Hi! It's Heather from Thicketworks. Today we're going to be creating this Gothic
Funeral Coach. It's over-the-top, it's ostentatious and it is so much fun to
build! I hope you'll join me...let's get started!
Gypsy Soul Laser cuts is a great little company and they manufacture the kit for
this funeral coach. I've created some printables that are free for you to
download - there'll be a link in the description. The kit comes in a flat pack
like this, and the first step that I'll be taking is to coat all of these cool
pieces with spray paint. Now, most people who create this type of
kit will tell you not to paint the pieces where they join - but if you're
using light coats of spray paint you won't have any problem. I'm using
Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover in semi-gloss black. Once the spray paint
has dried, it's time to gussy it up!
The detailing around the center hole for the axle gets hidden, so you needn't
bother with that. To stay oriented while building the kit, try to remember that
the small wheels go in the front, and the large wheels go in the back - and the
wheel supports for the small wheels are the large ones - the wheel supports for
the large wheels are the small ones! It will make sense in a minute. Once these
two wheel supports have been installed on the bottom of the main panel allow
them to set up for a few minutes. The area with the two horizontal slits that
you can see here represents the front of the coach. You can clean up any sharp or
rough edges with an emery board. The main deck for the Gothic Funeral Coach is now complete.
We can set this aside and concentrate on preparing the axles. Begin
by sanding each one of the axles lightly with a medium grit sandpaper. I'm just
using 80 grit paper here, and making sure that we get rid of any imperfections
along that exterior surface. A thin layer of candle wax applied over the sanded
surface will make sure that the wheels will roll smoothly. Wipe away the excess.
...And now we're ready to install our axles. The chipboard used in this kit is very
sturdy, but it's still important to remember that when you're applying force
to it (like we are here) you'll need to support those chipboard flanges...so as
you press the axle through the aperture make sure you're providing support so
that the chipboard doesn't get warped. This is optional, but I'm going to be
adding rubber grommets to both the inside and the exterior of each of the
wheels. I'll be using these 3/8 inch diameter rubber grommets to hold the
wheels securely in place. They also act as spacers so that the wheels when
turning won't rub against the body of the Coach.
Install the wheels over the first set of grommets. Once they're installed, add an
additional set of grommets on the exterior. This will ensure that the
wheels stay in place and travel along a straight and true path. We're not using
any adhesive here, so if you need to remove a wheel for any reason you can
easily do that. Grab your gold paint pen and add gold detail around those
exterior grommets - no one will ever suspect that they're rubber! While the
paint dries we can get busy on our fancy windows. This printable has been printed
out onto a laser transparency. There are two small panes of glass for the rear
doors and two larger panels - one for each side of the coach. I'm cutting them out
with a paper trimmer. For this operation I've chosen to use Zig 2-Way Glue that
comes in a squeezable pen - and the reason I've chosen this glue is because it's a
dry adhesive. In other words, we apply it wet like this, but then set it aside to
dry for several minutes - maybe 10 minutes - it will change color and become
transparent when it's at the dry stage... and that's when you can apply the
acetate or transparency to the surface of this adhesive. There won't be any glue
squish out, and it will be a nice firm invisible bond. This adhesive is also
repositionable (at least for the first few minutes), so if you make an error when
lining up the motifs, don't worry - you can carefully peel it off and try again.
I didn't trim the edge of my window panes properly before installing them...
but it's easy enough to come back in with a sharp knife and remove any excess
material that might interfere with the construction. I've selected an oversized
damask background stamp and black superfine
embossing powder to create a black on black patterned paper that I'll be
adhering to many of the surfaces. This panel from the kit represents the roof
of the coach - this piece perfectly represents the size needed to create a
patterned paper cover for the interior floor of the piece. Patterned paper is
also used to cover the vertical wall that separates the driver from his cargo.
