- Good morning, I hope you're having an amazing day.
It's Mark Wiens, I'm in Peshawar, which is an ancient city
in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan.
This is a city that I, one of the cities that I most wanted
to visit in Pakistan because they're known
for their food culture.
It's an ancient city.
And so today we're gonna go on a food tour of Peshawar,
eat a lot of street food.
We're gonna explore the ancient markets and traders.
And so it's gonna be a full tour of Peshawar.
We are gonna start for breakfast
and I'm gonna share all the food with you
in this video today right now.
(upbeat music)
Hello, good morning.
- Vikas.
- How are you?
We're at the Hashtnagri Gate
in the old, ancient city of Peshawar
and this is where we're gonna have breakfast.
This is, we're just gonna walk around for a little bit.
- We just have a quick halwa puri here
and then the place which is for the payes
is, you know, just five centimeters away.
(speaking in a foreign language)
(food sizzling)
- Quite a bustling stall here.
They are flying on the puris,
but they're deep frying the puris.
This place is known for their halwa puri,
and yeah, it's pretty, very well-known, actually.
It's packed in the morning.
(speaking in a foreign language)
So there's always three components to this dish:
the puri, which is the fried dough,
the halwa, which is the sweet semolina pudding,
and then the chana, which is the chana masala,
which is the chickpea stew.
(speaking in a foreign language)
Conditions are a little bit tight in here.
I'm gonna grab one of the puris.
I'm gonna start with the chana, the chickpeas.
Oh, the chickpeas are amazing here.
Some of the chickpeas have disintegrated into the sauce,
but others are still remaining whole.
It's so flavorful, you can taste that desi ghee.
This is the halwa made from the semolina,
and also desi ghee,
And it has kind of an orange color to it.
(people speaking in a foreign language)
Mmm, yeah it's like a pudding.
Less grainy than other versions that I've had, as well.
Sweet, but I prefer the, I prefer the chickpea.
Some of the better chickpeas I've had.
A small little golf ball,
flattened golf ball-sized sweet puri.
Oh yeah, it's like a little pastry cake.
(engine puttering)
Breakfast was good; it's a little bit on the oily side,
to get the morning started.
But it is, I especially like the chickpea curry.
We're gonna move on now to eat another breakfast dish
that you cannot miss when you're in Peshawar.
- [Ali] This place is called Naiki Paye.
This is a legendary--
- Naiki Paye
- A very famous Paye in Peshawar.
- Oh ho ho ho, yes.
Okay, this is the, this is gonna be the real breakfast,
and you can already smell the meatiness of it.
(speaks in a foreign language)
Has to be one of the coolest stalls I've ever seen.
Ho ho ho ho, that's the meat.
(laughs)
(men speaking in foreign language)
(spoon scraping clay pot)
(upbeat music)
Person grabs, fishes out some of the meat
and some of the trotters.
He kind of scoops that around,
puts that into your bowl
and then he reaches into the giant, tilted pot,
clay pot, and fishes out some of the soup,
and then puts that on top,
and then finally finishes up with some desi ghee,
which looks like it's infused
with chilies and oil and spices.
It looks so rich, so comforting and warm.
One of the more beautiful looking red oily dishes
I have ever seen in my life.
And you can just see the meat,
it's just, it's just ultra falling apart.
So you've got the combination,
it's like 50 percent of the cow foot
which has just been rendered down
into just gelatinous floppiness,
and then 50 percent of the meat
which is just, it just looks like stringy,
stringy fall-apart tender.
Ho, ho, ho, it's just, you can't even, it's so tender.
And just dripping with the desi ghee and that spice.
Look at that meat.
Okay, I didn't even get any of the trotter on my first bite,
but that's just the meat.
Look at that.
(upbeat music)
Mmm, oh the garlic in there,
you can really taste the garlic.
That's so rich.
It's so oily.
And that meat is so tender.
It's just like all oozey-goozey things all together
in one single bowl,
that you can tell it's been stewed for so many hours
until it just completely harmonizes together.
And then just wrapped up in more just like liquid meat.
That's going to be jiggly.
(upbeat music)
Whoa.
The liquid collagen.
That trotter, it's just,
I mean it's the skin and fat combined.
But it's so soft it just melts in your mouth,
but you've got every kind of like
oozey, gelatinous, like jelly texture
in your mouth all at the same time.
- I always used to think that the Bhawra had the best payas,
but I think Chowry's has even better payas than Bhawra.
- Look at that chunk, look at that chunk I just pulled out.
