We've never played golf before ......ah beauty...... where's it gone?.......
keep your head down......you're supposed to hit it.......keep your head down
so I found another Easter egg on the Jeep, come over here, need to open your bottle,
little bottle open on all of the door handles, beautiful
Chin chin thanks Jeep, oh and thanks Red Hill.
so we're filling up, 156
old-style pump, up to 50 bucks already, whoops 56 and
its topped out, do a little little extra in there, get as full as we can so we've got 37
litres 57:96
So these are, these are salt plains out here, you can see all the way out here
salt plains and this is the route I'm going to be heading now.
Hello and welcome to the Steve's kitchen podcast on the road and we're on real
dirt tracks today on the Hyden Norseman or we're doing the Norseman to
Hyden trail, it's compounded mud sort of a gravel track, real sort of Outback feel
to it. What do you think of it Michele?..... yeah it's about 297 K's so just under
300 k's of reasonably smooth there was a little bit of Bituman Road when we
first started, wasn't there? ......Where we saw I don't know the name of it,
it's like a thorny lizard, he's just laying in the middle of the road. I'm going to call it
a thorny lizard, I will find out. We have no internet, no phone reception out here
for the last day or so and we managed to find a nice little spot last night,
off the road wasn't a mark stopping trail but it actually turned out to be a
really nice spot...... Just a track where obviously cars had gone
down at some point, we just went down a little way and stopped, then we walked
a little bit further....... This is a fascinating road, head of me now, we just come
over the the brow of a hill and as far as I can see into the distance is sort
of reddy Brown track leading down between what are lots of
Eucalypt style trees, very smooth barked trees and apparently in this area
the soil is predominantly a sand, a combination of a sort of coarse sand and
a fine sand I think it makes up about 80% of the soil. It's really very low in
nutrients, so there's no real potassium, there's no nitrates in the soil and yet
as far as we can see to the left and right of us is beautiful trees growing
and bushland and shrubs. So clearly it might be void of all the nutrients but
it's, it's good enough for the Eucalypts and Michele say a little bit about some of
what you read about the number of eucalypts in this area...... there's about 500
species of eucalypts in the whole of Australia and this area has 16% about 80
different species of eucalypts just in this area alone.......
and it's quite noticeable where we parked last night, there were just some most
beautiful trees. I I took some photographs I'll try and put them up on
on this podcast or maybe on Facebook. They look, the trees that were around us,
looked almost like a parasitic tree. They're growing, almost morphing around
other dead trees. So it's kind of bizarre you'll see the end of the trees have
closed up and then an old tree sort of spouting out and there were many
different sort of copper colors and green colors. It was just beautiful what
happened....... there was a shiny one, was shiny like a copper pipe like.... yeah it was like a
copper pipe wasn't it, I took a photograph of it because it looked so
shiny and coppery. What happened this morning when you woke up Michele?....
Popped out of the tent and there were two kangaroos looking at me, they hopped
away pretty quick, called Steve and then they went behind a tree and then I
couldn't see them, so we thought they'd gone, went walking a bit further along
and they were standing looking back at us and they turned and hopped off and
they were gone, and then we never saw any more but two,
not too big, they weren't very big but they're kangaroos.
So it was it was interesting because where we stopped there were signs of
animal life I mean not far maybe about 20 feet from the tent where we decide to
pitch there was some some animal droppings but they were really large and
we kind of tried to debate whether they were too big for kangaroos wether they
might have been camel it was difficult to tell little.
So what night is this Michele? how many nights are we in?....7..... 7 nights in. We've come way
off the Nullarbor, we're way out in the bush now I mean these are dirt roads.
There's some big droppings here I'm not sure that's camel droppings it doesn't
look like cow It could be camel droppings. I don't think it's roo I know it's
not roo. Reckon so anyway, so we're going to set up tonight Oh little parrots are
coming in, are they budgerigar no I'm not sure buggies are down this
way. Trees are fascinating have a look at this tree over here
almost like it's grafted itself, it's a parasitic tree maybe or oh big ants there
it's grafted itself or it starts to grow out of an old tree. So the ground looks
reasonably flat so I think we'll be good. Almost like giant gerbil droppings so
we're not sure, there was also some interesting tracks on the ground around
us. Now we couldn't decide what they were, they
were definitely the shape of a horse hoof, so they were a round footprints, sort
of with almost like a horse hoof but if you can imagine a lot smaller. Now
deer don't make that sort of track, and kangaroos definitely don't make it and
camels, which are in the area, I'm pretty sure camels have two toes so they
wouldn't make that sort of marking.It looked like a very small pony with a
where the shoe on almost had made the mark but I can't we we're going to have
to research it and find out..... which we couldn't do last night because we had
no internet...... we've had no internet for this is the second day of no internet
and no connection. So nobody can get in touch with us, which is quite, quite nice
in a way but I don't know when we'll be able to get back online to share any
information about our whereabouts but I'm sure nobody will be too worried......
