Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day. Welcome to my
beginner's guide series for the panasonic lumix FZ300 / FZ330
Now in today's video we're going to be looking at the iA and iA plus modes.
Now if you're just joining the series have a look at the download section and I'm
going to put a link to that in the video description below where you can download
the guide for this series and you'll be able to follow along also I would have a
look at the introduction to the series as there we set up the camera with some
specific menu settings so that if you are following the course you'll get the
exact setup that we've got without worrying if you can't achieve the setup
that we've got in the system at the moment. So today we are going to talk
about the intelligent auto mode and it's a mode I recommend that you start off
with if you're a new user to the camera it gets you familiar with handling the
controls and more importantly it learns you how to recognize some of the
failings that the iA mode has. Having said that it does give you the
opportunity to create fantastic pictures and in good light and with average
situations you'll get good keepers from the resulting image sets. It's only when
you stray outside the norms that you'll start to struggle with the iA mode
because of its ways that it works but more about that when we come across the
specific circumstances. So what I want to do now is explain exactly what the iA
and the iA plus modes are. Now the intelligent auto mode is a facility by
which the camera will judge the exposure and the type of scene that you are
trying to take based on scrolling through an image database trying to match what
it's seeing coming through the lens. So it has the opportunity of being able to
look for landscape, portrait, food, sunset those sort of things and set optimum
conditions within the camera JPEG processor to give you good results
straight out of the camera. If it can't find a match in the database it just
uses a straightforward metering to give you the exposure. If we look at the scene
we're presented with now on the screen you can see I've got a couple of dolls
sat on my initials and a doll in the centre. Now if I half press
the shutter button you notice that the camera has determined that we are in a
macro mode. It's just the distance between the camera and the nearest
object and said this is close enough for macro shots so it dialed in the iMacro
mode and when it does that it sets certain conditions for the camera. So it
will set the aperture which is best for macro and, dependent on the amount of
light it's seeing, it will set an appropriate shutter speed and the ISO
Now I'm going to talk about the exposure triangle and if you've downloaded the
beginners guide right at the very back of that is the exposure triangle and all
exposures are created from those three components - the shutter speed the
aperture and the ISO and each one of those will affect the image in a
different way. Now the ISO governs the sensitivity of the camera system to
light. The more sensitive it is the higher the number you'll see on the
screen. So that this camera goes from say ISO 100 to ISO 3200. The higher the
number the higher the sensitivity but the downside of that is you'll get grain
or noise on the image. The lower you can keep the ISO number the better the
imaging result will be. The aperture will govern the amount of sharpness in the
picture from the foreground to the background and we call that depth of
field and the shutter is responsible for capturing that light for a specific
instance to give you that right exposure and shutter speed will govern the amount
of subject motion blur if the subject is moving. Here we've got a desktop
situation where there is no movement so the camera in it's iISO mode won't be
looking for subject motion so it would set a fairly low shutter speed. Now if I
half press the shutter button you can see that the camera is going to give me
an exposure of 180th of a second at F 2.8 - You can't actually see the ISO value
until we take the picture. So what I'm going to do now is take that picture and
I'll use my remote release to trigger the camera so we don't get an image shake
on the camera and I've got the review set to "hold" so the screen will stay on
the camera as long as I want it to. So for that particularly shot you see the
camera used an exposure of F 2.8 so it's used the widest aperture the camera
has. It used a shutter speed of 180th of a second and the ISO it used to make
the exposure correct was 320. You notice on the screen that have got image
stabilization turned off and that is a recommendation if you've got the camera
mounted on a tripod. The image stabilization if it's turned on can
actually give you image shake even though the cameras not moving. So if you
have the camera mounted on a tripod or it's on a monopod or on something solid
turn off image stabilization. You notice I've also got the camera shutter set to
E-shutter. The electronic shutter prevents any vibrations that might occur
when the mechanical shutter fires. So if you can switch to electronic shutter if
you've got it mounted on a tripod then you actually help yourself by alleviating
any vibration from the shutter mechanism. In this camera it's telling me I am in
the iMacro mode. It's telling me you've got a standard photo style because we
can only choose between standard and monochrome remember in the iA mode and
the meter mode is the whole area. You can see from over on the left hand side it's
used the whole area metering. If I come back to the shooting screen what you may
notice is when I press the focus button is the camera is focusing on and the
nearest subject and that is usual with this type of situation. In the automatic
mode it tends to favor the subjects which are nearer to the camera so
anything near to the camera will receive the best focus. So if I wanted the doll
in the background to be sharp as well unfortunately with this situation with
an aperture of f28 that doll in the background may not be as sharp as the
one in the foreground. Now to overcome this problem with the camera always
trying to focus on the nearest object you can specifically tell it where you
want to focus - if you go into the background defocus mode and you can go
into background defocus directly by pressing the function 2
button. When you press function 2 you notice you would get a screen appearing
which is the shutter speed and the aperture value. You notice the moment the
aperture value is f 2.8. If I go to f4 which gives me slightly more focus from
foreground to background - and I can do that by turning the top control dial or
I can use the left and right navigation keys and now when I press menu set it
will lock that value into the camera memory and you can see that we've got f4
now on the screen and there's a little symbol there that shows me that we're in
background defocus. Now it will hold that value in its memory even if you turn the
camera off. If you select background defocus again it will come back to the
value you've set - so that's a useful feature if you want to always have the
camera set to a specific aperture - and f4 is the sharpest aperture this camera has.
