- NARRATOR: The Texas Parks & Wildlife television series
is funded in part by a grant from the
Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program.
Through your purchases of hunting and fishing equipment,
and motorboat fuels, over 50 million dollars
in conservation efforts are funded in Texas each year.
Additional funding provided by Ram Trucks.
Guts.
Glory.
Ram.
- NARRATOR: Coming up on Texas Parks & Wildlife ...
- We're on the Goliad Paddling Trail on the San Antonio River.
You don't have to be a skilled kayaker
in order to enjoy the river.
- You've got a 7,000-ton piece of metal there,
it wants to do what it wants to do.
- You really have to pay attention very closely
to the surface and you literally see it coming off.
[theme music]
♪ ♪
- NARRATOR: Texas Parks & Wildlife ,
a television series for all outdoors.
[upbeat music]
♪ ♪
- CHARLES CLAPSADDLE: We're on the Goliad Paddling Trail
on the San Antonio River.
It's up a little bit, kind of fast compared
to what it usually is, but nice.
[upbeat music]
- WESLEY: Little green out here.
- SHAUN: Yeah, it's a little green.
- WESLEY: Lot of katydids.
- We do have a paddling trail here,
and we were actually the first state park to have
a paddling trail site designated inside a state park.
- WESLEY: It's a wide river, really is.
- BRENDA: It's about 6.1 miles of beautiful pristine river.
The site here in our park is the take out site.
The other developed areas to get on the paddling trail
are north of our park.
So once you get to the park, people have to get off the river
unless they want to continue to float with no easy access
to get off.
- WESLEY: Better than schoolwork.
- Yeah, I'm glad we're out of school for summer.
What I like about here is the scenery, the nature,
all the birds and stuff.
The river is real calm.
A good place just to sit out, hang out, and canoe.
- It's a coastal stream, so it has muddy banks.
Grass and trees grow right down to the bank.
You usually see a lot of wildlife because of that.
- Lots of trees.
Water.
- CHARLES: It's good for families.
You don't have to be a skilled canoeist or a kayaker
in order to enjoy the river.
Right now, we're just drifting, we're floating on the current.
- I go out here every so often.
I like the river but this is the first time
I've been like solo kayaking.
It's always pretty out here.
- BRENDA: People love to come here and camp.
They spend the weekend here and enjoy the float.
It's very quiet and serene.
- CHARLES: The six and a half miles current trail,
I can make in an hour and a half,
most people take a little over two hours.
We will go pretty close to downtown Goliad,
a couple of blocks from the courthouse
and you wouldn't know you were near a town.
[crickets and cicadas chirp]
You hear crickets and cicadas and birds, but...
nothing that sounds like humans.
It's a nice friendly river.
[upbeat music]
- NARRATOR: We're celebrating 10 years of The Texas Clipper
serving as an artificial reef for the marine life
and people of Texas.
[waves hitting ship]
Born to support a world war...
redesigned as a world class cruise liner...
and then a maritime training vessel...
the Texas Clipper is now at her "Final Port of Call".
[bell ringing]
[applause]
The bell ceremony signals the last change of watch
for the Texas Clipper, as Texas Parks & Wildlife Department
takes final command of her.
Saved from being cut into scrap metal,
it is soon to become an artificial reef,
providing needed marine habitat,
and quality fishing and scuba diving for the people of Texas.
But, before there was a Texas Clipper,
she was known as, the "Queens".
[somber music]
[gunfire, cannon blasts]
1944.
The war is now going the way of the allies.
There is a huge need to transport troops and weapons
to the South Pacific for the fight against Japan.
Answering that need is the Queens.
She was destined to be a Texas ship from the beginning.
Her hull was laid on March 2, 1944,
the anniversary of Texas Independence Day.
[cheering and applause]
The Queens carried 47 officers and 512 enlisted men
on its maiden voyage.
Joe Edwards was one of them.
- I was 17 years old and joined the Navy.
I was just country, country boy.
