In this video I'm gonna walk you through the techniques used in this hate.
It's called a dopplet hat and it comes with a bonus knit pattern.
And it's called a dopplet hat for a reason.
You see we have a little fairisle stripe thing going on.
But, wait, there's more.
It's actually two hats in one.
It's double warm and it's a double hat.
This side is a slip stitch cable pattern that I hope you can see and the mitts match that.
And then the other side is the fairisle pattern.
And this tutorial is brought to you by KPC Yarn.
I use their [inaudible 00:00:33] DK yarn in this and this yarn is 70% merino, 30% cotton,
and it's the 30% cotton that really gives great definition to the cables in this pattern
and it's really nice to work with.
And I believe KPC is running a promo right now so if you click the little eye in the
upper right hand corner at the time of shooting this video, releasing this video, they are
running a promo on this yarn for this new tutorial.
Go to my website, I'll have the details about the promotion and you can download your free
pattern and see all the yarn amounts and everything that you need.
And a couple things I wanna say about KPC is they are located in Hong Kong so your yarn
is shipping from Hong Kong, but that's nothing to worry about.
In my experience and the experience of others when you order from them the yarn often shows
up more quickly than it would if you ordered domestically.
I have no idea why that is or how that works, but they're really good about getting your
yarn to you quickly.
The other thing is their website, the default currency on their website is Hong Kong Dollars.
So if you're looking at yarn and it is ridiculously high priced it's because you have it in Hong
Kong Dollars.
Just click the little HKD at the top of the page and pull down the menu to select the
currency in your home country.
Because this is actually a great value on yarn.
So we've got a free pattern.
All the info is on my website.
I would put this pattern at an intermediate level.
Not because it's really all that hard, just because there's kind of a lot going on, a
lot of different techniques.
And I designed this hat pattern for it to be double warm because I live in Texas, I
don't have a lot of need for a double warm hat but my whole family's in Alaska and it's
good for them to have warm ears.
And it's both double warm and interesting for the knitter because we have the two hats
going on.
Let me show you.
I have not really thought of what this shape is called other than a football shape.
That's kind of what it is.
Anyway, go ahead and go to my website to order your yarn and get your free pattern.
And next up we're going to start with the most difficult part of the hat which is the
very beginning in the first few rows.
We are ready to get started on this hat and, like I said, the very hardest part of this
whole thing is right up front, the first few rows.
Because, normally, when you're knitting a hat you start at the cuff and work your way
up.
But, because we have two hats here, we have to start at the crown of one and knit through
to binding off at the end.
And so I've given us the easiest part to start with which is the single color, no cables
part.
So it's easier...I could have made a heart let me just say it that way.
But we'll get through this, it's the first few rounds, and I'm going to demonstrate on
DP ends but if you prefer magic loop you can do it.
I think it's really cumbersome to work so few stitches on magic loop but if you're good
at it you go for it, it will absolutely work.
First off let's go ahead and get a close up.
Okay.
So the first hat we have a stripe pattern and it's not...it's not a clean stripe pattern.
We have a little bit of fairisle going on.
So it is a jagged stripe pattern through to the rib of that hat which leads right into
the rib of the next hat.
And then we have this cable pattern and the cable pattern's really simple.
It's only one stitch carried over in the cables but it looks cool and the thing that really
makes it...well, the yarn really makes it stand out like this but each...every other
round is slipped so these stitches are twice as long as the reverse stockinette in the
background which gives it that unique look.
And then we decrease on the crown here and I'd work the decreases so they look good when
they're finished.
And when the whole thing's done whichever side you're not wearing because the lining
for the other side.
And here is a close up of the mitt.
It's a pretty simple mitt pattern.
If you've worked mitts before there's not a lot new here.
There is a thumb gusset and so it's a nice fitting mitt.
And I was also thinking, I did this in the same color as the cabled hat.
If you wanted to make it better match both you could do it in, like, the main color of
the striped hat.
I don't know, there are people who are better with colors than I am, for sure, that will
think of some cool things to do.
Okay.
So right off the bat we're going to start with our double-pointed needles and our yarn
to start with the crown of the hat.
And I'm going to suggest that when you do this, like, let's say the first 10 rounds
or so, go ahead and leave yourself enough time to finish the first 10 rounds or so without
a lot of interruption just because it's hard to...it's going to be hard to pick it up and
figure out where you are the first few rounds because we can't place a marker.
So, we start by casting on six stitches over three needles.
