I want to use 1/3 because I
want to get some finer control diffraction compensation again just
apply some extra sharpening to your JPEG images once you start to get towards the
f6 point 1 to f8 aperture you can change that if you want unlit put it to auto or
you can leave it off and do any adjustments they need in your post
editing leave all the digital zoom and I zooms off for this particular shot
default color space is fine srgb stabilizer we're going to turn off
because we're on a tripod but in general production if you're not going to be
using tripod you need to you leave that on we don't need any face recognition
and that brings us back to the first page the other things I like to change
are in the custom setup and if we just quickly scroll through those we need to
come down to guideline I like to set that into the rule of thirds so it gives
me an indication of whether my camera is vertical or horizontal if I wanted to
shoot landscapes make sure we've got a straight horizon center marker highlight
turn off constant preview you can turn that on because then that gives you a
preview of the amount of depth of field that you've got in your image exposure
meter you can leave that sat on dial guide that's an indication of what the
particular dials will do okay so that's the camera set back to the factory
defaults and then set up to a couple of recommendations I make to enable you to
get better images out of the camera so we're going to set up to take this plant
portrait you can see it's a yellow plant so I chosen that blue background
the color compliment to give some interest into the picture you know you
can either shoot the plant with its container or you can shoot if you like a
head and shoulder portrait of it so what I'm going to do is zoom in with the
camera so that I've got just the head of the flower I'm just going to adjust the
tripod so we got the image lined up to where we need it like so now that we set
the composition that we want by changing the focal length of the lens and moving
the tripod accepted to give us the particular composition we need we need
to look at the shooting parameters you can see that I've set up for aperture
priority and most of my work I will shoot in aperture priority mode we've
also seen we've now got the standard PolarStar selected with the fact we've
got a petition there of a change to the sharpness and noise reduction that's why
the little plus sign is appearing on the standard icon now we want to change the
way the camera focuses at the moment it's set for the whole area method and I
want to change that so we've got just got one point which is going to
determine the focus and we can do that by using the direct focus method using
the back person dial and it's this one that's got the cross shaped icon on the
button so when I depress that it brings us up to the AF mode selection and then
I can cursor along until I get the one area method now if I wanted to change
the position and size of it we use the down arrow key so if I press down it
allows us to change both the size and the position of the target now if use
the top control dial we can change it to a small target or we can change it to a
larger target I'm going to set that known to a small target and it allows us
to change the position of the focus target once we set that to where we want
that your principal point of folks to be just press menu set and that will bring
us back now once we've set that particular size we can actually use our
finger on Green to change the focus point to what
we want it for this particular image but the size will stay the same
unless you change it with a menu option so now we set where the focus point will
be when we have to press the shutter button the camera will focus on that
point and you'll get a confirmation of that focus with a solid green icon and a
beep from the camera so they can see we've got a focus point and you'll see
the camera locks on focus and gives us a confirmation by that green icon and the
beep from the camera now in terms of what upper to use remember
aperture determines the amount of depth of field that's the amount of focus
between the front and the back of your subject so foreground to background
distance the amount of focus is set by your aperture now if you're shooting
outdoors it might be the case that you want to set a very shallow depth of
field so that the plant is isolated against this background you don't want
the background to be competing in your image so you can use a longer zoom lens
setting and a wider aperture to throw that background wildly out of focus here
in the studio where I've got a simple plain background I just want the Frog
round to be show up and we can afford to leave the back of the plant slightly out
of focus if we wanted to had that little bit of interest to the foreground so by
using an aperture of f28 that will give us a nice shallow depth of field wanted
a little bit more I'm going to step through until I get to around f/4 know
by using f/4 I found this to be the sweet spot of the F said 300 330 lens at
that point the center shot and the corners are sharp really with flower
photography doesn't matter if the corners are unsharp it sometimes helps
to focus the eye down into the center of the image if the outside area is
slightly able to focus as well but for this particular demonstration I want to
try and capture the image with complete sharpness now we set the camera to
second timer up in the menus but to access the drive mode we need to use the
bottom cursor button to allow us to switch over to the self timer mode so
perfect to the right Cecily to the drive mode for the self
timer press menu set and you can now see on screen we've got the two second timer
now with the F set 300 330 at that time we will stay enabled until you change it
back to single mode with us at 200 and fortunate each time you change it to a
self-timer mode it will cancel at the end of every exposure and got to
remember to reset it so by using that two second timer I'm going to take this
first image notice that you just on the table and no other set up you can see my
exposure is as the camera set it so there's no exposure compensation the
camera is just determining the exposure directly from the way that it's metering
the scene so we're going to take that first picture and we can have a look at