And after I took the boot training and all the hmm,
when I went aboard her, it just seemed like a second home to me.
We traveled so much, different places.
That's what really made it interesting.
- NARRATOR: She left Norfolk, Virginia, and went straight to
Pearl Harbor, picking up troops and supplies and transporting
them to all corners of the Pacific.
One of the first places the Queens delivered troops
was the island of Iwo Jima, site of one of the
bloodiest battles of the Pacific War.
Joe's duty was to pilot a personnel transport.
- There were so many people killed there that,
that they just couldn't take care of everything.
And, when we was unloading you'd have to watch that,
not to hit a body or something that was floatin',
that was still floatin' around the edge of it.
We had three doctors aboard our ship and we took on
a lot of the wounded people.
And, they brought them out and the doctors helped with the
hospital ship there.
It took them a long time to get that island straight.
[blasts and gunfire]
- NARRATOR: The Queens was commissioned near the war's end,
so one of its most memorable duties was bringing
thousands of troops home.
When she was decommissioned, she quickly moved into
her next life as the Excambion.
[playful music]
In 1947, the Queens was redesigned to carry both cargo
and passengers by Henry Dreyfus, the man who designed the
radium-dial alarm clock, the Hoover upright
and the rotary-dial telephone.
This was to be a luxury ship with a country-club style.
[playful music]
Renamed the Excambion, it was one of the Four Aces,
the first fully air-conditioned ships in the world.
She embarked from New Jersey and traveled the Mediterranean
on a six-week round-trip voyage.
Fares started at $850.
- It was considered, back in the 1950's
as one of the top of the line luxury ships.
It had some of the most elaborate state rooms that
existed at the time.
One of the cargo holds that we know of now was used
as an actual swimming pool.
And some of the best service was found on that ship.
- NARRATOR: Life was good and very comfortable aboard the
Excambion, until the birth of the trans-Atlantic airplane.
Now everyone wanted to fly and the Excambion found herself
out of business, but ready to move on to her next life,
as the Texas Clipper.
[inspirational music]
The Texas Maritime Academy was now in command,
making her an ocean-going campus to train cadets for the
American merchant marine.
Texas A&M University at Galveston took over the
training program and painted her maroon and white -
the only one like it in the world.
One of the instructors onboard was Dr. Stephen Curley.
- For a dozen years, I sailed onboard the ship
as an English teacher.
And for 10 weeks each summer we went out.
And I suspect when you add up 10 weeks and multiply it by
12 years, you have an awfully long time I was onboard
that ship, probably longer than most of the Navy people
were onboard the Queens.
- NARRATOR: The students took classes and worked hard learning
how to command and care for the ship, and they traveled
the world while doing it.
The Texas Clipper went on 30 cruises, visiting ports
in countries such as Uruguay, Greece, Peru and Russia.
- The Queens never crossed the equator.
The Texas Clipper crossed the line four times and each time
there's a ceremony when you - you'd do things like put some
noxious onions from the galley on people's hair and shave them
with a wooden razor, and then splash sea water on them
to cleanse them.
And they worked really, really hard but there was a sense
of fun in addition to that.
- NARRATOR: In 1988, Ann Sanborn, a former cadet,
became captain of the Clipper, making her the
first-ever woman to be skipper of a deep sea
American merchant vessel.
The Texas Clipper was more than a ship, she was a teacher.
[inspirational music]
- Every ounce of that ship I loved.
Ships are the biggest things built by human beings that move.
And I think they move, they take care of us,
and ultimately they move us, in more ways than one.
- NARRATOR: Ships grow old and the sea stays forever young.
In 1996, after 52 years of service,
the Clipper was retired - the oldest active ship
in the entire American merchant marine.
[horn blowing]
After sitting and rusting for 10 years,
the Clipper was acquired by Texas Parks & Wildlife.
It took a year to thoroughly clean the ship and prepare it
as an artificial reef.
- DALE: We modified the hull for water circulation
and diver access.
Anything that could float off the ship or cause a
marine hazard has been removed.
