hey everyone my name is Matt. Welcome to my shop. so I finally have a new outfeed
table I got the SawStop in the shop almost two years ago and when I got rid
of my old saw I got rid of my old outfeed table with it because that table was
actually too tall for this saw the saw is three inches shorter than my old
table saw and the miter slots are a different spacing so at the very least I'd
have to like replace the top on the old outfeed table anyway so I finally
did it. I finally have an outfeed table and I've really really missed having the
storage and the functionality of things not falling off the back of the saw as
I'm cutting them so before we get into the build I want to say a big thank
you to rockler Woodworking and Hardware for sponsoring this build they provided
all the hardware for the build all the jigs to make the whole build go more
smoothly as well as a bunch of accessories to make the outfeed table a
lot more multifunctional in my shop so let's get started. So I'm gonna start by
making the top and I'll sized the base to fit the top once I have this thing down
to its final dimension because I don't know exactly how wide it's going to be
at this point so this is a slab of ash that I cut a few years ago I posted a
video a couple years ago I'm picking this log up and slabbing it in my
backyard with a chain saw and I'll leave a link to that video if
you want to check that out. So first off I want to trim this thing down closer to
its final length it's still about a foot longer than needs to be right now on
this end I have some kind of weird goofy thing where the log was cut and then on
that end I had some rot that I want to remove so I'll go ahead and make those
two cuts first and then I have some defects that want to start filling with
epoxy
some start filling defects here on this side which is going to be the bottom a
lot of these cracks don't go all the way through something to worry about the
epoxy pouring out the bottom which is actually the top side and over here at
this rotted area it is fairly hard but it is kind of loose and I want to
stabilize this a little bit to make the flattening easier it's over there just
pour on some epoxy and allow it to soak in I'm not really worried about actually
filling the defects so much as I'm worried about stabilizing them so I'm
like I'm working on filling defects on this side which is going to be the top
side but down here and it's not there's a couple pieces of steel I'm not sure if
these are nails or some wire or something but they're embedded in there
and I was going to pull them out but I decided I'm going to leave them in there
and it's epoxy around them I think this is gonna tell a little more of a story
of this wood and kind of yeah I cut the wood I cut through here I didn't know
these were in here at the time and they didn't do anything to my my chain or
anything but just kind of a cool memory I think I want to leave in there so now
on to get this thing cleaned up and flat I've stabilized the slab on my flat
assembly table with some shims and I'll start making passes over it with my
router slit now the router will work this thing down until the whole service
is flat but I think what I'm gonna do is flatten most of the bottom side since I
don't really need the whole thing to be flat or cleaned up just mostly flat
especially in the areas of the contacting the cabinet later on and I
think what I'll do is when I flip the slab over I'll probably just flatten
most of the top surface of course avoiding that steel in there but I think
I want to leave some of the saw marks in the slab itself I did something similar
on the waterfall tables that is built I left some of those saw marks in there I
think it's kind of a cool effect especially on the ones like this that
we're chainsaw mill those saw marks are a little more distinctive than say like
a band saw mill so I think there's just kind of a cool look and just kind of
gives a little bit of a nod to the fact this was cut from a log with a chainsaw
and then just come this way I didn't just go down to the store and buy a slab
it was sawn out of a tree now that I have a better idea for the final
of the slab to the top I can start working on the cabinet so I went out and
picked up a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood which are used for the cabinet ops at
the bottom is the sides and vertical divider I also picked up two sheets of
half inch plywood which we come to cabinet back and these four boxes the
nice thing about cabinet work like this is that a lot of parts have like the
same width collection to break down those sheets into strips I'll break down
all three sheets into those various strips and I'll set aside the half inch
stock for now and just focus on the 3/4 inch stock for the carcass for these
ones that break down those strips further people bring them into the shop
and then cut them down to their final size with a cable saw so the outer
joinery on this cabinet is going to rabbits so I'm setting up my dado stack
with sacrificial fence to cut the exact width with plywood thickness and about a
half inch deep
so what those rabbits all the way I've adjusted my fence to make the rabbit in
the back of the half-inch plywood and then once I'm done with this rabbit the
last thing to do would be to cut the dado in the top and bottom for that
vertical divider so I don't have a piece of wide enough the divider but I do have
