hello iI am Graham and I hope everyone is having
a great day, welcome to the final part in this video tutorial series
I've been running for new users to the Panasonic Lumix Fz80 or FZ82 to bridge camera
Now in this particular video, I want to look at shooting with flash with the camera
I'm going to look at it from a variety of perspectives from either the pop-up flash being used as a sole light source
To using that as a commander to control other optical systems, and then we'll look at some
Wireless systems which anomalously use a motive applies to setup
Let's look at first of all the pop-up flash
Now if you're going to use a pop-up flash and you have fitted a lens hood, which I've made recommendation to in previous videos
It's best to remove that lens out. Otherwise when you use a pop-up flash
And using a wide-angle setting you'll notice that you get in some shading on the lower portion of your images
So remove the lancets if you've got one fitted whilst using flash now to pop up the flash
You've got a button here on the top left hand side of your camera and just press that and that releases the Cobra pop-up head
Now the internal flash is fairly weak and as an operational range of about 3 to 5 meters
And with all these pop-up flashes you can have the problem of creating sharp shadows behind your subject. It's very flat unflattering light and
It's not really good for portraiture. But in some situations, it's the only light source you'll have to be able to capture an image
So it's better than having no light at all. So it is a useful feature in some situations
Now to use the pop-up flash with this camera there are a couple of caveats
They should be aware of first of all
If you're in the silent mode or you've got the electronic shutter set, you won't be able to use the flash
So you need to be in the auto or manual shutter position first of all
To set up the
internal flash
if you go to the record setup menu and on page 5 of 7
Halfway down that menu there. You will see the flash set up when you press menu set
It takes you into the first page of the flush menu and the first option to look at is the firing mode
now the firing mode can be set between
TTL which is through the lens metering and in that mode the camera will fire a pre slash
Measure the amount of light coming back from the subject using the sensor and then it will use that to create the final exposure
Using the main flash. So it's a useful method if you use new to flash
I'm not used to setting up the manual method the TTL control will give you pretty good results
If you wanted to have full control of your flash on your may want to user in a multi ply setup
Then the manual mode is probably a better way to set up the flash
But we'll talk about that when we're talking about multiple flash units. So we'll leave this set
first of all to the TTL mode now
The second option down is fire is the flash mode when you open that menu up you should have the four options
If you're only seeing the first two it means that you're in probably manual or shutter priority mode
You only get the option to use the slow
synchronisation or the slow speed
synchronization with redeye reduction
when you're in the aperture priority or programmed auto mode, so
For this particular exercise. We'll be in the a mode or the P mode
You can see there. We've got the lightning symbol, which is just a full flash. The next one down is the
redeye reduction
So the flash will fire a longer but a burst of light to know your eyes to respond to that bright light
Close down the iris
so you not seen the blood vessels in the back of the eye and so that you don't see this redeye in your pictures the
Next option is a useful one if you're shooting in low light or
Nighttime and you want to have some of the ambient lights take place in your picture?
Here in this photograph for some mushrooms. I've used the slow speed
Synchronization to allow me to capture ambient light plus the flash light from the camera to light up the mushrooms
Now beware that you could be using very long shutter speeds in this mode
So either use a beam bad--but
Beanbag like I was if I was going to be shooting the mushrooms or you must have the camera on a tripod
If you're going to be using it for long shutter speeds
But it is a useful method for getting ambient light into your flash picture and the final option
There is the software reduction of red so it looks into your image and if it sees red eye it will then
Change that to gray using the processing facility within the camera
So for this instance, we're going to select the top option, which is us the direct flash
The next option is flash synchronization, and it can be the first or second curtain
Normally, we would use first curtain but there are some situations where you might want to use second curtain to give you some creative effects
Now all this will be explained in the downloadable ebook
I produced with this series once I've updated the flash section
There'll be more information on all these settings that you can read at your own leisure
And I'm going to put a link to the download for that particular ebook in the video description of this video
Now with the TTL control, we've got flushed adjustment power of plus or minus - Evi or 2f stops
So if you're finding that the flash is under pad with your TTL because of the way it's monitoring your subject
If you want to boost the flash power use the plus
Evie or if the flash has been fooled and it's over exposing you can actually use the - Evie to reduce the flash power
on the second page
The main one to look at there is the wireless on or off now the wireless on or off
gives you access to control a range of
Panasonic compatible flash units which
Communicate using an optical method rather than the radio method so they have to be Panasonic specific flash units
One that I've got in here
Here is the Nissan eye 40, which is TTL controllable via the optical flash system
And that's a reasonable price gun and does give you TTL on camera and off camera
Facility
When we talk about wireless, we're talking about optical triggering and not radio triggering as we'll be using with the gotalk series
Which are a radio triggered system and don't have the problems associated with optical triggering such as not being a user in bright sunlight
