- Welcome to this week's Ask GMBN.
Now, the other guys are out riding,
so I'm holding the fort here in the Dirt Shed,
but I'm ready to answer your questions,
which, of course, we've been finding
in the comments section down below the Ask videos,
and from the hashtag askgmbn.
Let's get into it.
First question is from Matthew McDonald.
He's relatively new to mountain biking.
He's got himself a Specialized Enduro 29er, very nice.
He's wondering, is it worth him shelling out
on a full face helmet.
Good question, really comes down
to what type of riding you're doing.
If you're riding mainly cross country stuff,
or fire roads, full face probably isn't required,
but if you're riding gravity type riding,
bike parks, you're trying a bit of enduro,
end of the day, you've only got one face,
so it's worth looking after.
If that's the case, then a full face helmet
could be the right thing for you.
They're slightly heavier, of course.
They haven't got the same kind of ventilation,
but you could look at an enduro full face helmet,
which tends to be the lightest version
of full faced helmets, and it has got lots of ventilation,
so that could be worth a work at,
but think about what type of riding
it is you're doing, and if you really are requiring
that full face protection.
Hope that's helpful.
Next question is from Cosmic Cat,
and he's saying, should he change his two by 10 Deore setup
drive train to a one by 11 or one by 12 Eagle system?
Good question.
One-by is brilliant.
The SRAM NX and GX systems are pretty affordable ways
of getting into the one-by drive trains,
but I did ask Doddy about this, and he suggested,
what about looking at a SunRace wide range cassette
for your Deore drive train that you have at the moment,
and turning that into one-by system.
That's a really affordable way of doing it.
That's worth thinking about.
While we're talking about one-by drive trains,
let's take a look at the first time
GMBN had a look at that SRAM NX and GX system.
- SRAM had to re-engineer everything
to make this one by 12 system possible last year,
so from the chain to the chain ring,
the rear mac, and obviously, that cassette.
They actually found that they had made
their most durable drive train ever.
- All right, next question is anonymous, actually,
which is suspicious, but let's get into it anyway.
It's, "Hi, should I buy the Scott Ransom 930
"or any downhill bike?
"I enjoy downhill and bike parks, but I also want to pedal."
That's an interesting question because it's actually
very rare these days that you need a full downhill bike.
You can do so much with modern trail bikes
and enduro bikes, they're so capable.
For example, Neil loves his Scott Ransom.
He actually rode that at Finale EWS round this year
racing against all the pros.
That bike's so capable.
I think, unless you're riding solely downhill tracks,
then you don't really need a downhill bike.
If you want to do some pedaling uphill,
then something like a Scott Ransom
is a really good idea, or anything in that category,
because downhills do not climb well at all.
That would be my advice.
Maybe steer clear of the downhill
unless you know it's what you want to do.
Next question is from Robert McKinna.
He says, "I have a dilemma," nightmare.
"When I go riding these days,
"I feel like I've got no grip on my pedals.
"The pedals are about a year old.
"Could they have worn out,
"or is it the footwear that's wrong?"
He's got a thick sole on the footwear,
a bit like running shoes.
"Do I need a new pair of shoes,
"or have the pedals worn out?"
You know what, Robert, it's very unlikely
that the pedals have worn out
unless it's a plastic pedal or a solid cast metal pedal
without pins, then it could've worn down a bit
and got a bit slippery.
If that pedal has got pins, though,
it's very unlikely the pedal itself has worn out.
It could be the shoes and the pedal
aren't collaborating well together.
Maybe look at a different type of footwear,
something like a Five Ten, or recently,
Northwave have just brought out their new shoe,
which is a really great shoe.
It's called the Clan, and that shoe
is similar to a Five Ten.
It's got a really great sole
that's designed to work with pedal with pins,
or if you are using one of those cheaper pedals,
a plastic pedal or a cast pedal,
then maybe look at something like the Crankbrothers' Stamp,
that's a really great flat pedal.
Something like that is gonna give you
a fantastic contact point between the shoe
and the pedal itself.
Now, it's interesting that you brought up
that your pedals might be wearing out,
'cause let's have a look at a way
that you can get more grip from your pedals
in this video that Neil did.
- I think you actually really want
to run these pins quite low and quite close to the pedal.
If you start to pull them out too much
and run them really high, you actually get
so much grip that, if you occasionally
slide around on the pedal like you will do
on a really rough track, it's then really difficult
to readjust your pedals.
- Okay, let's keep going, 'cause we've got
some great questions coming up,
and we're also gonna be looking
at some Correct Me If I'm Wrong videos
later in the show.
Next question is from Michael Riggenmann,
and he's saying, "I'm from Germany,
"and I've been skiing since I was a little kid.