Oh, and you get things that hang, just gelatinous bits
that just can't control themselves.
It's like one of the richest,
but most flavorful dishes I've every had
and that's just like pure glorification of meat.
Another thing that you'll notice is
that the bread here, the tandoori roti,
is thicker than most versions that you'll have,
and that's because you actually need it.
It helps because you have to mop up all of that ghee,
all of the oil, all of the fats,
all of the gelatiney trotters.
You gotta mop that all up with the bread.
And so you have to have that thick, spongy bread.
(speaking foreign language)
It's a tradition to drink green tea in Peshawar.
So you'll see green tea all over.
I am sure we'll be drinking more green tea today.
And what's great about it though,
is it's just not green tea,
they also crushed a few pods of cardamom in
and boiled that within the tea
so you've got that essence of cardamom.
- [Mark] Shukeriya.
(speaking foreign language)
That was amazing.
Oh, shukeriya, shukeriya.
One of the top dishes that I've eaten so far in Pakistan.
The garlickiness really stood out to me.
And then just the, I mean the trotter was great
because it was so soft and oozey,
but the actual meat is what I enjoyed the most.
From here we're off to just walk around
the historical center of Peshawar.
It's an ancient city and this was an important market place,
which has now been restored.
It's actually quite, kind of calm and peaceful here today.
(motor bike puttering)
Nice to meet you.
(upbeat music)
(engine puttering)
We made it to the clock tower which is a landmark.
And the clock tower was built in the year 1900
by the British to celebrate the Queen Jubilee.
(motor bike puttering)
I've got just half my butt on the seat,
so I've gotta balance here.
But we're gonna go to the other side
of the walled city, the old city,
because there's a very iconic and very ancient mosque
that we're going to check out.
Everyone's in the back.
Hello Micah.
- Micah, hello.
(speaking foreign language)
(upbeat music)
- Whoa, that was a sharp turn.
Okay, we're heading down an alley, whoa ho ho.
(motor puttering)
(upbeat music)
That kind of rattled around those trotters in my stomach.
We have just arrived.
- This is Masjid Mahabat Khan,
located in Andar Sheher,
which is basically the old city of Peshawar.
- And this is an ancient mosque in Peshawar.
- Yes.
- [Mark] Okay, step inside of here, and it's just
this calm courtyard with marble floors.
And what's really fascinating is the front of the mosque
with the minarets and just the detail, and the doors.
Everything is white, but then the doors,
they have some blue tiles in them.
It just feels that you have taken a step back in time here.
- [Micah] Come on, come on!
(upbeat music)
- Okay, so we've walked over to what is, in English,
is the Storytellers Bazaar, but in--
- Qissa Khawani Bazaar.
- Qissa Khawani.
It's called Qissa Khawani Bazaar,
which is famous for storytelling.
Since ancient times, this is a market,
this is a bazaar area where people would,
traders would come, especially along the silk road, right?
They would share their stories, drink tea--
- [Vikas] Bhindi qehwa.
- Green tea, which is called qehwa.
So that's what we're going to do,
we're going to walk through the bazaar,
we're going to have some green tea, and, yeah.
Very cool history, very cool place.
(motor puttering)
Just stepping down this alley,
maybe it's going to lead to another street,
it's kind of mysterious.
(speaking foreign language)
(pots clanging)
(water bubbling)
The green tea.
(man speaking in foreign language)
The key ingredient that you have to have with green tea
when you're in this region is cardamom.
So he has a little mortar and pestle,
he crushes the cardamom to release that flavor,
plops it into your tea, lets it boil and simmer.
It's going to be really nice.
(pots hissing)
Oh, he's pouring it, okay, I better get there.
(people conversing in foreign language)
It's just an open floor space area.
People used to get tea, drink tea, tell stories,
just hang out.
- [Together] Cheers.
- [Joel] Cheers, man.
(speaking foreign language)
- Ahhhh,
it's so good.
Just that pure,
I mean it's so freshly boiled,
but the cardamom, that's what really makes this--
- [Man] Yeah.
- And part of the entire experience
is watching them make it,
because that's such a unique way to make the tea.
It's really, and just the ancient tea kettles.
I'm sure that makes a difference with the taste of the tea.
- [Mark] Thank you.
Shukeriya.
- [Vikas] Shukeriya
(speaking foreign language)
- Well, that was great.
Most people in Peshawar speak a language called Pashto.
And the name of the dish that we are about to go eat
is called?