So it might be worth keeping f4 as the default in your background defocus mode.
You'll notice now that it's also brought up a focus area. It's a fixed focus area
you can change its position but it does give the opportunity now of moving
that focus point anywhere on the screen - and to do that you use the left hand
navigation button - the one with mark with the four-way cross on it. So it's the
left-hand button. If you press that you notice now it can change its position so
if I wanted the camera to focus on this doll in the middle I can set the focus area on
that particular one. Notice I can't change its size - there's no facility to
give me a size position. I can take it back to the centre by pressing the
display buttons - so if I pressed display it will put the cursor back into the middle
but again by using this left hand navigation key I can move the position
of that target. Now when I take that photograph it will have focused on the
area in the middle. So we now can change the focus point - so now if I wanted the
background doll to be in focus I can change this focus position either by
using the cursor button to move its position or I can move it by touching on
the screen. So I can drag that over to the area that
I want to be in focus. When I take the picture the background doll will be in
focus. If I wanted to cancel this background defocus that's being held at
f4 if I press the function button Fn2 and then press it again. You notice now it's
canceled out and if I half press the shutter button you notice the camera
goes back to its F 2.8 state. The iA mode also supports subject motion tracking - so
for example if you've got something that's moving in your subject and you
want it to stay in focus like if you had a dog running around the scene and you
wanted to track the dog - then you can use this method to make sure that the camera
always focuses on that dog! Now the way you can set it up is multiple ways. You
can use the 4-way navigation dial, you can use as a touchscreen or you can use
the focus button on the side of the camera. iF you use the focus button on the
side of the camera you'll notice it brings up a target area. Now what you do
is position that target area on the subject that you want to be tracked. So
I'm just going to reposition that so it's on the doll. Now I'm going to half
press the shutter button and you'll notice that that target area goes to a
smaller one and it will be highlighted in yellow. So I'm going to half press
the shutter button - you notice now we've got a image over the doll which is going
to be tracked if the doll moves. So if I move the doll you notice the camera is
now tracking it - and wherever it moves on the screen the camera will lock focus,
and I could take that picture and that doll would be sharply in focus. It will
continue to track it until you cancel it by tapping the AF lock or pressing the
side button again. So now we've come back to setting our target. By default the
camera is setup for the 49 area focus so it will try to find focus on any one of
those 49 points - with a closest point being the highest priority. But it's also
set up for face detection as well. So if I was to bring in a
subject which has got a face - if I bring this photograph you know just that
immediately the cameras recognized there are two faces. I've actually gone through
the process of face recognition and I've actually assigned a name. So my name is
there. It's recognized me in the picture and it set me as the principal focus. If
you notice my grand daughter here is highlighted as it's being recognized as
a face but there's no name to it so I haven't actually recognized her within
the camera setup - but my name would appear there because that has been
recognized in the face recognition software. It also focuses on the eye, so
for if the eye is clear enough in the image you'll notice that there's a white
graticule which is on the eye which is closest to the photograph. So it's got
face detection and eye detection to make sure you get the sharpest focus. So if I
press the shutter button it will a focus directly on that picture. If you've gone
through the process of face recognition if that face appears in a group of
people say at a wedding reception and that person is on the back row the
camera will identify that face and it will set the focus on that face. So you
can use that to prioritize focus in a group of people. As I said in the
introduction the iAmode uses an internal database of images which is
used to compare to what's been received through the lens. So for example when I
turn from the program auto mode to IA you will notice that the camera
immediately identifies the scene as a close-up - and you will see a blue icon
which stays blue for about two seconds and then turns to red to tell you that
it's in the close-up mode. If i switch to IA
you'll notice that the camera has recognized a close-up. It was blue and
then its gone red. So that is the conditions that it will set up for this
particular image. I've now changed the subject that we're filming - so I'm in the
program Auto Mode again and you notice the cameras already picked up the fact
that we've got a face in this in the system. It's picked up the face and it's
highlighted the eye so we've got the crosshairs on the eye.
