because this tenon is quite wide I want to break it up with a web inside the
middle here so if I was to cut this mortise into here that full width when I
put the tenon into there because this is such a wide mortise if the tenon is too
thick that mortar simply opens up there's nothing resisting and opening up
so what I need to do is I need to put a web inside there and have a twin mortise
and that web there prevents that mortise opening up to make this twin tenon I
have set up two stop blocks to dictate the start and stop points of the mortise
to create the web between the two mortises I simply use a block of timber
to shorten the length of each mortise and therefore creating a gap between the
two mortises easy peasy
I need to cut to Deputy multiple passes so that I don't break the route a bit
and because I didn't set the fence dead center of the board I'll need to cut
from both directions which makes the mortar slightly wider but guarantees the
mortise to be dead center of the panel
and it's the same method for the lower foot but this time it's just a single
tenon
then to cut the Tenon's I use a flat top blade in my saw and nibble away the
waste until I'm left with the tenon always starting by cutting the shoulders
first that way you're left with nice clean crisp shoulders without tear out
usually and then I separated the twin Tenon's by hand just for something
different
I set up the two curved rails in position on top of the layout so that I
could mark the extreme bottom of the legs at the exact angle they need to be
so to make this cut here which is effectively perpendicular to that face
there at that exact point I need to push this thing all the way out there I need
that heart up against from the left-hand side your right hand side and that needs
to be pushed up so that that line is now parallel with my saw blade in order to
do that accurately I've cut a block so it sits in behind there and it creates
two points one hard on the fence and one on that block and so now when I push
that through that saw blade is now parallel with that line and then I just
need to push it across until I cut through the middle of that line
so I'm about to hold away the waste of this bridle joint now I've got my saw
blade raised up to about 45 millimeters high which is the depth of the bridle
joint I've got my fence set to about 10 millimeters which is the width of the
first cheek of the bridle joint and then I'm gonna have to move the fence over to
cut the other cheek and then incrementally step it over to hog away
the waist the way that I'm gonna do this I'm gonna put this my cleanly cut end
down on the table surface and I've got myself a scrap of timber which I've cut
a matching curve into it so butts up or rests up against this curve here I'll
put that in behind me and I'm just gonna push it through so this is the type of
operation that I'll do on the saw often enough it's a pretty sketchy operation
it's very high-risk but I seem to get away with it time and time again just
through confidence and experience but if you're not confident doing it like this
there are other ways of doing the job it's just not as quick so at the moment
the bridle joint the top of the bridle joint is square across but that's
actually that actually needs to seat on top of a curved section there so if that
was to come down now it would hook onto this edge here and it'll leave a gap
right at that point so what I need to do on the bottom foot is I need to cut away
this section here so that that matches that portion then you get a good mating
surface
and now I just have to shape the lower foot and the inside edge of the pillar
with a bit of a curve I'm just using any curves that I've got in the shop already
the foot was shaped using the back header panel from the baby cut that I
made late last year or early early this year
I think it was and the pillar I'm just using one of the curved legs to give me
the kerb it's easier than making a template and as you can see I'm routing
down the hill or down the grain with the grain so that I'm not tearing the grain
to bits I really hate rallying against the
ground it just takes ages to sand it out
and with that done I glued up the center section so that I can work on them
tomorrow I knew I had to go up the center section before applying these
curved rails and I knew that I'd also have to smooth out that center section
with the plane which would reduce the thickness so I've made sure that when I
made the bridle joints I made them small so that I can plane down the center
section to fit the bridle joints now and well work out pretty good
I now need to put these bridle joints in there and very gently twist twist this
back frame to allow that to sit in front of that upper rail that's putting a lot
of flex on that Morse in tenon at the balk bottom there and I actually I can
actually feel the timber bulging out there it wants to break but it didn't
break so it's all good so now that's there I can line that up with my layout
get it centered line up swing this over until it hits on my layout beneath it
that's pretty good I'm just going to use a chisel because
that way I can hold up hard up against that edge and just put a scratch marking
knife long in there
and then it's just a case of cutting away the waste and shaping the curve to
match the curved legs as close as I could possibly get it I hold the two
components together up against a light source and if I can see any light coming
through I know I need to remove some more material so it's just a bit of back
and forth between the light source and the sand are there to get it right
so that's all come on really good I'm really happy with that so far I'm
actually happy with all of this so far coming up nicely it's not a great deal
of effort so now I need to put a joint in here somewhere so I'm going to use a
loose tenon which means creating and waters into the curved rail and a