before we stop last night we went to ... we stopped at a place called disappointment
Rock, weren't quite sure what it was going to be but it was quite nice to
climb up the rock..... just about see our yellow Jeep next to the green Dunny way down
there.
yeah wasn't it disappointment was it...... no it wasn't..... I think there was a trail
around the rock... I've got a leaflet and it said there was a trail you could
follow, you know do certain things, was about two K's but we just went straight
up the rock.... so it was like, if you imagine like a sort of miniature Ayers
Rock, but not really with the the barren land around it it was just a big obelisk
sticking out of the ground ,a big solid piece of rock and we just walked up. Once
you got to the actual top the views were just remarkable from
almost any direction that you care to look, there was nothing but the tops of
eucalypt trees for thousands of miles, it looked like ,which is really quite
isolated and quite pleasant to look at. There was no, I don't think there was a
break in the canopy was there..... I don't think so because there are lakes around
here or Lake flats but they not very full of water because obviously we haven't had a lot
rain, but you come across huge areas of Lake
but up on disappointment Rock it was all trees, I believe....... not a disappointment
at all, well worth the very short climb to the top of the rock and
apologizing if it's a bit noisy you can imagine we're on unmade roads at the
moment, the car is getting covered in a sort of like a film of red outback dust,
which is getting in everywhere. We met a young couple traveling, the names were
Clint and .....Danielle ......and they were traveling with three children. It was
interesting we just passed disappointment rock where we stopped
last night, there was a a young couple with three children traveling from Perrth
back to their home in Tasmania and it reminded us a lot of when Michele and I
traveled with our children when they were that sort of age. We traveled for
quite a number of years and I think discussing it with those, that couple
there they were quite inspired maybe to go off and do their own sort of
traveling. Traveling certainly never did us any harm and at the beginning of this
trail before we set off the Norseman to..... Hyden..... Hyden which is where we're heading
to which is a place called wave rock and Clint just told us, the guy we met,
that wave rock was a little bit of a disappointment so we will see what it's
like but Norsemen was not a disappointment either
.. getting the word disappointment as often as possible into the podcast but
Norseman was a beautiful little town. I believe the population is about 700
people, so the lady in the IGA told me but one time it was quite a few thousand
people, so it's a sizable town but depreciating because it's so isolated
but what a pretty town and it's got quite an interesting story behind the
name of Norseman, flies are still with us. We have arrived in Norseman now Norseman
always fascinated me because just the name of it you know it's the Norse
Scandinavians and you kind of wonder where the connection between a
town called Norseman way out here in Western Australia, I think we are now not
a long way from Esperance but just had a little chat with a lady here in
the information center and it's a nice town, it's got good stores, good shops in
here, lovely people. It's also got by the way showers if I wanted to, I'm not going
to take a shower today, got showers and bathrooms over here.
So really well maintained public toilets, but the lady was saying a guy by the name of
Sinclair from the Shetland Isles in Scotland, got a few friends from Shetland,
from the Shetland Isles, arrived here. I'm not sure of the dates I'll try and put it
up on the screen if I can find out but he arrived here at Esperance and he had
a pony with him and he rode up
prospecting for gold. I think he was prospecting at least he certainly found gold there's a hill up behind us here and the
Hoof, was the hoof of the horse was a little bit lame and he got a bit of
stone with a, cork, she said cork I'm not sure how that
would be but there was some something in his hoof and so he worked it out with a
little knife and he found that it was actually containing a small piece of
gold. So he put down roots here and started digging for gold
and that's ...his horse because he came from the Shetland Isles and because they
have quite a history with the the Norseman he named the horse
Norsemen, I think had a double-barreled name but it became known as Norseman. So
the town was named after the horse that found the gold, the first piece of gold
in the area and so all of the street signs, see over here this is
Robert Street.