So I cast on one, two on each needle.
And if you are curious about the way I'm doing the long-tail cast on here I'll give you a
link to my video.
Okay.
I have my six stitches and they're basically wind chimes right now with no order to them.
Okay.
So if you have a table in front of you, which I suggest, you can set it out like this.
I'm gonna shorten my tail just because I don't need this much tail and it kind of gets in
the way.
I have my working yarn coming from this stitch and my next stitch is going to be right here.
Find your working yarn, your next stitch is always to the left of your working yarn when
you're working on something like this.
So I am going to use this yarn to knit this stitch and it's going to join everything in
the round.
I'm gonna put this needle under the back one, it's just the way I prefer to do things.
Turn things a little bit.
I'm still using the surface of the table to support things so they don't get tangled.
Scoot this stitch close to the tip, get my needle in there, and knit it.
And we're joined in the round and I knit the next stitch.
Okay.
Now, again, there's my working yarn.
My next stitch is to the left of my working yarn.
[00:08:00]
[silence]
[00:08:14]
Okay.
Again.
You can see that if you stopped in the middle here you can't really tell where the beginning
of your round is.
So you wanna go ahead and knit all six so you can say, "Round one finished."
All right.
That was round one.
Round two is KFB a round.
KFB is the knit front back increase.
There is my working yarn, there's my next stitch.
So I'm gonna knit that stitch and then swing the tip of my needle around to the back loop
of that stitch.
Knit it, pull it through so I just made two stitches out of one.
And I'm gonna do that to every stitch.
[00:09:02]
[silence]
[00:09:39]
Okay.
When you're finished with this round you'll have 12 stitches and it's already getting
a lot easier to work just because there's just enough in there that it's a little easier
to work.
And this round which is round three is just knit every stitch.
And it's not a bad idea to count as you go along because you just wanna knit 12.
We don't have enough fabric to place a marker yet so we just have to keep count.
That was eight.
Okay.
Round four is, again, KFB, knit front back every stitch around.
And it's getting a lot easier to tell.
You see if I put this down.
My working yarn is here, my next stitch is here.
It's getting a lot easier to see.
If you can make it through, like, the first three rounds it gets so much easier.
And I told you this is the hardest part of the hat so if you made it through the first
three rounds the rest of it should be a breeze.
Oops, I split a stitch there.
It's a breeze if you're paying attention to what you're doing.
Oops.
There we go.
Okay.
I wanna get you at least up to round five.
[00:11:40]
[silence]
[00:12:26]
Okay.
That was round four and round five is just knitting every stitch.
And, again, pay attention to how many stitches you're knitting.
You have 24 stitches in round five.
And make sure you're knitting 24.
No more, no less, because we can't mark the beginning of the round yet.
[00:12:51]
[silence]
[00:13:27]
Okay.
Here we are with round five finished and I want to show you the right side of the work
here.
We have enough so that you can take a marker and wherever your working yarn is when you
finish that round, between those two needles is the beginning of your round.
So go ahead and put a marker there so that you know, between those two needles, that's
the beginning of your round and you don't have to be so careful with keeping track of
exactly you've knit on each one.
And so that's like round five.
I have it marked in the pattern that round five you can go ahead and place a market for
the beginning of the round.
And then keep following the patter.
Like in the next round, round six, is knit one, KFB, knit one, KFB around all the stitches,
and it'll grow pretty quickly.
And then by round 18 you can switch to 16 inch circular needles or if you prefer to
do magic loop you can switch more quickly than that with...or if you've already done
this part on magic loop, if you're already on magic loop.
But 16 inch circular needs will be the right size after round 18. and I happen to have
a little bit going here on 16 inch circulars.
Here is the crown of the hat and I'm already into the striping pattern.
Now we're going to talk about the chart for the striping pattern a little bit.
It is the super simple chart for color pattern and I have...let me make sure this is all
on camera.
Yes.
I have all of the colors listed here.
If you're using different colors just go ahead and cross those out and mark your colors in
but this is the chart pattern repeated around the hat.
You're always going to read it from right to left and you just take those four stitches
and repeat them all the way around the hat.
So I have the dark blue to light blue and then two rounds.
And then the light blue every two stitches and the wicker, the tan, every two stitches.
And then three rounds and then we alternate with the tan and the yellow and then five
rounds of the yellow, you see, through the notchy sequence here.
So I'm gonna show you a good way or how I like to change colors and reading the chart
like this.