that in the video you can see that it's fairly sharp from foreground to
background and all overall it's quite a nice picture now
what I'm gonna do now is to move in my reflector onto the right-hand side of
the image and that will help to soften down any of the shadows that are on the
right hand side we've got nice definition on the left hand side coming
from the window light but we might want to just pick up the outline from the
back of this fly by using the reflector on the right hand side so I'm just going
to move that into position I'll move in this cardboard reflects it to the
right-hand side you can see on screen that it's brought in the lighting to the
right-hand side two PI's those shadows this is just a piece of white card if
you wanted a stronger reflection then you could actually use kitchen foil
you're going to use kitchen foil that's better to crumple it up and then stick
it onto your board again that crumpled surface gives a better reflective
quality than the play foil as that played for chance to give you two sharp
and contrast the image but if you've got the crumpled an aluminium foil that will
give you a better result so hopefully you can see on the image there that
we've got fill of the shadows on the right hand side so we'll take that shot
again and you can see that we've got more fill of those shadows on the right
hand side now that's the basic technique for how I would take a flower portrait
again you choose a background to complement your particularly
so I'm gonna change over now to another flower and we couldn't take another port
I'm looking have a look at that again in the editing how we can manipulate this
to give us our final result now for the second shot I've actually included this
will appear near in a jar and we're going to take a complete picture of the
container and the flower itself so I just load a tripod up a little bit to
get into the center of the image we don't want to be shooting looking down
onto it so the camera is at the center point of
the image again I'm using aperture priority mode I've set to half for this
particular exposures give me one 80th of a second in that first sequence of
images I use the camera using auto ISO and by looking at the exif I can see
that it shot at ISO 100 which is exactly what I want for all my shots I'll use
ISO 100 very rarely will I use 200 or 400 as that tend to do introduced
there's a bit of noise into the image in most situations you can get away with
the lost shutter speed because of the optical image stabilization or if you
can't try and get the camera onto some stable surface you lean against
something or your hands underneath the camera on a wall or something like that
to stabilize the camera but generally I tend to use ISO 100 but every single
shot that I take with the smaller sensor cameras so I've no set iso 100 by using
the ISO button on the forward navigation and set the camera to ISO 100 also
notice I've set my increments of the aperture to be in one third stop so each
click of the back control dial changes my aperture by one third of a stop so
I've set back to f/4 again using the single area auto focus I can use the
left hand navigation button and then down to the area so I can change its
position or I can use the touch screen to set the point of focus so again I
want to be on the front surface of the flower to make sure that I get the
amount of depth of field again using the two second self timer to take the
picture
you can see we've got a nice picture though the shadows from the light
falling on the left-hand side of the image are being canceled out by the
reflector on to the right-hand side and we've got some good definition of
highlights on that glass to show that it's it's a spherical surface we can
actually see the highlights on the left-hand side and the right-hand side
so the jaw is defined by our lighting well this is an extension to the today's
program where we're going to edit one of those images I'm using a program called
smart photo editor and smart photo editor has been developed by a company
called and tropics and you can find more details of this at their website which
you can see on screen at the moment which is smart photo editor dot-com in
the UK it's $19.99 but if you look at the website there is a 10% discount to
the moment so you can get that for $17.99 I'm going to open up one of those
images that we shot today use file open go to my memory card link and I pick the
image where we had the reflector in place so I'm going to bring that image
into the editor program so that's the image from the camera that we saw we've
got basic adjustments we can make to the image by using the image treatment
button on the right hand side and you can see we bring up a whole dialog of
display items we can use here who can you expose your brightness highlights
shadows clarity saturation etc I'm just going to bring up the clarity little bit
too defying the edges of that image on just brought the clarity a little bit
I thought the shadows are little dark still I could just bring those up a
little bit like so now remember in the basic Potter style setup I have noise
reduction down to minus 5 and sharpening down to minus 2 so I'm just going to
apply a little bit more sharpening to this image and to do that we use the
area treatment once you click area treatment it brings up another set of
controls and by default you are using the whole of the image but you can
actually use a mask if you wanted to you actually make a mask to outline the
areas that you wanted to apply sharpening - but I'm gonna apply it
globally as the background is playing and it won't to suffer in any way so I'm
just gonna add a little bit of sharpening you got too much obviously
you'll see the halos and sharpen out of axe but that's a little bit too strong
I'm just going to back that off a little bit to about there now I'm happy with
that image I'm going to apply an overlay to it and this program is fantastic
for those overlay techniques you go up to the right hand side you've got the
effects gallery click that and it brings in a whole list of effects there are
five hundred and eight pages at the moment and all these have been generated
by our user community so once you get into the hang of using the editor down
here there's an effect editor program which allows you to create your own
effects but for this program we're gonna look at using one of the artistic mode