So this street here Sinclair Street is actually named after Sinclair who was
the person that discovered and named Norseman or was the horse
was named after and Robert Street. Also they've got the, each of them have got
the horse on there with the hoof and that little gold nugget, so it's pretty
fascinating. So we're about to head off down the Hyden trail, this is about two
or three hundred kilometres to wave rock and it's partially it's an unmade Road
but I really love Norseman, it's a lovely little town, great people really friendly
Got to say a big thank you to Judy in the Information Center she was super
sweet, super helpful
So if you ever get the chance to visit Norseman pop into the Information Center
and say hello to Judy and it's well worth a visit and there are two, three
maybe four small motels in the town, so you can always stop over. We were camping
so we camped a little bit outside but I think it was a really pretty historic
town and well worth dropping in. As I say now we're driving on an unmade track
between Norseman and wave rock ......which I had seen on on Google Maps but every
time I put in to get into wave rock it took us around the coast or inland and
round to it but this road went all the way through, so Steve asked Judy about it
she said yep it's a good road, you can drive it, so we're driving it and it's
good ......well it's quite a few hundred kilometers shorter isn't it...... yeah it's
550 kilometres to go round or 300 kilometres to go through, ......so we thought
we'd rather go the shorter distance and the lady in the information Judy said it
was fine so here we are now on this dirt track and it's a little rougher but it's
it's not anything too treacherous. Where we stopped last night we had to drive
into the bush, a little bit that was probably a little more sort of softer
ground up and down but no real issues and we had some really nice walks last
time actually in .....and this morning..... just looking to see if we could see any
more kangaroos or any other ....we were looking for Koalas because there's lots of
Euclypt trees but no koalas..... I thought we might see koalas, there probably would be
koalas somewhere, we haven't spotted them yet they're very hard to spot koalas,
they're very solitary, very quiet animals, spend a lot of time sleeping in
the trees. So yes we haven't spotted them yet we have seen kangaroos we haven't
seen the camels or the emus....saw lots of pretty birds..... birds were gorgeous I've tried to
photograph them but it's very hard. We haven't got the high telescopic lenses,
so we haven't been able to get them but there's some very pretty birds in the
trees around us and the trees themselves were just gorgeous and the scenery I
think in general. Also sort of looking at the tracks, I could actually see the
kangaroo tracks that had come through the camp where we were
and I was fascinated to actually pace out the kangaroo tracks. So you can see
with kangaroos they land on two feet and then jump and bound forward and land
again on two feet. Now you wouldn't necessarily presume
that they take a particularly large jump and I don't think these were
particularly big kangaroos but I paced out six paces between one hop and the
next hop so I would say somewhere around about maybe four meters maybe five
meters between hops and I paced that two or three times just to sort of see.
So it's interesting just, and these kangaroos, these these hop prints
were between some of the most Awkward little bits of bush and trees so they
really motor through the bush and they're very accurate.
It seems they must be able to see quite some distance ahead of them and
calculate where they've got to land for the next hop. It's quite often the the
hops were right next to very sort of rough bush and big trees. Now as I'm talking
the roads got a little bit rougher and now we seem to be bending between sort
of fairly low Eucalypt trees and a lots of shrub and bush.
Clint told us that the road is going to get a little rougher toward the end
of our journey, we call it here in Australia corrugated roads, where they
ruffle or sort of vibrate pretty aggressively, so that's yet to come.
There's a truck says beware of road trains so there are actually road trains
huge long trucks with maybe 3/4 articulated units so there's signs here
saying, we did see one Road train in the distance but I haven't seen another
vehicle all morning actually on the road so that's how busy it is out here, pretty
quiet. So we've got many many kilometres to go, a good few hundred kilometers
before we get well possibly - was it 200 kilometers to our destination? You do
have to be careful out here that you have enough fuel to get from point A to
point B because you're not you're not going to get many opportunities to get
gas, petrol diesel, whatever it is you require.
Now this stretch of road is a lot dustier than the earlier stretch, probably
because we're near to the mine so behind me there's a plume of dust in the air
which means the poor old car will be getting even more dirty.
We haven't cleaned it since we set off so it's looking quite chalky at the
moment which is all good. Now what was the lake that we stopped at today?.....