- [Vikas] It's maguvha, basically brains
and in Urdu you call it maghaz.
- [Mark] Oh, in Urdu it's maghaz and in Pashto?
- [Vikas] Brain masala.
- [Mark] Brain masala.
- In Pashto, it's saal maguvha.
- That's what we're gonna eat next
because we just saw a man who is selling it right up here.
He's gonna make it fresh.
(speaking foreign language)
- [Man] This is buffalos brain.
- [Mark] Buffalo brains, nice.
(cooking flames whooshing)
(food sizzling)
(spoon tapping in pan)
(food sizzling)
Okay.
We saw the plate of brains
and we just could not pass by him without ordering
a plate of brains, it's like scrambled brains masala.
Got some fresh tandoori roti.
(upbeat music)
- Mmmmm,
ho ho ho ho ho.
Ho ho ho, that is sensational.
The brain is so creamy, and like mashed up scrambled.
You've got the tomatoes, the garlic,
and the coriander in there really comes in nicely.
Wow, that is impressive.
And fried so fresh and hot.
That's incredible.
Okay next up I'm going to try some of that chutney.
I'll touch the bread with the chutney.
It's like a tomatoey chutney and then grab some of,
after that grab some of the brains.
It's okay to do it something like this?
- [Man] Yeah, yeah, it's the way you do it.
- That's the way you do it, okay.
That is,
that is amazing.
And then with that chutney, that like adds
the cooling, refreshing element to it.
What I really like is the freshness
of the chilies and the coriander in there.
(upbeat music)
- Huh, huh, ho ho,
mmmm.
Okay, I could understand if a Peshawari man,
thinking of this, dreaming of this in the winter.
- Oh wow!
Oh wow.
- [Mark] That is amazing.
- I mean I would have regretted it
if I had not tasted this thing.
- [Mark] Yeah, you would have regretted it.
- It's amazing, full marks!
- Unbelievably good, like the brain literally just melted
into that sauce and masala and desi ghee.
He is a master of brains masala.
And that entire brains fry cost just 90 rupees.
So, that's like at the moment 122 or so to the dollar,
so that's like 75 cents.
- Yeah.
- For that plate. - Yeah.
- Whoa.
What a spot, what a dish.
- I'm not surprised it was awesome,
but man, it was awesome!
- [Mike] Hahaha, yeah.
- [Joel] That was so awesome.
(energetic music)
- [Ali] Peshawari cap.
- [Mark] Ah, Peshawari cap.
- You want to try one?
(exciting music)
- Nice.
- It looks good.
- Nice, I like that design.
- You look like a local, we have loved Peshawars so much.
We have decided to look like locals.
- [Mark] Yes.
(upbeat music)
(speaking foreign language)
(machine whirring)
It's so frothy, it's so, look at that,
just, there's no sugar or anything in it.
Just purely squeezed pomegranate seeds.
Ho ho ho ho!
Oh, that's incredible, naturally sweet.
You've got that sourness, but the froth, whoa, man!
I have never had that good of pomegranate juice,
it's almost banana-ey,
and like the perfect tartness and sweetness.
- [Joel] It looks like an orange, you know,
and it's obviously a citrus.
But that flavor is incredible, and it is,
at first taste, obviously it is not an orange,
it's like lime, like the father of lime, basically.
- It's a mamong in English,
I believe, or something along those lines.
And he just freshly squeezed it.
Mmmm,
mmm, to me it's more lemony,
but not really lemony either.
You can taste the bitter pith flavor of it, like a lemon.
(road noise)
(pan clanking)
Okay,
ho ho ho ho.
The next place we're stopping
on this ultimate food tour of Peshawar is to eat
Peshwari pulao, and pulao is very famous in this region.
It's a rice dish, you can smell the spices.
There's chickpeas in it, there's raisins,
there's chunks of meat.
They actually, I think they make it that big pot there,
they cook it in the pot and then when they serve it,
they put it into this big metal serving bowl.
(man speaking in foreign language)
Okay, great.
Just have some low stools to sit on.
I'm going to put it onto a little stool.
And then you can see he got some meat in there,
there's some chickpeas,
you can see the spices as well in there,
right out of the pot.
The raisins, or the sultans, they just provide
enough sweet and tartness to contrast the saltiness
of the rice and meat, really like, really aromatic.
And that beef in there is so good,
and just like a hint of black pepper taste in there as well.
- That tops any Sunday roast I've ever had.
That, that is comfort food.
- [Mark] Yeah, this is good.