this off cut that's twice as long as I need and half as wide so I'll use that
and some glue to make up the stock for the divider that's efficient use of
materials right there okay so let's see how this thing fits together and get a
final size for the back
so this is looking like it's ready to be glued up before I do that I'm gonna pop
the back off and drill the Shelf pinholes these smaller cavities can
receive some open shelves as a team is in storage space right where the jointer
is I can't put drawers there or a door but having some open shelves the kind of
nicest or you know whatever over there and having these shelves in place will
wabun make better useless having one big open cavity so I'm going to use the
Shelf pin jig to drill the holes this jig can also be used after the cabinet
is assembled but since I have the option of doing it before gluing all together
I'll have a little more room to work from both sides so everything looks like
it's fitting pretty well the back pops in place really nicely
so it's about time to get some glue on this thing get in the clamps and get it
all glued up
where so I takes care of the plywood cabinet construction and the next thing
at once are working on is the facing so that would be the edge banding for all
of the edges of the case as well as the drawer fronts and the material for that
I have is some box elder got a bunch of this stuff I might as well use up for
this project I have some really nice boards that have some really nice flame
to them and a little bit of curl that I'm going to use for the drawer fronts
but I do have this guy here which is a little more on the boring side and I'm
gonna use this one to make all the edging for the cabinet so I'm gonna
start breaking this one down into the strips will become the edge banding
materials for the top bottom sides and vertical divider so it's to get milled
down to thickness of the plywood which is around 23 30 seconds and then I'll be
cut down to 3/4 of an inch wide to install the edge banding I'll apply glue
and use some tape to help kind of clamp things in place I also have these bandy
clamps from Rockler what to provide a lot more downforce than the masking tape
does and really do a lot of the clamping while the tape kind of holds things in
place I'll start with the side since they're running all the way from top to
bottom then I'll cut to fit the top and bottom piece and then I'll cut and fit
the divider which will fit between the top and bottom so now this thing flipped
upside down on the bench and started adding the base hardware I have a
leveling foot as well as a caster the leveling foot is getting great for
getting a stationary and getting the whole cabinet up to the right height so
it's the right height for the table saw but you can also drop it down to the
casters when you want our wheels thing around which is super convenient
so because the casters obviously add a lot more height than these guys which
are meant to go on to the side of the cabinet like that I put together this
little little razor block thing a riser block that's just made from some more of
that scrap boxelder i've made the edge banding from and these are just joined
together with some really fancy steel dowels that are serrated and have a
fancy decorative head so I want to get the leveling foot out to the outside
here and I want to put the casters in behind here to keep them as wide as
possible to keep as much stability as possible
there instead of moving them over here because it'd be too close together and
it's the really tip used to try and wheel it around for a deeper cabinet
that wouldn't be a problem you can put the casters out on the side I don't put
them over here so I have a little nosh on the bottom here so the caster sits as
close as possible to the riser so with all that said I can attach the risers to
the cabinet and attach the leveling feet and the casters to the cabinet the
risers just get attached with some glue and also add a couple risers in the
middle above the vertical divider and now I'll support the center of the
cabinet so it doesn't have a tendency to sag and while I have this thing flipped
upside down I'm going to drill the holes to the top which will allow me to
connect the actual top the slab top to the cabinet so the captive portion is
all done some notes are working on the drawers so it's back to the plywood so
I'll start by ripping the strip's though become the sides and Front's of all the
drawers now my bank of drawers has graduated so no two drawers have the
same height so the cutting different strips for every single drawer and once
they had little strips made I can cut them up into the individual pieces for
each drawer the two sides and the front and back now the joinery for the drawers
is gonna be exactly the same as the joinery for the cabinets the front and
back will get rabbited to receive the sides and then all four of those pieces
that got rabbeted on the bottom edge to receive the drawer bottom this makes for
a really strong box because the whole thing is glued up the bottom is glued in
there as well and the bottom itself helps to square up the drawer as you're
putting it together this method also makes it really easy if you're using any
kind of drawer hardware because the front and back are cut to exactly the
right size so there's no kind of guesswork and trying to add in a
thickness of the size or a joint or anything if the front and back pieces