Lake Johnston...... that's what we filmed with the drone ....yeah I think so....it's fascinating because
these lakes they've mostly dried up and they leave like looks to be like a salt
so they look like salt lakes but the surface is quite soft. We walked out onto
it and you can see that several cars have driven out onto the lake and I
don't think is that firm so you need to have a pretty pretty good four-wheel
drive to drive onto the lake.
I think one of the most fascinating things to the right and left I'm
starting to see evidence of it again actually is the the fires that have been
out in the bush here maybe in the last 12 months or so. They've had some fairly
heavy fires because a little earlier before the dissapointment rock there was
a huge maybe 50, hundred kilometer stretch of burnt trees. So you can
actually still smell the sort of burnt wood in the air, so all this bush land
here has had fires and you can smell it as you're driving around not sure when
they had the fires. I wouldn't think it's that long ago there's still quite a bit
of ash on the ground. Look at the soil I mean it's it's a very nutrient poor soil,
for soil it's highly acidic, it's got I believe an aluminium poison in it or its
aluminium toxic, so it's really not the sort of land that you can grow most
plants in and yet all around here, although we've had this fiery
devastation you can see here already these coarse tendrils are coming up of
new plant life and can you see just how burnt that piece of wood is, completely
burnt but underneath here there's a beautiful I'm not sure if this is a
wattle, somebody more knowledgeable than me can tell but this is a another plant
that's coming up over here. See the carbon on here, these are almost metallic
they've got a a sort of metallic rustle to them and again signs of growth, new
growth coming up. There's somewhere in the region of 16 percent of the Eucalypt
trees of all Australia grow in this area, in this region all of these trees that
have been so damaged by the fires, they're different, they've got different
root stocks. I have no doubt at all that this carbonized tree that's here will
grow back. You look just underneath the carbon
there's still life, you just peel that back,
there is still life in this tree. What causes these fires Michele?..... I read that
it's, most if not all the fires are caused by lightning. So it's not really
they're not man-made, not people leaving burning embers or anything,
it's lightning....... so yes generally against a popular
belief that it's caused by human activity a lot of these big Bush fires
are started by by lightning. So I suspect over many many thousands of years that
the nature and the flora in the area has learned to adapt to bush fires and I'm
pretty sure that most of the actual land that we're driving past at the moment is
completely naturally formed rather than being cultivated by humans it looks very
very natural, apart from this road that we're driving on which is really just a
big long gravel road through the middle of the bush.....Well they say this area
hasn't had domesticated cattle and sheep farmed on it because of the lack of
water, so it's naturally forming landscapes, it hasn't had the human
habitation because there's no water here, there's no underwater bores or caves or
anything, so it's a very harsh environment for humans to live in but
the trees and bushes seem to survive....... back on the Nullarbor I think there's a
lot of underwater rivers and .....caves .....caves with lots of water, so that many bores...
just come to the top of a hill again and I can see or what looks to be a hundred
kilometers or more of road ahead of us with nothing on it at all, it's just
vanishes into the into the distance. It's not a straight road it's got some sort
of bends and curves in it but it does look a long way off......We keep seeing signs that
say thank you for driving slowly through though roadworks area but we never see
the start of the roadworks...... I seem to have the signs up saying
you're going into a an area where they're working on the road but we get,
infact anyway but to be honest the whole road looks like a road work so you know
when when you do get to an area where they sort of... technically you could
be because there's maybe a few bollards or things, the road doesn't get any worse.
So you have to drive pretty much the same speed all the time and we we're
driving between sort of seventy and ninety kilometers now, depending on
on visibility and the state of the roads. The one car we did pass this morning was
hammering along here at great speed and caused quite a plume, that's going to happen
occasionally but mostly people are driving fairly respectively and
they'll just give you a wave as you pass them. We haven't seen a car for probably
an hour I would imagine...oh at least yeah it would be no quicker going this way it's
just a shorter route because we can't go as fast as you would on the hard road
but I think we're seeing definitely a prettier and different
landscape...... it is certainly a lot more interesting driving now here in the
outback then it would have been driving on that
the hardtop down to Esperance, so I'm kind of pleased we came this way. So with a good
few hundred kilometers traveled and another hundred or two to finish before
the end of today and I think we're just going to sign off in this podcast. We just
made a few mental notes of what we've been up to over the last 24 hours.
I hope wherever you are in the world you're having a wonderful time and a
great life adventure, be good and we'll talk to you very shortly..... bye .......bye
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