This by far exceeds the amount of effort that's gone
into any one particular reefing project.
[helicopter whirs]]
- NARRATOR: Having received inspections and approvals
from the U.S. Maritime Administration
and the Environmental Protection Agency,
the Clipper was now ready for her final voyage.
- DALE: We towed the vessel out of the harbor.
It was just a sense of elation for a lot of people,
especially people who had served on the Texas Clipper
traveling the world.
- NARRATOR: This last voyage was a short one,
just 17 miles out from South Padre Island to her final home.
She had not been on the open seas for over 12 years,
but she did just fine and was ready the next morning.
[splash]
[chain clanking]
On November 17th, the anchor was dropped at the location
of the Clipper's new home.
The final few holes were cut for circulation of
water and sea life...
The flood valves were opened...
And the last man onboard was recovered.
- DALE: We're watching the ship sink and at that point
you realize that you've got a 7,000-ton piece of metal there,
it is just a huge sight to behold and, it wants to do
what it wants to do.
Once we were watching this thing go down, it was just very
impressive, it was the largest thing I have seen happen
and certainly the largest thing I've had the privilege
of working on.
[dramatic majestic music]
♪ ♪
- NARRATOR: After 63 years of floating on the world's oceans,
the Texas Clipper is now at her final port of call.
[majestic music]
- DR. CURLEY: This ship is going to be home to a new crew,
it's the flora and fauna underneath the water.
It's just as it was our ship it is going to be theirs as well.
I say farewell Texas Clipper, farewell Excambion,
farewell Queens.
You did one heck of a job and you're still doing it.
[cars passing]
- NARRATOR: Just east of El Paso,
past the cars and sounds of the city,
lies sacred ground.
[wind]
Hueco Tanks.
A small state park with the history of humankind here
for all to see.
[dramatic music]
These rocks were the canvas for humans dating back perhaps as
early as six thousand years ago.
Here there are more painted masks than anywhere else
in North America.
- There really is no other place like Hueco Tanks,
in terms of the nature and the number
of the pictograph images.
And for a tiny place of only 860 acres,
there's just an amazing number of separate pictograph sites.
- NARRATOR: Hueco Tanks is a sacred place for Native American
communities including the Tigua, Mescalero Apache, and Kiowa.
And before that, the people of the Jornada Mogollon culture.
[music]
- WANDA: This is one of several really special pictographs
at Hueco Tanks.
And if you look in the interior of the body of the figure,
you can see what look like lightning bolts, and the eyes,
they're kind of round, googly eyes.
This mask that we sometimes call starry eyed man has been
staring out of his little niche in the rocks for between
600 and 1,800 years.
Um, it's amazing that it's in such good condition.
[soft wind blows]
- NARRATOR: Unfortunately over time,
vandals damaged several pictographs with graffiti.
The thought was they could never be restored
back to their original glory.
- TOM: Yep, I'm ok!
- NARRATOR: That is, until now.
Scientists have brought their state of the art lab
to this sight, H.C.,
and they're here to look at the graffiti paint.
- Our biggest challenge has been here is we can't take
a sample which is typical for even works of art
like Rembrandts' and Leonardo's.
We can't take a sample off of the sacred paintings at all.
- NARRATOR: With this Raman Spectrometer and two other
high tech instruments, they can analyze the exact
makeup of the paint.
- TOM: So, move just a fraction to the right, just a very, very
small amount to the right.
- NARRATOR: This is something that has never been
tried before.
- TOM: Very nice, ah good.
Really good. OK!
You capture that Daniel?
- DANIEL: Yep!
- If the conservation is not done properly at this time,
the aging and degradation process
could actually accelerate.
It's critical to be able to make the identification
as to what current state of what the objects are
and be careful to conserve them as best we can.
[generator hums]
- NARRATOR: And that's where Andre and Bartek Dajnowski
come in.
Using the information collected from the Raman Spectrometer,
they're going to try something that has never been done
here at Hueco Tanks.
- BARTEK: There it is!