fit between the two drawer slides that's exactly what fits you're going to get
once the drawer is assembled before I assemble the drawers I must
start the installation of the drawer slides something I can do is to install
the drawer boxes into the case immediately after I do the initial
assembly letting the glue dry while the drawer box is inside the case and that's
just to make sure the drawer Rock should fit nicely in the opening and if there's
any kind of weird racking or out of squirts of the case either from the case
itself or due to the slides or anything like that the drawer is gonna conform to
geometry and it's gonna operate nicely and flawlessly
now the actual assembly on the drawers is pretty easy just apply glue to all
the rabbits and I'll pin everything together with a pin nailer and with
those slides already installed in the case I can go right from the assembly
table and install that Robox threat length of the case this also makes it
really easy to store the drawers while the glue is drawing because they're all
the way and I don't have a bunch of drawer boxes laying around my shop as we
flew is just sitting there waiting to dry so all the drawer box is all
assembled and installed next we can move on to the facing I'll go on the Front's
of these drawer boxes to hide the hardware and make the whole thing flush
with the front surface of the whole cabinet so for that I have some more
boxelder I think these might be cut from the same tree is the edge banding but
these two boards were cut from the same log I have one that was edged and one
that has the live edge this one here has a lot more color and interesting things
going on I'll be able to get the whole bottom drawer front as well as the bill
to get both the first and second drawer front by splitting a board in two so
I'll have a continuous green for the top two drawers and then for this third
drawer here I can get that out of this guy here which doesn't have doesn't have
as much color but it does have some interesting kind like bird's eye kind of
effects so we're on here so I think as will still be interesting in its own
right so I'll get this boards kind of laid out
rough broke down and then get them all milled down and you start getting stays
cut to fit to all the openings get them attached to the drawer fronts
with all the appropriate gaps and space between each drawer front and I think
they'll be about it for the cabinet section with the exception of installing
the handles or the poles on the actual drawers so to get the drawer fronts
fitting correctly and the gaps were on the outsides nice and even consistent I
have a few shims that I'm gonna use as spacers so as I work my way through the
drawers I'll put these shims down on the
previous drawer front or the bottom in the case of the bottom drawer cut one
end of the drawer stock nice and square set that in place get the gaps on the
sides correct and then just mark the location of the cut on the other end so
once that cut is made I can double check to make sure that the width is correct
that I can clamp the drawer front to the drawer box and install it with a few
screws to the back and then I'll just continue this process until I've
installed all of the drawer fronts this is looking really good well that's open
this is looking really great I am super happy with the look this
color on here it just looks absolutely beautiful now normally this kind of
stuff I love shop furniture I take more of utilitarian approach of things I'm a
little bit on the pragmatic side I would not apply finish to shop furniture
because it's shop furniture whatever but I think there's a lot of cool colors in
here so I'm leaning towards actually applying finish this thing for the first
time in my shop furniture history but this is about it for the whole cabinet
construction now contains thing over to the table saw area and I start working
behind get on top attached and start working on all of these stuff that's
gonna go into the top itself
so I spent some time right here with my card scraper last night just having some
fun a little bit tear out here in the top but I still had to clean up a little
bit but more importantly I got the slab situated and oriented on the cabinet
exactly as I wanted to be that was ready to be attached to the actual cabinet so
I can transfer the hole locations that I had drilled previously from the cabinet
to the underside of the slab and then drill the pilot holes in the slab I'm
going to attach the slab with some of quarter-twenty bolts so I'll tap the
holes in the owner side of the slab to receive those bolts that go in places
flap onto the cabinet and bolt it in place so before I get too far ahead of
myself I just remember I still need to cut the slab down to his final length
get those ends trimmed up and cleaned up even though it doesn't really matter I
guess so with the bolts installed just like two of them to align it I'm just
going to mark out where the cabbages on the slab so I can make the cuts nice
and parallel to the cabinet now I'm reality it doesn't really matter what
the angle on the end is or if the overhang over the sides is the same on
both sides or from front to back doesn't really matter as you know if your table
it's not that big a deal but I might as well make it look somewhat nice so next
up are the relief cuts for the miter slots so right now as is if anything was