Now if I go back to the iA mode and it would do this if we're directly in the iA
but I'm doing this to just show you what happens - you'll notice we get the blue
icon again which tells me in a portrait mode - and then that will change to the
red. So the camera has identified that as a portrait. So having set up for the
portrait condition it has a slightly in the rich red tone, it smooths out the
skin a little bit- so there's a little bit of softening goes on but that's the
way that the camera recognizes a portrait mode. Again if I take that
picture we were to see that the camera is focused on the eye and you can see
the conditions again has got the same exposure 180th of a second F 2.8 and the
ISO in this case is iso 200. You can use the display key to give you more
information about that image - so if I press the display key we get a smaller
image so we can see what the image is but it tells me now I've got the
aperture, I've got the shutter speed, whether there's been any brightness
correction, that in the moment is not, the white balance is automatic white balance
and that is always the case when you're using intelligent auto it always uses
automatic white balance. Tells me the ISO, tells me the focus mode - which is auto
focus single area. The Image Stabilizer was off and things like intelligent
resolution and intelligent contrast have been turned off. Tells me the mode that
we took the picture with - so it was the portrait mode in the standard photo
style and got some information down here about the aspect ratio and the picture
size or a 16 to 9 large picture size, fine JPEG quality and the type of file
was sRGB which is the standard for printing and internet. Tells me the image
number which would be 1180165. Tells me the time
the image was taken and the date. Press the display button one more time and it
gives me that information in a condensed form for the exposure but it also gives
me a histogram - broken down into the red the green and the blue components and
the illuminance - "Y" stands for illuminance. It also tells me were a hundred and seventy
seven images on the card. We'll come back to the histogram when we
start to talk about the manual features of the camera. Press the display button
again and again you've got a full-screen view of the image, press display again it
goes back to the standard screen. So twe've looked at background defocus and the way
that we can change the aperture to vary the amount of depth of field or the
amount of focus between the foreground and the background. On the screen now you
can see some real-world examples where I took a portrait of this statue in a
local park. The first picture is with the background defocus set down to f 2.8 and
I've got a slightly telephoto setting so I've zoomed out to about 400 effective
millimeters focal length - and you can see that the background is nicely blurred. So
we've got a nice subject there - it stands out against a blurred background. if I
let the camera have its own way in that bright sunshine it would have chosen f/8
and you can see the difference between f 2.8 and f/8 because the background is a
lot more sharp and the subject doesn't stand out. So you can use this background
defocus control to give you the opportunity of setting up a large
aperture. Here you can see some flowers - again though it took using the same
method - set the camera down to F 2.8 set the telephoto to a position to full
telephoto (times 24) and you can see the background is really out of focus
and it makes that subject in the foreground really stand out. But switched
to f/8 again you can see though the background is still in a defocused mode,
because we're using that 600 millimeter lens, but again it's more sharp than if
we use the F 2.8. So you can use that to your advantage if you want to
make plants or similar subjects stand out against the background. So we've seen
background defocus control. Now the other one is the color tint and the color tint
control allows you to change the bias of the picture when we want it warmer or
colder and on the touch screen you'll notice we've got the iA symbol and if we
touch the iA symbol you'll get a panel come out which has got the color tint, the
background defocus and the brightness correction. Now if I press color tint you
bring up a scale which goes from warm to cold. "A" is warm and "B" is cold and if I
slide that to the left or to the right using touch screen - or I can use the
navigation dial - or I can use a top control dial, your preference, - so if I
wanted to make this picture a little more yellow - more warmer I can move the
operating point from the center over to the left hand side - and that makes the
picture a little bit more yellow. If I wanted to make the scene colder - so if I
wanted to create a scene which would look colder I can move the operating
point over to the right hand side. So if I take the picture in the middle and
then I followed bias over to the left hand side and take the picture and
then wash it over to the right hand side and take the picture you can see the
change in those three images - and a real world sense again in the park I took
these two pictures one with the camera set to the fully warming position and
the other image is the one that's now set to the cold.
The other control to consider is the brightness control. So if I touch the iA
symbol on the touchpad - you notice now we have this symbol here which is the
plus and minus - and that allows us to change the brightness of the image. In
real terms what we're doing what's called exposure value compensation - but we're
actually changing the brightness of the subject. The camera always tries to make
the subject a neutral grey - so with all the colors are in the photograph it tries to
make them into a harmonized 18% reflectance, neutral grey - and that's the
card that I've got set up behind this little doll now. If I take this picture
were wii see the exposure - and it's again 180th of a second F 2.8, ISO 200. Now
look what happens when I change that gray card for a white card - simulating
what would happen if you were to take a portrait outside in snow. You will now that the
doll's face has gone slightly darker. If take that picture you see the exposure has
changed. It's gone from 180th to 100th and their ISO has got from 200 down to 100.