So I'm just about at the end of this round and I'm just about ready to change to yellow
or incorporate yellow, at least.
Okay.
And once you switch to circulars, of course, you'll want to put a ring marker on.
So the chart shows that I'm going to work the first two stitches in wicker, in tan,
and then switch to pear drop the second two stitches.
So I'm going to knit the first two stitches in wicker and then bring in...bring
in the pear drop color and knit the first stitch and the second stitch.
And I'm going to go ahead and use a technique that I put in a video recently for weaving
in ends as you go.
I'm gonna put my needle in because I'm ready to work a tan stitch and over in my left hand
I have the two strands of the yellow that I'm not working.
I want to weave in at least the one end, it's okay to carry both of them though.
So I'll pull that over the right needle...actually, put the needle in first, pull those yarns
over the right needle, wrap it, pull those two yarns back, pull it through, knit the
next stitch because I'm alternating.
And now I'm going to work two yellows.
I'm gonna go ahead and do that again to weave this in a little bit more.
I could have carried that other yellow, too, on those two stitches but...
I'll give you a link to the video where I really break this down.
And then I really break down how to carry that to weave in those ends.
It's kind of a new technique for me and I am loving it.
I'm using it all the time in fairisle.
So you're just going to alternate the two colors like this and another thing that's
important when you're working this is to keep your stitches on your right needle pretty
stretched out because if you start to carry the floats behind and your stitches are kind
of all crunched together you'll end up with floats that are a bit too short and you'll
get some puckering in the hat right here.
So this is what I do.
I put my needle in, I stretch the stitches on the right needle, work those two stitches,
put the needle in, stretch the stitches on the right needle, work those two stitches...it's
kind of an automatic thing for me.
You do it enough times.
So after I work this round of alternating every two stitches then I'm going to work
one, two, three, four, five rounds of just the pear drop color and then I'm gonna alternate
the pear drop and the thunder color to get...when I get to the center stripe of the hat.
And I'll give you, again, a look at how that comes out.
Okay.
And, of course, I have this all spelled out row by row in the pattern.
I think that might be all that we have.
I think that's all that we have for this section.
I was thinking it was gonna go right into the cable section but I'm gonna save that
for the next section so you can catch up with the striped hat before we moved into the cabled
hat.
Okay.
So, I will see you in the next section.
We'll work the cables.
We're ready to get started on the cabled hat and working the cables.
And if you've worked cables before you'll see this is a really simple cable pattern
because we're only carrying one stitch at a time on the cable needle and then slipping
a bunch of stitches on alternate rounds.
So, let's go ahead and take a look.
Here's the cable pattern again so you can see how it looks in the hat.
And here is the little sample I have worked up to demonstrate this.
And this is, of course, a flat sample and it's kind of curling up on itself even though
I steamed it because it's what it's going to do because it's...basically a stockinette
swatch.
But your hat won't be like this because it's knit in the round.
This is just to demonstrate the stitches.
And I'm going to use a little, short wood cable needle.
There are so many different types of cable needles.
It's just kind of a thing where you have to try out a few to find your preference.
I like these that have...they're a little bit thinner in the middle so they hang onto
the stitch and there's...it's a...well, they're thicker on the ends and thinner in the middle.
These are the ones I like.
I know that there are some that have little cuts in the wood, those are also nice for
hanging onto the stitches.
Just a little, short wood one's my favorite.
I know people really like the metal ones that are shaped like long U's.
They come in all kinds of shapes.
Just a matter of trying them out.
So I am ready to work this round.
I'm gonna show you how the cabling works.
And I happen to have myself on round seven here.
So I'm going to pearl one and then right twist.
And to right twist I'm going to take the next stitch which is a pearl, put it on the cable
needle, and put it in the back of the work.
You always put the pearls in the back of the work.
Knit the next stitch off the right needle and yarn forward to pearl the stitch off the
cable needle.
Don't worry, I'm gonna go through this whole row with you so you'll definitely have it.
And then pearl two.
And then left twist.
Take the next knit stitch, hold it in the front of the work, pearl the next stitch off
the right needle.
Then knit the next stitch off the cable needle.
And after that we pearl one.
So that's the whole pattern repeat right there.
So I'm just gonna do that again all the way around the hat.
Pearl one.
Right twist.
The pearl goes behind the work.
Knit a stitch.
Yarn forward.
Pearl from the cable needle.
Pearl two.