You can add as much or as little paper as you like - just make certain not to
cover any of the exposed tabs with the paper. I think that looks pretty cool... I'm
also adding pieces of the patterned paper to either side of the drivers
bench. Tiny hinges are just too difficult for me, so here's my hack: use a strip of
electrical tape! It's a perfect shiny black to be unobtrusive, it will hold
very well against both the door and the door frame, and once it's pressed into
place you'll have a working hinge. I like that:
simple, neat and not fussy. Reinforce that hinge by opening the door and pressing
firmly. Now the door frame can be installed against the rear of each of
the side panels. I like to use 1-2-3 Blocks to help everything stay
square and straight while the adhesive cures. Now here's the decorated panel
that separates the driver from the cargo bay - it fits into the vertical slots
right behind the stair step shape. I'm using Rapid Fuse for most of the
construction in this build - and as you can see here, that's helpful - because
although it is a super glue, it's a gel glue and it gives you slightly more
working time so that you can adjust the placement of your adhered areas. It's
time to fit the body of the coach onto the wheelbase. The slots will line up
perfectly and the Rapid Fuse adhesive will give you enough time to make any
necessary adjustments. Next I'll be adding the footboard to the front of the
drivers area: that notched piece will fit perfectly into that slot...and then
finally the driver's seat gets adhered to the upper flat edges. The coach body
assembly has had time to cure, so now I'm going to remove the weights and install
the roof. It fits into the slots perfectly, just like all of the other
components. It is super satisfying to get this last piece into place!
Excellent... the building phase is now complete. We can set the funeral coach
aside for a few minutes while we concentrate on getting some
embellishments ready. I'll be using a lot of this Dresden tassel trim, but because
parts of it will show through the windows, I need to obscure that white
backing paper. I'm using a mixture of water and black craft paint. Just paint
it on in a thin layer on the back of all of the Dresden trim. Once the paint has
been applied, I just flip the pieces over and use a moist baby wipe to remove any
of that black residue from the metallic surface. These chipboard scrollwork
patterns are going to add another layer of extravagance. I'll be using them all
around the upper edge of the roof line: so I'm trimming the pieces to fit and
holding on to those trimmed off pieces because they are going to come in handy!
You just can't have too much gold and black - so I'm using the gold paint pen to
highlight areas of the scrollwork patterns just to add that over-the-top
Victorian touch. We'll let those dry. I'm adhering links of The Dresden tassel
trim to the base of each of these pieces of scrollwork with the exception of one
of the short pieces. After the glue has been applied, the pieces are set aside
and allowed to set up before pressing the Dresden firmly into place.
These scrollwork sections can now be adhered directly to the edges of the
roof. I'm using Rapid Fuse for this function and also putting a few dots on
the back of the Dresden trim here to hold everything more firmly in place.
There's not a lot of gluing surface available here, so these pieces will
remain relatively fragile...but if you use a light touch you shouldn't have any
difficulties. Once they're in place I'm using the 1-2-3 Blocks to help
keep those pieces perpendicular while the glue cures. I've reserved one of the
short pieces of scrollwork for the back edge of the roof and this one does not
have any Dresden applied to it so that the back doors can open and close...and, oh yes...
this is coming along nicely - very ornate, very ostentatious - very
Victorian! But I think we can improve on this. The roof is definitely still too
austere: not nearly enough ostentation here! So it's time to add more Dresden
trim. The front of the coach needs a little fancying up as well, so a little
more Dresden there. Those cut off pieces of scrollwork will
make amazing arm rests for our driver... but they're incomplete without something
wonderful dangling from the ends. I'm using a pin vise to create tiny little
holes in the ends of these pieces of chipboard and I'm feeding through a jump
ring and some tiny dangles from cheap jewelry pieces. These fancy arm rests are
then installed one on either side of the driver's seat...and of course just a
couple of more touches of Dresden trim. To balance out all that fancy
scroll work at the roof line, I'm adding two more pieces at the lower edge. The
upper corners are far too bare - so I'm grabbing some cheap brass metal
stampings and sectioning them into pieces and then
bending them into a 90 degree angle. That should be just the thing to add a little
more ornate detail and support to those corners. The other bits and pieces here
won't go to waste: I'll be using these to help decorate the
uprights between the windows on the sides of the coach. I'm using FabriTac
to adhere these metal pieces to the coach - you could just as easily use E6000.
Yep - that's looking better! I'm snipping away even more pieces of these brass stampings to use as handles on the rear doors. I've just cut them
into a rough shape and now I'm using bent nose needle nose pliers to fold
under that rough edge. A couple of drops of FabriTac will hold them firmly in place.
This design evolved as I was creating the piece, so if you like the look of the
pinstriping shown here, you might want to consider adding that before adding all
the trim and gluing everything in place: it will make your life a lot easier!
A proper Victorian funeral coach would not be complete without black ostrich plumes
at each corner of the roof. I gave this some thought and decided that using
plain black cardstock folded into 1/4 of an inch widths and then cut into feather
shapes would be the best solution and the cheapest. You'll need a sharp and
very strong a pair of micro tipped scissors to cut through these multiple
layers of cardstock simultaneously - but the magical thing is that once you
unfold the piece you've created four feathers with one effort - and since
you'll need 18 of these for the entire project, that's a good investment!