"I got some great skiing goggles, Uvex ones
"that are laying around."
They do work with his full face mountain bike helmet,
that they fit nice and snug.
Is it okay to ride mountain biking with skiing goggles?
If they fit pretty snuggly in that helmet, Michael,
then, as long as it's got a clear lens,
then it's probably fine.
The only difference you're gonna find is,
they're probably not as well ventilated
as a mountain bike goggle.
Obviously, they're for use in colder times,
so a mountain bike goggle would be better ventilated.
That'll be the only difference.
If you've got a tint on that lens,
the tint for a skiing goggle
is probably aimed more at white colors,
trying to help you bring out the contours
in the ground from lots of white snow.
That wouldn't necessarily help you on the trail
when you're riding mountain biking.
A mountain biking tinted goggle would obviously
be helping you bring out browns and greens
with that tint because that's what you'd be seeing
riding in the summer.
If it's got a clear lens, it could work.
If it hasn't, then probably wouldn't advise it.
Next question is from Big Boy, showoff.
"Can y'all explain why you don't ride BMX bikes
"on mountain bike trails?
"My dad's an old BMX guy and doesn't understand
"why people need expensive bikes with suspension."
You know what, Big Boy, I reckon your dad's trying
to get out of buying you a full suspension
mountain bike for Christmas, that's what I think he's doing.
BMX bikes are a very different beast
to a mountain bike.
They're actually designed, as much as they originated
in being the first kind of off-road bikes,
they are designed now
for riding quite smooth surfaces, skate parks.
Dirt jumps tend to be, actually, very smooth
except for the big gaps in between
the takeoff and landing.
Obviously, BMX tracks are actually very smooth
in terms of the actual terrain
that the jumps are built on.
They don't suit really rough, hardcore,
rocky, rooty, steep downhill tracks,
and of course, they don't climb well.
BMX geometry is not designed for you to sit down
and pedal easily up a hill, and the gearing,
of course, can't be changed 'cause BMX is single sleep.
There's lots of advantages to a BMX
on the courses they're designed for,
but when you take them out to an off-road scenario
that is true mountain biking,
they really don't work.
You'll find it quite a hard bike to control
and to use just in that utility.
Yeah, try a mountain bike for a day.
You'll probably see why that full suspension
and all those gears really work out quite well.
Right, Abram Schilling says, "So I've been trying
"to get my bunny hop higher."
Good for you, great skill to learn.
"But it's hard for me to get my weight back
"'cause I'm scared of looping out.
"Any tips?"
Okay, looping out on a bunny hop.
Now, that's actually kinda hard to do.
I wouldn't worry about it too much,
because it's not like a wheelie.
When you wheelie, you use your power
from your drive train, and you power the wheel into the air,
but on a bunny hop, you're rolling along,
and then you've just gotta lift that front wheel
just with your arms, your upper body,
and bending low at the rear, and bringing the front end up.
Now, to loop that out, you've gotta put
an awful lot of force in.
It's actually quite difficult to do.
On a bunny hop, you don't want your weight
to get that far back to the point you could loop out.
You're bringing that front end up,
and then, as it gets to about 30, 35 degrees,
you're gonna be lifting the back up,
so you're a long way from that loop out point.
You're coming in, and as it comes up there,
you're then gonna un-weight the back end,
and lift yourself up.
Looping out is pretty unlikely,
but let's take a look at this video
where I showed you how to build yourself a hopometer,
which would help you improve your bunny hop.
Let's take a look.
The best thing about using this is riding with your mates.
They're gonna push each other on,
and get higher and higher,
and I promise, the more competition
you get with that bunny hop,
the bearer it's gonna get.
Now, if it's okay with you, I'm not doing
a quickfire round this week because,
basically, I've got no one to quickfire at, you know?
It's like, "Jim is asking--"
Yeah, you get my point.
We have got Ryan.
He's riding a Trek Remedy in the New Forest
in the U.K., in Hampshire.
"I'm having trouble with my bunny hops."
Ah, this is interesting, 'cause we were talking
about bunny hops earlier on.
"When the bar gets to around 18 inches,
"I start to lose my footing on the pedals coming down."
That's interesting.
"Like the bike is falling quicker than me.
"How do I stop this?
"I feel I can go higher, but my technique seems okay
"over the bar until I'm coming down."
Well, this is interesting.
Let's take a look.
Nice, riding in a skate park,
our lovely slow-mo version
so I can really see what's going on.
Great looking bunny hop,
great looking biking kit, actually.
Oh, I see what's going on.
Ah, yeah, right.
Okay, so you're getting a really big bunny hop.
It actually looks pretty good.
Your technique's pretty strong.