You see, I yarn back there just to tighten up that stitch when I go to pearling.
And now I'm going to work a left twist.
Take the knit stitch, hold it in front of the work.
Pearl one and knit the one from the cable needle.
Pearl one.
That was two.
Two repeats.
A right twist.
Pearl two.
A left twist.
Pearl one.
And one last time, pearl one.
Right twist.
Pearl two.
Uh-oh.
This is bound to happen though just because I haven't made any mistakes in this video
so far with my stitches.
I don't mind.
I like showing that those kind of things aren't reason to panic.
So I did that, pearl two.
How?
I think I have an extra stitch here.
Oh, no.
I don't.
I'm fine.
No.
No, this can't be right.
How did I drop those stitches?
Like, everything was going fine then I dropped those stitches and then everything goes crazy.
So two, four, two, two...Oh, I'm fine.
I just lost track with my mind.
My stitches knew what they were doing.
Okay.
I still think something's not quite right.
Like, that I dropped an extra stitch.
No.
I know what I did.
Well, you get to watch me undo cable stitches now.
See, I don't mind making mistakes in videos like this if you can see how they're corrected.
I did a...I'm gonna put these stitches in the right order this time which I don't think...there
we go.
Now I'm going to do the correct twist on it this time.
There we go.
And you know what?
I'm gonna give you a link here to lifelines.
In case you're worried about making mistakes like that in your hat you can always rip back
to your lifeline.
I just had a little problem right there that was easy to tink back and fix because I recognized
it right away.
But if you're worried at all about making mistakes and having a disaster I am linking
to lifeline so that you have that video.
I'm glad I remembered.
We have to be glad I made the mistake so it was easy to remember to link to lifelines.
Okay.
So on this one I'm gonna show you what every alternate round is like which is just slipping
the stitches.
When you're looking at the work, when you have a stitch that has a little scarf around
its neck that's a pearl stitch and the stitch that has a V under it, that's a knit stitch.
And on every other round you're going to pearl the pearl stitches and slit the knit stitches
with the yarn and back.
And I wanna give you a quick look at what that's like.
So my first stitch here is a pearl and my next stitch is a knit.
So I have my yarn in back, I just put my needle into that stitch as if to pearl, slip it from
the left to the right, and then just keep going.
I'm gonna pearl these stitches.
And then my next stitch is a knit so I yarn back, put my needle in as if to pearl, and
slip it.
Pearl the next stitches.
This is every other row.
I believe they're the even rows.
Yes.
Even numbered rounds.
Just slip the knits and pearl the pearls and that's what gives us these elongated knit
stitches that look really cool against the background.
Okay, that is...that's the cables.
That's how we're going to work the cables all the way around the hat and I'll tell you,
it is a 20-round repeat but you get pretty good at recognizing what's coming up next.
There's just one other thing I wanna cover and that is when you finished the cable hat...and
this is not the cable hat, but I'm gonna use this for an example.
You're going to have an end that you can't weave in because the whole thing...you know,
the whole thing is contained.
Right?
There's no way to get your hand inside the hat to weave it in.
So I'm gonna show you what I do in situations like this.
I'm gonna take a tapestry needle and I'm going to unwind the plies of the yarn.
And this is four-ply yarn, it's actually six-ply yarn.
So I'm going to separate the plies three and three.
Take three of those plies, put it on a needle, and then just put it...grab something a half
a stitch away...this is the way I weave in cotton ends, too.
So that the two ends are coming out of just different places really close together.
I'm gonna tie a knot.
A double knot.
Okay.
Make it pretty tight and then thread all six plies back on the needle and poke that end
down into the hat.
Now you can't reach up in, you have to do all of this from the outside of the work and
just find a spot to come out.
And straighten it out.
You wanna leave yourself a little bit of an end there inside the hat.
I'm not even sure it really does any good, but it makes me feel better that there's an
end inside there.
And then you can cut it short and pull on it and the end is lost inside the hat forever.
You never have to see it and it looks good on the outside.
Okay.
Those are all the techniques used in both hat...both parts of this hat, both hats in
this hat.
Many thanks to KPC Yarn and their [inaudible 00:30:07] DK, letting us use this for their
hat...for this hat.
If you'd like to get your free copy of the pattern just click the little eye to go to
my website.
Again, all the information is there about the yarn amounts and the different colors
that I used and downloading the free pattern and the promo that KPC is running on this
yarn.
Good luck.
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