Testing Ourselves Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg's express aclimatization
A film by Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg
We don't like a big expedition
where you spend two months in the mountains and you don't have much activity
so we wanted a short expedition
because we didn't have much time. We have the ski season and the running season
and we like to do these two things.
So the question behind the project was,
is it possible to climb to 8,000m in 10 days without any oxygen and without any support?
That was the question and we didn't know if it was possible.
Perfect vacation, before the summer.
I couldn't think of any better vacation actually.
Let's see in five days at 7,000m
if it feels like a vacation
The traditional way to acclimatise is to climb
to progressively higher altitudes
and descend to sleep at altitude.
This takes a lot of time and money.
This year we did very different preparation for going to the Himalayas.
We acclimatised at home
and then a short expedition there
to be really fresh and still in shape.
I think one big goal was to see if it was possible
to be that acclimatised before going there.
Hypoxia training
Hypoxia training means you're working
with an oxygen deficit
and therefore simulating being at altitude.
There are various mechanisms for simulating altitude,
from a hypoxia tent to a mask with a mix of gases.
The most important thing isn't the mechanism
but the protocol that is followed.
In the morning I was training normally in the mountains
skiing for 6 or 7 hours
and then in the afternoon it was training on the machine for an hour.
Simulating being at 6,000m and then sleeping at 4,000m
during the first week and progressively increasing
until during the last week you sleep at 5,800m.
I calculated that I had 340 hours to train before we were going there.
And the week before leaving we were sleeping in a hut in the Alps
at 4,000m and racing Mezzalama at high altitude too.
It was minus 27 up at the summit
and here inside the tent it's almost 30 degrees.
It's summertime, eh.
Day 2
It sounds empty
We are not far from it
It feels close. But it wouldn't be
There's the camp
Hold on, can you hear me better now?
OK, now I can hear you perfectly.
It says that tomorrow it's still good
and after tomorrow, precipitation.
If not tomorrow we wake and we go and see how we feel.
And if at 7.500 we feel fine we go up and if not we go down.
What do you think about that?
Yeah, I think so.
Your highest night ever
Yes
Doing an expedition as a couple it's nice because you share many great moments
and the preparation is nice. It's nice to plan it together, it's much more intense.
In another way you're much more scared all the time
and you have to take more care.
I think you put the balance of risk much lower…
It's a beautiful morning. It's hard the altitude?
Yes, very hard
But beautiful.
When we reached 7,500m that day
we were just behind the yellow band and we decided to turn around.
Actually I wanted to continue 20 more metres to see what the next part looked like
so I started to climb and Emelie started to climb down.
I turned my head to see her
and saw Emelie sliding down the face.
That was really scary. It was in a place where I was really comfortable
and just a little snowflake took me to a really scary situation.
That got me thinking
that even if you're comfortable on the mountain,
small, small accidents can happen which can be a disaster.
You wanted to go down fast, eh.
Yes
So it was good. We didn't go to the summit
going down in the dark in the storm is not the nicest thing.
How are you feeling?
I am so, so tired. I don't think I have ever been this tired before.
It's not bad, the fourth day on the mountain to be at 7.500
No, and it felt so good.
But then I got so tired and my head is painful.
Kilian has always liked to do research;
he's his own guinea pig.
There were earlier studies but the majority involved simulating sleeping at 3,000m
and not many studies simulated sleeping higher than that.
In the few studies carried out above 3,000m
they noticed that immunity could drop.
Kilian did it and furthermore went beyond these studies
because he began sleeping at 4,000m
and ended up sleeping at 5,800m.
His immunity wasn't compromised.
But that's him,
I don't know if in your case or mine it wouldn't have gone down.
Free sherpa
And now is time to play
Take care
Kilian!
You are too fast
We should take care
OK, here we are, eight and a half days on the mountain
and, what are we planning today?
Today, we are going to camp 1 and then tomorrow to the summit,
especially if the weather is good.
Tenemos una oportunidad de empezar a medianoche
The mornings are always nicer.
The preparation here has gone really well ..
We are resting more and climbing fine.
And eating well, sleeping well, you feel really good
you move so easy at altitude. I think it's perfect.
I'd like to show you this graphic which shows
extended times at high altitude.
If we bear in mind that after the tests the results were completely normal
we can see how successful this activity was
given the fantastic acclimatisation he did before going to the Himalayas.
This opens up the possibility of further research
that will allow us to design simulated acclimatisation training
for anyone who wants to reach the summit
not of Everest but, say, Mont Blanc,
that is more reliable
and involves spending less time at altitude.
Day 9. Summit attempt
Four hours after we are in camp 2
Hopefully the sun will come soon and we can warm up a bit.
Its freezing, freezing, freezing.
That's the yellow band.
It's hard from 7.500
Yes. It's so hard.
It's at least five hours more for me to the summit
and I wouldn't feel good being at the summit at 4 o'clock in the afternoon
so I think I need to go down and just take it easy.
Take really care in the downhill Yes
I will continue and see how I feel. Yes
Let's see if I can go farther or not
I thought it was possible to reach the summit
but I was so unsure about it the hours after.
And as it was my first experience at high altitude I just didn't want to take the risk.
So now I'm at 8,050m
Muy duros estos últimos metros. Really hard this last meters.
and it's snowing and getting windy
and it's just 150m to the summit.
I didn't stop.
I was walking around this big plateau
but when I saw it was nothing going more up then I turned around
because it was snowing pretty hard.
I'm so tired
I'm so, so, tired
Out of the snow and the fog again.
We feel the lack of acclimatisation from
7.500, 7.600, from there it's super hard.
It would be a serious and dangerous mistake
to think that anyone can do what Kilian did.
What I mean is that if you think that after completing the same month of training as Kilian
you can climb Everest with no problem,
you're mistaken. You'll probably die.
It was an experience I enjoyed
being in the mountains with Emelie,
because she's the person I love the most
but she's my best partner in the mountains because we take care of one another.
We go together and take care of each other.
First experience in a high summit, eh!
Yes, and almost 7.800
That's insane in only 10 days.
We have prepared well Yes
And it's really cool to see that it's possible to make a seven high, seven low summit in a few days only
It makes Himalayas much more tempting, I think.
It's not something inaccessible, Yes, exactly
It's human size in a way.
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