so you can use watercolor oil sink pencil crayon you can select any one you
like so if you go to water color it will then refine those down to the effects
that have been designated as watercolor there's one I want to use in this
particular image and it's one that I've used before
it's called Selina drained now for bring that in you can see that it totally
desaturates the image but what's this nice blue background now if I didn't
want this effect to apply to the actual plant itself I just wanted that
background from that image and the desaturation and the stems I'm going to
apply a mask and to do that we use the mask area so clicking on mask area
brings up a whole new dialog which allows me to define the mask now you can
use a hard edge or a soft edge or you can use a brush so I'm going to use the
hard edge first of all and when you first of all click into the image you
can get the mask display options and I tend to use the black one so it allows
them to see where I'm actually put in the mask up here you've got two controls
which is size of the brush and the actual detector size within the middle
of that so you can change the size of the detector to a slightly larger one
like so now I can go around the outside of the image I'm going to do this fairly
quickly so it doesn't take too much time and
editing I'll go Rome first of all quite quickly round the outside edge you can
see this works quite well I would like some of the other photo style editors to
work the same way such as Photoshop this is fantastic as a quick way of getting
around and applying a mask so we'll go around the outside of the flower I'll
change the brush size in a moment to go into the smaller areas so keeping the
inner circle away from the outside edge allows it to trace around the outside
for the emission I don't want to go over the glass I want to keep that glass the
way that it looked with that desaturated image so now as I've gone round it I've
got the option there to fill that central area in you're going to change
the brush size using the left bracket key so it allows me to go smaller and I
just got to go in and fill some of the finer points with the image again you
could do this with a lot more finesse than I'm currently doing with this image
but the actual image itself lends itself to this particular background so you
don't really need to be that precise in applying the mask to these finer areas
but I will do it as best I can in the time that I want to spend with you at
the moment so let's just fill some of these finer areas in mr. Klump there and
finally these two petal shapes here
right now as I say you could spend a little bit more time defining your mask
to make it perfect but once you define the main areas you can go to view the
effect and that is the right hand icon here so when you view that it now shows
you the hole of the image with a mask applied now you can see here
we've got a problem we've got a part of the image which is showing through to my
original background and I don't want that so if I just add to that masked
selection I can go over that small area and apply the background to that point
if there was any other areas of the image that looked suspect then again you
could either have to add them or subtract them from your background
that's looking good I just want to apply now a frame to the image and again using
the effects gallery you've got the option to select borders classic vintage
contemporary now I'm going to go for classic because I know there's one in
there which has got a blue plastic background I think that was on page 2
yes there is so I'll know select that background you can see that it's applied
a frame appropriate for the type of image so got a square image it will size
it appropriately for a square image obviously her horizontal or portrait
would do the same there is the play padded area and that's this white area
between the image and the frame so I've wanted to add a little bit more padding
then you can add that at this point of the program when you're happy with that
just click on OK and for the final touch I'm going to add a signature now you
could do that using the text and just type it in or you can then create your
own signature and have it in one of your presets so I've got my signature as a
preset then I can just locate it on the image where I want I wanted to make that
a little bit more pencil like I could fade that down like so and that would be
the image complete final thing to do is save that save it as a JPEG or TIFF or
PNG save it with the size you want or the quality you want and then it will
save it in the same folder that you've already got this assigned to so we call
that new image help me save it it will save it into that folder it's quite slow
to render while I've got the screen capture program running but normally
it's quite quick to render these type of images
so check it out on the wwu a smart folder edah TOCOM website so there is a
10% offer on there at the moment if you wanted to purchase this it's fine
editing program for just basic editing but all these are special effects for
applying frames etc it really is intuitive how to use the program and
that's it done so we just go into the windows viewer file viewer and if we
went into the memory card we've got the new image and that just opens up in
photos you can see the effect so that's what done in 10 minutes and if you
wanted to spend a little bit more time you would get a better effect on the
image but that doesn't look too bad for this presentation well that's it for
this short video tutorial hope you learn something in that now if you're a new
viewer to this channel please do click that subscribe button and then click the
bell notification icon and then you get notification in your YouTube list when
I've uploaded the next video in this tutorial series also check out my father
if it blog you'll find lots more information and there's the invitation
there to join my for daily newsletter now that newsletter is more than
newsletter it's a full technical publication in many respects stuff that
I don't publish on the photo blog so do subscribe to that if you've not already
done so so again thanks very much for watching until the manet video please do
take care and I'll see you all in the next one good bye for now
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