(upbeat music)
(speaking foreign language)
- Directly outside from where we just ate the pulao,
there's a man who is selling two different dishes.
The main pot is lassi.
The other is saag, so he has a pot of saag,
which is like a wild spinach.
He topped it with chili flakes, he serves you the saag
in a little bowl with a unique type of bread
that I haven't seen before.
And then he whips up your lassi.
(metal and ice clanking)
(speaking foreign language)
- [Mark] Okay.
- [Man] Like this.
(liquid pouring)
(liquid sloshing)
(man speaking foreign language)
- And serves it to you in like a metal bowl.
Whoa, oh wow, that is so cool and refreshing.
That's like buttermilk, frothy too.
Oh yeah, that's great.
Tastes like liquid cottage cheese.
You've got to try that, that is awesome.
- Yeah, it smells, it smells cheesy.
I was expecting it to be at least a bit sweet.
It's not sweet at all.
Yeah, that's great.
- Okay next I'm going to try some of that saag.
And that's a really thick bread, it's like a cornbread.
Okay, grab a bit of this.
Oh, and it doesn't feel buttery,
it doesn't feel like there's desi ghee in it,
it feels more, like, watery.
Mmm, mmmm,
very nice.
Well that's just like pure.
You just taste like spinach
and then the dried chilis in there.
Really healthy tasting.
- Mmm.
- [Mark] So healthy tasting.
- So healthy, so nice, very nice, mm hm,
and the spice just kicks in a bit late, but yeah.
It's a good after taste.
(upbeat music)
- Wow, that's just like the pure lassi,
just straight, like, drinkable cheese.
And just look at this,
look at this scene.
We are on the side of the road.
There's just people all around, surrounding us.
Man, the people here are so nice, so friendly.
They've welcomed us in.
- You from Thailand?
- [Mark] Thailand, yes.
- I know, I see you in Thailand.
- [Mark] Thank you very much.
Peshawar is, what a city it is, what a city.
Bye-bye.
(energetic music)
(upbeat music)
We've arrive to an area called Namak Mandi,
so Ali was just explaining to me
that Namak means salt, Mandi means market or bazaar.
So this is probably, it definitely has history
as being a salt trading area.
They're known for their meat in Peshawar
in this entire region.
(speaking foreign language)
- [Mark] How are you?
- How are you? - Fine, thank you.
This is the main one, this is the legendary spot.
Animals are just hanging out here,
literally hanging out.
(metal clanging)
- [Ali] So we will choose the portion of meat
which we want to have.
- [Mark] Ah, okay.
- [Ali] And they will cut it in front of us.
(speaking foreign language)
- So you choose your chunk of lamb,
and we're going to get a couple of different dishes,
I know we're going to get some stuff on the grill
and then also a karahi,
which is the rounded skillet pan.
- [Ali] Because of the skewers, skewers it.
(meat sizzling)
(utensils tapping)
(pans sizzling)
- And they're also making the kaharis in the front here,
but look at this chicken display!
It's 360!
Oh, I just bumped into a car.
A 360 chicken rotation, around a barrel.
Ho, ho, ho, that's amazing!
(pots clanging)
(food sizzling)
So he's making the lamb kahari here.
You can see tomatoes are going here,
and just the fat is just sizzling out into oil.
Oh, here comes in some chilies.
(men talking in foreign language)
Oh, yes, okay.
Wow, that looks and smells incredible.
It just sizzles in its own fat.
Oh, the tomatoes, yeah.
And we walked past the duck underneath the chicken,
360 chicken formation again.
But we have put in our order for the kahari and the grill.
And that's going to take about an hour to cook
because it has to cook until it's really tender.
So in the meantime we're going to go over
to this really well-known place where the local sandals,
which are called the chappalis, chappala?
- Yeah, this place, they make Peshwari chappals.
- Chappals, chappals, okay.
- Peshwari chappals have been famous for long,
but this specific shop is famous
because the Prime Minister of Pakistan, Imran Khan,
he got a chappal designed for himself here.
And he buys from this shop.
- Chappals, so that's the next fashion accessory
that we need to get.
- This chappal is now a brand.
- [Ali] And there's a story behind this chappal,
when the Prime Minister wanted a chappal,
he asked some of his friends in Peshawar
to get him a chappal that has a thicker sole.
So the guy came here and asked the shopkeeper
to make a chappal with a slightly thicker sole.
- [Mark] Wow, cool.
- But the shopkeeper ended up making a chappal
with too thick a sole.
So he told the guy, I have made a mistake.