I quite like how you're using
an up slope in that skate park
to help with your bunny hop
because that's a really great idea,
because you learn the bunny hop much quicker
if you're learning it on an up slope
that then levels off because it helps you
exaggerate the movement of leaning back and taking off.
Now, midway through your bunny hop,
it looks pretty good.
As I pause it there, and you level out, it's all great.
I think what's happening is that, basically,
the higher the bunny hop goes,
and you're doing, like you said, 18 inches there,
which is a pretty big bunny hop,
the higher the bunny hop goes,
you actually need to increase your speed because,
obviously, your bike's gotta cover a lot more distance,
and the more height you get,
you need more speed to cover the distance.
You're really stretching at this extreme height
to get up over the bar, but you haven't got
quite enough speed, so the bike's starting to hang,
and you're losing your grip of the bike
between your handlebars and the pedals themselves
because what you need to be doing
when you're at that top point
is be pushing forward and up with your wrists like that,
and backwards and scooping action
with your toes on the pedals.
Where you're losing speed, the bike's kind of stalling,
and you've lost that pinch of holding the bike there.
Slightly more speed coming in,
you'll need to be quicker with your timing
to get that height, so it's more of a pop,
but because you've got more speed going forward,
you'll be able to hold that bike in that position,
and clear the jump.
I hope that helps.
Try a little bit more speed, and really think
about exaggerating that twist with your wrists,
holding that bike up, and pinning it up
under your feet, and your feet are pushing back slightly,
and I think you'll be able to hold that bike there.
I hope that works, but it is
a great looking bunny hop at the moment,
so I wouldn't beat yourself up too much.
Now, lastly, for this week,
we have got Andrew, who's riding a Specialized Enduro Elite.
This is at Chicksands, also in the U.K.
"Got a friend to film me on this jump at Chicksands.
"I want to progress, but I always feel
"like I'm going to fly over the bars.
"It also feels awkward, and I'm kind of
"out of control slightly.
"Any tips?"
Right, let's take a look.
Lots of speed.
Oh, litter jitter before takeoff.
Oh, whoa, yeah, you got a little bit
out of control there as you landed.
You got kinda kicked out of the landing.
What happens when you get kicked,
okay, here's the bike again.
As you come out of the landing, the back end got kicked,
and that's because you basically didn't move
through the takeoff right with your timing over the bike,
and your weight, as the front end come up at the jump,
your weight sat back down into that rear end,
and then it all compresses.
Then, as you come out the takeoff,
it releases, and throws you.
Your weight kinda gets bucked forwards.
I ride in a seated position all the time
because I'm a wheelchair user,
and I'm strapped into my bike,
and I get bucked all the time.
What's happening to you is something
I'm dealing with all the time.
You get bucked out at the takeoff,
and you tend to find yourself not quite make the jump
because it's taken all of the speed
and inertia out of that takeoff.
You basically go up, and then you land
just before the down slope,
and then you get bucked that second time,
which is what happens to you there.
As you come in, I can see,
you're coming through the takeoff,
you get bucked, boom,
and then you're bucked again as you're landing.
It's almost compelling the situation
to happen down the trail.
To avoid it on this jump, now,
that jump is actually kind of on a track
that requires a lot of speed,
so you'll probably find you'll get a little bit unsettled
before you get to that takeoff,
so it would be worth thinking about that obstacle
that's just before that, and trying to get
a smooth run through it so you've got
your timing right on the takeoff.
In that jump, you don't need to be going that high
because it's not a big, kicky takeoff.
You'll actually probably find that you want lots of speed,
and want to try and keep it low over that jump.
I'd come down through it with more speed,
think about getting the obstacle before it really smooth.
Then you'll have more time for that takeoff,
and you'll fly across that jump
rather than get lots of height,
'cause it's not a jump designed for a lot of height,
but the speed and that low trajectory means
you'll hit the down slope perfectly,
and carry on down the slope with excellent style.
Thanks for joining us on Ask this week.
I hope those answers have been helpful.
Please, give us any questions you've got about riding
in the comments section down below,
or in any of our videos.
Put #askgmbn, ask us a question.
If you've got something you'd like us
to take a look at, one of your riding videos,
then please upload it to our uploader.
The link is in the description down below,
and you can see it on screen just there.
Follow that, and you can upload
to the Correct Me If I'm Wrong tab,
and we can take a look at those videos,
and try and correct you if we possibly can.
Once again, thanks for joining us.
Hit the Subscribe button just here,
where you can stick with us and get
all the notifications about when our new videos are out.
Click just here to see Blake teaching Si Richardson
over from GCN how to ride a pump track.
Great video just there with lots
of technique and skill in it.
Other than that, give us a thumbs up like,
and I'll see you on Ask another time.
Take care.
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