[laser machine turns on]
- NARRATOR: This is Castro.
- ANDRZEJ: I want to see the final result
right over here!
- BARTEK: Maybe right here too!
- ANDRZEJ: This is pre-Colombian,
and the graffiti is about 50 years old.
- NARRATOR: The plan is with laser technology, they will
remove just the top layer of graffiti, and leave behind
the original pictograph.
[zapping]
- BARTEK: We're using infrared light, and it's the similar
technology that's used in tattoo removal to take tattoos off,
so you can be very precise with the laser.
- ANDRZEJ: The work is going really well, it's really
difficult for me to stop because it's really exciting!
The work is instantly gratifying!
- BARTEK: Here, for example, this was graffiti coming down,
and as you can see right in this part this was all covered
with graffiti, we uncovered part of a pictograph here.
I thought this was just part of the A and that there was nothing
there, and then I'm finding that there is actually an image there
that we didn't know was there before, it's really exciting,
it's really satisfying.
[canyon wren chirps]
- ANDRZEJ: At first, we just came here, it was another place
that we were going to work.
But after just a few hours, it became not just another place,
it became really important place to me and it is a magical place.
It's, to me, more than just a project, it's something I feel
really closely attached to.
- BARTEK: I'm gonna go after this area, these guys,
and try to take them out.
[zapping]
You really have to pay attention very closely to the surface
and you literally see it coming off.
[zapping]
You know, you are aware of the fact that you could,
at any point, if you get careless, destroy something
irreparably, and it's lost to history.
It's been there for thousands of years, you're there to try
and uncover it, and if you are not paying attention to what you
are doing, you could make it go away forever,
so that's extremely stressful!
[zapping]
In this area right here, you can see that I have pretty much
taken down the graffiti layer and we are down
to the bare stone.
Up here this slight milkyness is some residue of the paint
still left behind.
And again in this area, we're almost at the stone by itself
and you can see that the continuation of the color
with the background is the same.
[spiritual Indian music]
[zapping]
[spiritual Indian music]
[zapping]
- WANDA: The vandalism that was done at these sights
took something away from Hueco Tanks visitors.
- HIKER: It's beautiful up here!
- WANDA: It took away their ability to experience amazing
ancient images in the way that they were meant to be seen
by the people who created them.
- WANDA: This project is a way that we can get that back!
[uplifting music]
♪ ♪
- ANDRZEJ: Maybe I'll just do this with more carefully
and slowly cause it looks like I'm uncovering something.
[zapping]
- WANDA: So the r is gone, the o is gone, part of c and a, wow!
We actually have never ever seen, not myself or anyone else
who works here, we've never been able to see this rock face
without this defacement on it.
This is the only way we know it because it's been here so long,
and we had such a belief until now that it was going
to be here forever, that it wasn't removable.
[zapping]
- The fact that we are able to remove the graffiti
and bring back the site to what it was before the sites were
vandalized is quite amazing because in a way we are turning
back a clock of time and making this site to be what the
Native Americans wanted it to be.
I think the first time in decades people will be able
to see the site the way it was meant to be.
[inspirational music]
♪ ♪
Let Passport to Texas be your guide.
Listen to the weekday radio series
and encounter fascinating wildlife.
Explore cooking wild game.
[sizzling]
Enjoy the country's best hunting and fishing.
[shotgun blasts]
Visit passporttotexas.org to find a station near you.
And remember, life's better outside.
[low rumbling]
[crickets, cicadas]
[crickets, cicadas]
[low rumbling]
[low rumbling]
[slashing]
[crickets, cicadas]
[crickets, cicadas]
[slashing]
[crickets, cicadas]
[rumbling]
[rumbling]
[creaking]
- NARRATOR: This series is funded in part by a grant
from the Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program.
Through your purchases of hunting and fishing equipment,
and motorboat fuels, over 50 million dollars
in conservation efforts are funded in Texas each year.
Additional funding provided by Ram Trucks.
Guts.
Glory.
Ram.
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