To support the plumes, I'm using a simple strip of black cardstock rolled into a
cylinder around the gathered base of the feathers. That's nice and sturdy - and all
that's needed to hold it in place is a dollop of Tacky Glue. Oh yes: now we're
starting to get the look! An ornate funeral coach like this one deserves a
beautifully outfitted pair of horses - so I grabbed these two from my stash of
dollar store finds, and cut two millimeter fun foam into very narrow
strips. These little strips of fun foam are a great way to simulate the leather
harness that would have been used in a fancy livery like this one.
I pulled up an image from Google to help guide me in the placement of these
straps. Now, this isn't authentic by any means -
but it does create the impression of a fancy Victorian harness. Draw the thin
strips of fun foam through your fingertips gently to create an even more
delicate strip. It can be easier to work with all these little fiddly bits if you
grab a tool like this bamboo skewer that will help you to press the ends of the
straps against the adhesive without gluing your fingers in place at the same
time...and that pair of micro tipped scissors really helps to trim away the
excess from tiny areas like this. Okay, we're making some progress. Now it's time
to put that additional strap behind the ears and then the delicate straps that
run along each of the cheeks: that's a reasonable facsimile of a harness. I'm
liking the effect. To control these beautiful creatures, we'll need to add
reigns - so I'm using more strips of the 2 millimeter fun foam and drawing them
through tiny jump rings... folding the edges back and enclosing the jump rings
at the very end of the long strip. There we go...
You'll need two reigns for each horse - so in my case that's a total of four of
these tiny little strips. Let's see: we're also going to need a chest strap for
each one of these beauties. A slightly thicker strip of foam is glued directly
to the chest. To speed things up you can use Insta-Set - that will help the Rapid
Fuse to set immediately and you won't have to hold the piece in place. Repeat
this process for each horse on your team. Next, we need a fittingly sombre yet
elegant set of blankets to drape the backs of our black stallions. Cut a
rectangle of foam to the appropriate length to get a nice generous drape on
either side of the animal, and then trim away a slight curve in the center area
allowing it to drape properly behind the horse's neck. I'm choosing to add even
more Dresden trim (of course the gold tassels) on either side of these horse
blankets. I'm going to use a heat tool to soften up the texture of the foam and
make it possible to mold it over the back of each of the horses for a custom
fit. Be careful here and don't burn yourself. Hold the foam in place until it
has cooled down and it will retain some of that shape. Next, just glue the
blanket directly to the back of the horse. The custom harnesses and livery
are coming along nicely, but we have a few finishing touches: like blinders! I've
cut mine from tiny squares of card stock and I'm adhering them to the cheek
straps of each of the harnesses.
To help guide the reigns, I'm installing metal jump ring onto a little tab of fun
foam that's getting glued to the upper surface of each of the horse blankets.
This will guide each pair of reigns as it streams backward from the noble heads of
each of our steeds.
It's time to adhere that tiny round brass ring to the harness right at the
base where it meets the mouth. Once that's in place it should look like this.
..and now we can feed the reigns through the little guiding hoops.
Be gentle during this operation: you don't want to yank those reins loose. For
the very final piece of finery for our matched pair of black stallions we need
to have ostrich plumes mounted at the top of each of their heads. These are
traditionally set out in sets of three. Use gentle fingertip pressure to help
mold the ends of each of the feathers for a more naturalistic look. Create a
rounded shape by bending the base of the feathers around a bamboo skewer. I'm
using these tiny snippets of Dresden trim to create an almost crown like
effect at the base of each grouping of ostrich plumes. Another tiny cylinder of
rolled cardstock creates a firm and sturdy base...all that's left to do is to
mount it atop the horse's head. A tiny spritz of Insta-Set holds
everything in place. I love that you don't have to wait.. and there we have it:
our noble steed is fully outfitted and a perfect match for our Victorian Gothic
Funeral Coach! Almost every surface of this item has been given Victorian Dark
Gothic Glamour with elaborate scrollwork, damask patterns, delicious Dresden and
ostrich plumes! I've enjoyed every minute of designing and presenting this version
of the Gypsy Soul Laser Cuts Funeral Coach!
This project is one of many that I have scheduled for presentation over the
coming weeks - all of which will share a dark, gothic, romantic and elegant theme.
Thank you so much for hanging out with me today! Until next time...Bye!
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