talk about more about the wireless triggering when we look at external flight, so
Coming back to the first menu. We're in TTL. So if I fire now
Hopefully within the video if we in the insulation or the frame rate allows you to see it
it should see a brief burst followed by a full burst of light to
Capture this image. So if I just zoom the lens back a little bit now take the picture
If you dis notice there there was a brief pulse
followed by the main post to illuminate the subject
So that is how you'd use the pop-up flash
now in some situations you can use say a
Handkerchief over the face of that flash just to give you a little bit of softening or you can buy some pop-up
Clip-on diffusers which will fit in front of the flash head to give you a softening effect
So you're not getting such as intense hard edged shadows
Ideal for close-ups if you put one of those diffusers in front
It reduces the flash bar a little bit and gives you a larger surface area to give you that softer image
Probably your close-up flash pictures
now, let's look at that using a
on-camera flash and
That is just to give you extra power if you wanted to use it over extended
Distances or you wanted to use it to bounce the flash
From a ceiling or from the white wall to give you a better modeling on your subject
So again, I'm going to use the i-40 as a demonstration piece here
and again
It just slides into the hot shoot and will slide all the way and until it clicks and then when I turn on the power
And I set the gun itself to TTL
The camera will then control this flash unit just as it would its own internal flash
so again
If I take that picture, you'll notice as a pre flash from this unit followed by the final flash to give me the correct exposure
So you might be able to see that a brief pretty flash
Followed by the main flash now again, you can control the exposure
Of the flash either directly from the back of the unit or from the flash exposure compensation
within the camera menu
This particular unit is useful
In fact that you can actually use it in a manual mode as well so it can control the power
From full power down to one to fifty sixth of a par and you can also use it as an automatic flash gun the SEM
Is used to use with film cameras, you can actually set
This to the automatic mode and it will monitor the amount of light for the particular exposure
It's also got a built-in video light if you wanted to use this for video. It's a low power light but useful in some situations
so that's how we'd use the
Flash unit mounted on the hot shoe to give you extra power
If you wanted to use this in its bounce mode
Then you can nudge it tilt the head up
vertically
and if you wanted a card to put a little bit of white catch light in your
subjects eyes if you just slide up that card a little bit the
illumination comes in this card and it seemed reflected in the pupil of your
Subject so it gives you a little bit of extra highlights or catch light in your subjects eyes
But the purpose is to bounce it off the ceiling
I can actually bounce it from a wall if you've got a white wall to give you that extra bit of modeling rather than the
Direct flash. So again, if you're going to bounce it off the ceiling the camera will again
Calculate the exposure and give you the correct exposure based on the light coming back to the sensor
So this particular flash has got the optical triggering built into it if I just take that phone
clip the flash onto this stand
like set that to the
Wireless mode
so I'm going to select group a
So on the back of the flash unit, we've got a control wheel here
you set it into the red section, which is the optical triggered and I'm going to set it to
group a
With the camera, we're now going to that set flash setup menu and again on page two
We got the wireless mode
so it's going to turn that from off to on and
Then we're going to look at the wireless Channel. Now the wireless channel can be set to either one of four
So we've got channel 1 2 3 or 4
Normally you leave that set on to channel 1 unless you have an interference from other channels of the people using
Flashes in the same environment, but most likely you leave it on on channel 1
On the third page of that menu you'll see we've got communication light high
Standard or low if using the flash outside
You're probably going to be needing to use the high mode
Because we've got to overcome the ambient light if you're working in a studio or in your room then standard or low is probably sufficient
Or you could leave it on high if you wanted to
now in the wireless setup when you
Access that mode it will ask you do want to use the pop-up flash as part of the exposure now
Obviously the flash has to be up to enable this system to work
But you can have this to be just the commander or it can be part of your exposure
So you could have this as a fill light and also it will communicate the correct exposure parameters
to any slave unit
So in this particular case, I'm going to have the built-in flash as TTL as well
and I'm going to have the group any flash which this unit is on as
TTL as well
so now notice when I press the shutter, we will get a pre burst from the main flash on the camera, which
Determines the exposure will set the level of flash for both the internal and the external flash unit
So you should see a flash from both of these units
So that's how you would set up using the opto wireless trigger of the Panasonic system
now if you wanted to use the flash gun off-camera
You can use an extension cord
Now I've got on here and it's a canon
Extension cord. It's the same pin compatibility as a Panasonic one. It's a four wire system
so you'll find it easier to get older the Canon one, then you will warm which is
Panasonic compliant so a Canon TTL cable will do the job. So the
one end will slide into the hot shoe of your camera and then just lock that down and
The other one your Flash gun will fit into the hot shoe of the extension cord
So
Lock that down in place
I'm gonna set this bike to TTL because we want the camera to control the exposure
So with the flash on the extension cable
it means I can hold this at 45 degrees to my subject and forty-five degrees above it and that gives me a little bit of