So we're now really under exposing this picture by one stop because we've gone
from ISO 200 to 100 and we've gone from 180th to 100th so we are about one and a
third stops under exposed- because the camera is looking at a white card and
that's influencing the metering. So you would get this if you're trying to take
a portrait in snow or again on a beach scene where you're your skin tones match
the sand you could have the same situation. So to correct for that if we
come into the brightness control we've got the facility to go between minus 3
which makes the subject darker or plus 3 which makes it my lighter. I've already
established that we need to go about one and a third stops - so you can use the
navigation dial or the top control dial or the touch screen to change that value. So
I'm going to go by one and a third which is what I thought we
would need based on the exposure that the camera was given me. So if I take
that picture you can see we've got exactly the same exposure that we have
before F 2.8, 180th of a to the second ISO 200- and you can see on the screen that we've
got this exposure value compensation now of one and a third stops. So you can
change the way the camera reacts dependent on its background. Now if I
change that white card for a black card we will get the reverse. So I've now put
a black card behind - and you notice the camera has made this subject really
light. Let's take off the exposure value compensation - first let's put that back
to the center point. You notice that the background isn't black- it's trying to
make this again into a neutral grey component. If we look at the exposure
- you can see that he's change the exposure to ISO 400 so it thinks the
situation is darker and it's increased the exposure again by one complete
f-stop it's gone from iso 200 to iso 400. So for us to correct this scene I would
need to go into our exposure value compensation again - so again I want to
reduce the sensitivity - because it's increased the sensitivity to 400. I
want to make that subject back to normal by one f-stop I can use the navigation
dial top control down or I can use a touch screen - so I'm going to use the
slider and I'm going to go down one f-stop. So now if we take that picture ---
We're not quite there yet we looking at ISO 250 - so we want to be about
another 1/3 of a stop. So again it's like the white card that was plus one
and a third the black card is minus 1 and 1/3. So again if I take that picture
we've now come back to the exact situation f 2.8
180 of the second and ISO 200. So if we looked at the baby in all of those
three pictures the face would be the same shade as the white card the gray
card and the black card - it is because the background is influencing in the way the
camera metering circuit is telling the camera what exposure to use. Now there is
this facility in the record setup screen called iHandheld night shot - and the i
handheld night shot takes a series of exposures and then combines them into
one image so rather than it shooting say at a fifth of a second to get you an
exposure it will take 30th of a second and make multiple exposures and then combine
them to give you less noise and more brightness. It works to an extent -
providing there's no subject motion. So here are some images that I shot at
Blackpool yesterday with the illuminations. The camera was in the I
handheld night shot mode - you can see multiple images are captured and because
of subject motion they appear as streaks on the image - so ideally you can only use
this for a static subject. Anything that's got motion in it will appear as
blur on the subject. It will only work in the handheld condition- if it's on a
tripod it won't enter the iHandheld night shot mode - it knows that it's static and
won't enter that mode - so you've got to be handheld to enable this mode! So far
in the iA mode we've not talked about any video at all - I'm saving the video
for a special video only section and we'll talk about how to set up for video,
how to use it in the iA mode and all the other modes. You can see the difference
but it's such a complex topic I'd like to keep that for one special video
sequence. Well that's the end of the iA tutorial - have a look at it in the
guidebook and see if you can make sense of the settings that we've made today - in
particular the color tint - something you might want to use. Certainly background
defocus is one that you would use quite a bit and the brightness correction
again is something used a bit. So get to know how to enter those
modes and get out of them, how to set them up and use them to the better
advantage. It does give you the opportunity to correct some fantastic
images in the iA mode and extend its usefulness by using the iA plus mode
- which is now the default on the FZ 300/330. So until the next one where we're
looking at the Program Auto mode - thanks very much for watching. If you're new viewer
pleased do subscribe and hit the like button - and then have a look at my
photographic blog - again there's a link to that in the video description below -
where you can have a look at all the other topics that's been written on the
FZ 300/330. Have a look at the download section - there's some
information on the 330 there. There's also the downloads guide that we are
talking about here in this video and on the home page is the application form
for the three weekly newsletter. It's more than a newsletter - it's more of a
technical article. If you've not subscribed to that - fill in the
subscription form and you'll receive that every three weeks. So thanks again
for watching please do take care and I hope to see you all in the next one! ....
Good bye for now!
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