in the miter slots here and came off the back of the saw it would contact the
table top and you won't be able to push whatever you're using through the saw so
to get these things laid out into the correct position I spent a little bit of
time getting the tabletop or the whole table exactly where it needs to go so I
have the left the right position set I have the front the back position set and
I also use the leveling feet to bring this table up to the correct height for
the table saw so the transfer the location that will slot to the table
that's going to take these pieces of tea track in these slots and just trace out
the outline of where they would go now I do want to make these slots a little bit
wider just going to be a lot easier to reposition this table if you ever move
it if that slides a little bit wider than if it's like super tight and like a
precision fit so I'm just going to off the eyeball this just going to use this
T track as a straight edge and this extended
about 1/8 of an inch on each side now the other thing these slots is they
don't need to go all the way across the whole table they can stop you know
halfway or somewhere in there and to figure out where that's gonna be I have
my crosscut sled here I'm just gonna see where this thing kind of ends up if I
were to totally make a cut there so this is the kind of end point
so one last thing I'm going to do to the top is install some t-track this will
give me a little more flexibility with the surface allow me to clamp things
down to the surface use it as a little more of a multifunction area than just a
straight boring horizontal surface so I want to install a piece of track along
the front edge and then one along the side edge at a 90 degree angle to each
other just to give me some more flexibility there with things I can do
here if I want to do some assembly here or something like that so since I don't
have any straight edges to reference off of I can just run the whole tabletop
over my table saw for instance I'm going to screw down the T track in exactly the
right position so I can make sure it's exactly square and then I'll wrote the
dados for each of the t tracks I'll but two straight edges up against the T
track remove the T track and then use a pattern bit in the router to route it
perfectly sized data for that T track exactly where that T track is going to
go
so I did end up deciding to apply a finish to the Elfi table so I went ahead
and took everything apart I'm just going to apply two coats of armor seal to the
table just to mostly bring out the color I don't really want to build a huge film
finish on this else'll dolana be applying finish for a long period of
time so just a couple of coats that's really all is it gonna need that first
coats gonna be a good seal coat it's gonna bring out the colors and the
second coat will just be just to kind of even things out to make the sheen a
little more even overall so I'm looking forward to getting to finish onto this
thing because I think a lot of the pieces of wood on the selfie table are
really gonna pop when I see some finish so I got this whole thing reassembled
and I added these poles which I think look pretty nice up against the boxelder
and I think overall this thing's just looking pretty awesome it makes being
out here in the space a lot more welcoming and I just feel good being out
here creating things and it's really nice to have the outfeed support again I
gotten so used to things falling off the back of the saw I didn't really know
what I was missing so not having to worry about that anymore is certainly a
really nice plus now on top drawer of the cabin I have all the T track
accessories so if I need to do anything with the T track OSF is right there this
is something else I'm really looking forward to in the past this area has
been a lot more multi function for me this is the area where I look at my
chain saws and things like that so having different ways to clamp things
for that it's gonna be super nice I'm having the caster's as well as a lovely
feet on the bottom of the cabin the shop like this is super handy for me at least
I don't move the stuff around that often but when I do or when I have to being
able to drop these things down after the casters makes moving these things so
much more convenient I have the same exact setup on my assembly table I've
had that there for like five years now I have not put it onto the casters to move
around but the day I have to is the day I'll be
really happy that I added those casters to the bottom of that cabinet one thing
I did to make it easy to put these things back if either of them ever move
is on the floor I just drew out an outline of where the leveling feet are
with some permanent marker I also drew up the outline of a table saw and of
course since the miter slots are oversized they'll have to get back into
the exactly the same position but those little markings on the floor make that
process it's a little bit easier so I think that's about it for this one
thank you again to wrap it for sponsoring this video I'll be links to
everything you could possibly want in the description down below so thank you
as always for watching I greatly appreciate it so many questions or
comments in the Elfi table anything here in my shop please feel free to leave me
a comment as well to be happier to your question you might have until next time
happy woodworking
No comments:
Post a Comment