Extra modeling the flash will again fire pretty flash and then the main flash to control the exposure
Now with the Panasonic bridge cameras, it's an in-between the lens shutter
so we're synchronized all the way across the whole shutter range so I can actually set a shutter speed of
A two thousandth of a second if I wanted to and it was still fire and be in synchronization with the actual image
with focal-plane shutters
You may find in some CSCS or dslr's then you may be limited to a 250th or three twentieth of the max
Shutter speed so this gives you an advantage you can actually use it in
Daylight and use it for filling flash or to balance with flush and daylight
So it does give you an advantage that you've got a synchronization speed across the whole of the flash range
So that is using the flash on a extension cable to enable you to get better modeling, but maybe you don't want the
Inconvenience of having the dangling cable which could be across the lens or you could trip over it
It's better to use a radio control system. And that's what we'll talk about next
Now my go-to flash at the moment for Panasonic cameras is the actual. Godox
Tt3 5000 range now you need to buy the camera specific flash unit
So they all designates that it's Olympus or Panasonic, but you can get n for Nikon s for Sony
there is C for Canon, so there is a range of
compatible flash units for different manufacturers cameras
But the beauty is once you've bought one unit that can act as a master to control any other flash unit
so for example here, I've got the
Nikon unit which means that I can actually control this unit from the tto
Panasonic unit because this to speak a common language between the interfaces. So if you like we're talking a
Olympus panasonic protocol between the hotshoe and the flash but we're talking a god ox protocol between the two units so it doesn't really matter
Whether there's an icon Canon or sunny flash unit, it will still communicate the correct information that the camera wants to make the exposure
with the flash unit
So if you've got a
Gt3 5000 unit. You can actually slide this onto the camera and use it as a regular pop-up flash
so with the flash mounted on the camera, it's just the same as mounting the
Listen.i 40 you've got complete TTL control of the unit
So if I turn this on
You've got the option to use it in the manual mode or the TTL mode or multi stroboscopic mode
So we're going to set this up to the TTL mode
So in the TTL mode, it's just the same as before
The camera files are pre flash to determine the exposure and then a main flash to set the exposure
So probably see there in the picture. We had the pre flash followed by the main flash and again with this unit
you can bounce or
Swivel to give you some extra modeling and again
You've got a wide angle diffuser if you wanted to make this wide and if using it as a bounce mode
You've got a catch light reflector. They're just the same as we had with the new Sun unit
But the beauty of this is that we can actually use it to control another flash unit
This will then communicate wirelessly using a radio system rather than an optical system so you can use it indoors
you can use it outdoors in bright sunlight and the system still works with a
interference from infrared
or suchlike
Interference that you'll get using it outdoors
so you need to set the
unit up as a master on the camera and the
Unit that you want to control would be set up as a slave and I'm not going to go through the whole process
I've actually produced a separate video on the go lock system and you can see how to control the external
flash units even some of the bigger
Flash units that gerak produce the ad 200 or the ad 600 all will communicate wirelessly
from the same unit
if you wanted to use a flight groups on more than you need to be using one of the
Go ducks triggers again. They need to be matched to your principal camera
So here the Panasonic you'd use the whole system which is Olympus Panasonic
You've got the x1 t or the X Pro
The x1 T is a little bit more difficult to use you want to got a single line display
where the x1 Pro you've got a screen here, you can actually set your
Five channels if you wanted to very very easily from push buttons on the unit
So this one's about twice the price of the x1 t but if you are going to be using it for a lot of flash
It's worth the extra frustration element to take that away using the excellent pro
so again
that would just slip on the camera in place of the flash unit and you'll be able to control your flash units again using the
wireless system rather than an optical system
There is another method of controlling your flash units that we alluded to and that is using
The manual mode of the camera and then you can use any manufacturers flash gun that supports the s1 or s2 protocol
S1 would mean that it would fire in synchronization with a post coming from the main flash
S2 means that would wait for the pre flash to finish and then would fire on the main flash
So you better set your camera up in the manual mode
So you only going to get the one flash and then set up your slave in the s-1 mode and again
Then you could vary the exposure by using your control panel on your external flash unit to set the desired exposure that you need
Again, all that will be covered in that downloadable manual that you can get from my photographic blog site and again a link to that
Will be in the video description below
So that way that's how to use flash with this camera
I've also produced another video for flash in the pond
At range of cameras and I'll put a link to that in the video description as well
If just flush out on some of the issues we've covered in today's video
So that's it for this series
I hope you found some elements of it useful and you are know producing some better pictures with your Panasonic Lumix episode 80 or
82 camera do check out my photographic blog and on the home page is the application to join that fortnightly newsletter of mine
It's more than a newsletter
It's also a technical publication covering bridge cameras CSCS and DSLRs from various manufacturers
So do check that out
Thanks again for watching. Thanks your patience, and I hope to see you all in later videos. Good. Bye for now
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