The sole has become too thick, so you might as well
take this chappal to the Prime Minister,
who knows he like it?
So when they took the chappal to the Prime Minister,
and he was like, wow, this is so good.
- [Mark] Oh, okay, cool!
- [Ali] A world famous Greg Turr.
- [Mark] Oh, yeah.
- [Ali] And this is the Prime Minister of Pakistan.
- [Mark] And this is the Prime Minister of Pakistan.
- And you can see the Prime Minister's picture over there.
- [Mark] Yes.
(speaking foreign language)
- They make everything by hand in this little shop.
Oh, I thought that was a stool, but that's a giant battery.
Okay, and this is very, very cool.
- [Ali] This is the extra thick sole.
- [Mark] This is the Prime Minister's one?
- [Ali] This is the Prime Minister's one.
- [Mark] Oh, extra thick sole.
- [Ali] Extra thick sole, yeah.
- [Vikas] And look at its weight, it's light.
- [Mark] Oh, what a sandal.
- [Ali] Yeah.
- Try this on.
Oh yeah, I think this one is a little bit small.
(men talking in foreign language)
Sandal, I've never done this much sandal shopping
in my life.
I think I've decided on these.
What do you think about these?
These are awesome, I even took off my socks.
Yeah, these are the ones right here.
Immediately you can feel the airflow,
the airflow in these sandals, right?
You can really feel the airflow.
- The toes have chilled out to a new level.
- I hope the people in Bangkok will love these shoes.
- [Mark] Oh, yeah.
- And they'll ask you about them.
- They are so comfortable.
- They are extremely comfortable.
Very foamy, very cushioned, they have a great cushion.
- [Vikas] The dumba kahari will be ready.
- [Mark] The dumba kahari will be ready.
- From head to toe, we are the Peshwari boys now,
the Peshwari boys.
(upbeat music)
(speaking foreign language)
- [Man] Whoa!
- Yes.
So we're sitting in this section.
We got a whole booth with a carpet.
And the meat should be ready.
We got two different dishes.
They prepared the lamb in two different ways.
One is the kahari, with all the spices and the tomato sauce.
One is the grill, so those are like the rib sections
that have just been grilled up.
(laughing)
- Ultimate position for eating, hahaha.
So the grilled one is called the tikka.
And these are lamb chops.
- [Together] Cheers.
- Mmmm.
- It just fell off, I didn't even bite it.
- It's just everything you want in a lamb chop.
It's so tender, I think it's mostly just salt.
There's not like a marinade of spices.
It's just the pure meat roasted over charcoal.
The dumba kahari, lamb kahari.
And there's, yeah, you can see how they just reduce it.
They reduce it, they keep on cooking it
until it reduces into a thick sauce.
Whoa, ho, ho,
the kahari does it again.
This one is just very tomatoey,
and you've got just big chunks of lime there.
You can really taste the green chiles in there too.
Follow that with a spoonful of raita,
which is the yogurt infused with coriander.
Mm, mm, oh, like the dill flavor, in that right now.
That completes the experience in your mouth.
And not to mention, both dishes complement each other, so,
oh, is that some raita on my chin?
And once again, got some Peshawari green tea
to finish off the meal.
Whoa, that's hot!
Oh, the cardamom is always so nice,
it always just hits the spot.
And actually this is going to be the end of the meal.
This is going to be the final meal of this tour of Peshawar.
From here we've got to move on.
What a day it has been in Peshawar.
Ahhhh.
It is time to utilize the cushion.
Oh, ha ha ha.
- [Ali] This is my signature position.
- So your signature position is like this.
(laughing)
(upbeat music)
- [Joel] The design is so simple and cool.
- [Mark] This has been one of the greatest cities
that we've visited in Pakistan.
The culture, the ancient streets, the action,
the colors, and the energy.
and the people that we've interacted with,
has been amazing, and this has been some of the best food.
I mean, Peshawar, I wanted, specifically wanted
to visit Peshawar because the food is so well known
throughout all of Pakistan.
And I want to say a huge thank you to Vikas,
He's local from here, he's brought us around,
and he did a lot of planning for us.
And also to Ali for arranging everything,
including our entire trip to Pakistan.
So I'll have their links in the description box.
Thank you so much for watching this video.
Please remember to give it a thumbs up if you enjoyed it.
Leave a comment below, I'd love to hear from you.
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Thanks again for watching.
See you on the next video.
Oh, Peshawar, you are great!
(speaking foreign language)
Peshawar, Peshawar.
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