mortise into this top rail and then creating a little bit of tenon stock to
slip into both of those mortises so in order to locate where those mortises go
it's gonna dry assemble this make sure it's all good get myself a straight edge
the blades been retracted all the way set that up against the top of that top
rail nice and flush get myself a straight edge that spans wide enough to
go across the whole lot and then just make a mark so then that that mark there
tells me that that's the top of that rail there so say for example I want to
bring the mortise 10 mil down from the top I'll just measure 10 mil down
parallel the line across and then let's say 10 mil from the bottom that's a 70
mil rail so semi milled down plus 10 mil up ring at 60 mil down parallel will
parallel the line across and we'll give it that so I'll explain what I'm doing
here but I'm putting the mortise inside these curved legs he's taking me quite a
long time to get this thing set up so I'm just going to do it
earmuffs aunt and away we go
so I've just done a little bit of a test cut on one of these side panels to put a
mortise in the end end of that end grain just to check that I've got all the
clearances set up it worked so I'll show you what I'm doing so to start with I
had to pack at the front of my mortise in jig away from this wall so that when
I bring my router down the the extension collet that I've got inside there it's a
bit bit too wide and it was hitting on the fence on the on the wall here so I
that shifted out so then I can bring this in here line up with that that edge
there get the top of that roughly there it doesn't really matter that much it
just affects the depth of the mortise which is neither here nor there
I haven't even measured it I've just looked at it and said yeah that'll be
good enough clamp up and over pop another clamp over the back just so it
doesn't twist on it so then I can bring the router up over the top and then as I
plunge to cut it in there you'll see that over at this point at the high
point of that curved end I've got the entire shank of the tool inside the
mortise if it had been cut already now that's not something that I like doing
but it's not something that I hesitate doing if I need to do it it's just one
of those things that I do what if I have to do
so that one got a little bit of burning where the shank of the tool was inside
the mortise that's why I don't like doing it but like I said I don't
hesitate doing it so then I've gone ahead and made up some loose tenon stock
which is just a piece of timber that fits into the hole and I fit it into the
hole like that but now the the tenon comes out of this top rail directly
straight but the mortise into the curved leg is down on an angle ever so slightly
so what I'm going to do is we're going to glue the loose tenon into the top
rail first let that dry so that the tenon doesn't move around and then I
have to shape the tenon that's hanging out of the top rail so that fits into
the curve here
I can't think of a good way to apply some downwards pressure onto this curved
rail onto that bottom rail there when I'm gluing this thing up so what I'm
going to do I'm going to put a draw board pin through the two pieces the
scrap piece of timber inside the bridle joint does two things firstly it stops
the bottom edges from being blown out and it also supports the drill bit all
the way through the cut rather than having a cut air for half of it then
reassemble get everything in the exact right position get my Brad point bit
which has a very sharp point on the end of it and very lightly just press a mark
into the timber through this hole here
so on this one we want to bring that point this way and also this way so it
pulls it down and into this shoulder here so you can't really see because my
hands are in the way but I finally moved the point by about half a millimeter I
see other people doing one and a half millimeter two millimeters and it's not
a good idea to go too far because if you go too far you just ruin the tenon you
split the timber you do all sorts of bad things so a little bit good enough
and now with the work done I just need to do a little bit of a style work
rounding off the bottom of those legs I just used the spindle sander do to do
that seem pretty easy to make they don't need to smooth out the curved faces of
the legs because it's going to be very difficult to smooth them out after
they've been assembled and we don't like sharp edges so I want to 1/8 the inch
roundover all the way around I really hate saying
1/8 inch 3 millimeter round over from now on and then the glue up usually I
would put blue tape everywhere to stop the glue from going everywhere but
because of the way that that went together at the bottom there was no way
to blue tape it because it had to actually go into it and then shifted
head to him rotate into the joint so I couldn't blue tape off so I just had to
clean it up with the wet cloth like I'm doing right there I don't like doing it
that way but it works
and this is a really good example of the draw ball you see that the glue
squeeze-out just as the pin went in that's because the leg and the bottom
foot has come together to stop the clamp from sliding down the hill I've just
used the two other clamps there and that stops that 601 clamp sliding down other
times I'll glue on some calls to stop that from happening but this is the easy
way when you don't have very many things to glue up I flush cut the pins very
slowly and very carefully so that I don't tear out the fibers out of the end
ingrained
you
no I didn't ask my side panels done I'm going to call it quits on this video
right now thanks very much for watching I apologize for the length of this video
because I'm assuming it's gone really really long I'm looking to fix that in
the future so don't hate me too much see us
hurt
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