Hello everyone this is Rhoads
Days ago I was with Wiset and Grey painting my replica and so
You'll see it later, but I wanted to tell you I've testing my new replica
the ARES Amoeba Pro Octaarms
Here is the video where I talk about it
I'm using it with 0'25g BBs, and 7'4V LiPo battery which is enough
And I must say I love this replica
At first it feels a bit too long for me
But no problems for now
I like it as I liked the ARES Amoeba CCR, here is the video
but with the advantages of a longer replica
and compared with my other M4
As you know before I was using a G&G CM16 Raider
which didn't has enough range but... not a problem with this Amoeba Pro
Here you could see how it looks after the painting
And now you'll see Grey explaining how we painted it
Ok,recording now?
Sorry
This is the Brown and the Khaki
Krylon brand
Ok we're going to paint the helmets, replica, etc...
We're going to use Krylon
The only way to know the color is with this etiquette
If you remove it you can't know the color
The cap is different, but the color is on the etiquette?
The point is... if you open the cap you can't know the color
So we have 2 options. Krylon or Montana, in my opinion
Why? Lichytex is a very good brand, but in quality/price balance
Is more quality than we need
I mean the Krylon has more apropiate qualities for painting this
than other brands for paiting
for example drying rate, resistance, permeability
in all the aspects Krylon is better for this
Montana is cheaper. How much this Krylon cost?
I don't remember. -12 to 15€ more or less
But a Montana bottle is 3€ only
So many people choose the Montana
Which is the difference between Montana and Krylon?
This is a high pressure spray
We choose the Montana 94 sprays because it's matte
but the Montana Hardcore is bright
but Montana 94 is a low pressure spray
This matters if you want to paint more or less surface by
Not a big deal for painting replicas, so low pressure is ok
Nevertheless there is another difference, this
You can't remove this nozzle
Is built in with the bottle, but in Montana you can remove and replace it
However the Montana nozzle dies easy
normally it's used for painting a wall
You can take 3 or 4 bottles, using the same nozzle, when it dies you replace it
But this nozzle keeps working for longer time
Step 1, choose someone for doing the dirty work
So here we have Wiset working with the tape
2 parts in this. Cover and paint
You'll cover what you don't want to paint
This is normal masking tape
If you want better quality you can use 3M, a very nice brand
But the cheap one is ok too
Then why the 3M? If you use 3M, once you stick it
if it's a quality tape, when you remove it the paint line is perfect
but with the cheap one the line is not perfect at all
Will be enough tape? -Not finished yet dude
I took the tape at home, I didn't even buy a new one
Next step. We have everything we need, we have or professional wrapper
What we must do is remove everything we don't want to paint
Do you know how you want to paint this?
Yes, I'd like to paint it like only the lower receiver and the stock
Why? Because I want to copy Gaston, there's no other reason
So we must remove all the upper and keep just the lower
Remove this screw and the pin
Here's the Hop-Up chamber WHICH IS DIRTY AS FUCK
You see? It's chocolate
We'll cover the gear, no need to remove it
We want it to look like if we've painted all the replica but replaced the upper
We just copy real operators, they replace the upper because
maybe they use the lower for a DMR for example. We'll paint even the stock tube
We'll paint the base with khaki, but you can use green or whatever
The birght color is on the base, and the dark color over it for details
We need a clean surface
And if you want to do it properly you should clean it with alcohol
Paint in several passes, but never end the pass over the object
For example I want to paint this, so I start here and finish here
Ok keep the distance and no need to paint it all in one stroke
If you put too much paint it will be soaked and it won't dry
You see? this part here is a bit dry, but this part is shinny
And be careful with the inside part, because the paint could touch the Hop-Up
If you paint the entire replica you should cover this part
With the upper on it, better you remove the inner barrel and the Hop-Up chamber
Or put tape on this part, so the paint won't enter in the Hop-Up chamber
Continue with other thing. The same
Turn it over. Don't touch with your hand or you'll fuck it up with fingerprints
Nailed. Let it dry and continue with the mags
No need to cover the top part, we can paint directly
Let this dry and continue with the helmets
First let's separate the parts we don't want to paint
In a FAST or a Maritime we place this inside and ready to go
Not a big deal if the velcro gets painted a bit
We just copy a not perfect style
the operators don't pretend to do art
try not to make it too soaked
At first it would be shinny obviously, but avoid the drops
and then with the brown color we will talk about the composition
VERY IMPORTANT, don't do this in an small room. The paint is toxic
believe it or not the paint gets inside your nose
But I'm in a big room, but better don't do it in an small room
so do it in a well ventilated place, or street or in a roof
Let it dry, not too long
but no problem to hold it a bit and flip it
I'm trying not to press much, hold it but don't press
We'll give a second coat of paint on the helmets, we want a firm base and light details
Don't hold the nozzle, do short strockes
Did you see the color when it's dry?. -It's wonderful. -So cool
That why when you see me rollin' you're hattin'
why is he cooler than me? even if we have the same helmet
Because the Tacticak Beard?
Dude we didn't cover this part
(You better cover this part if you want to paint all the mag)
You see there's some parts in black here
No need to paint all the corners
Here in the stock, some parts are not painted, but looks cool
But for a proper dry we need more time
For example we can't put this inside a bag yet
It takes some days to dry completelly right as we want
Next step. We use the dark color
Now we use the net. We'll use always the same direction
Don't stroke this way, then this way
Unless I want a more urban style with crossed lines
We'll use a hint for the small objects. We'll use the corners
Cover with the net. I can use it close or far, what is the difference?
Close
Far
This is the difference, more or less marked circle
We want something intermediate
If some part is too marked, I can paint it from far without net
Another tip, we can combine net with direct painting
Keep in mind that the object is not the only part
it will be just a part of the overall
So I can't put a lot of net painting on it
because when i put it in the replica it won't look nice
Let it dry
Important not do like this
This way this corner will be more defined
Too much net here right? let's paint it directly
To paint this corner I'm aiming in this area
so it will spread a bit on this side
This was too much, not too brown but too much net painting
This composition won't make sense without the upper part
If I paint the entire replica I should distribute the lines
So here we will have 2 lines only, becayse the 3th will be here
If I paint the entire replica it's ok with 3 lines
BUt if I don't paint the upper I can't place 3 lines here
The first we can do is decide where we want the lines
I'll paint one here
Let's paint again the corner
A bit more here but not much, this line will work with the overall
You see how I hold it? Trying not to touch the surface
We can't do much with this, but it's cool
When we move the selector, it will be black under it btu I like it
This corner is not on the line, but this corner does
Nailed it!
We will let this aprt alone adn we'll paint this corner
If some aprts gets too strong you cna paint it from far without net
Let's paint the helmet, I must say it's already cool this way
No need to use the net, we can paint it directly
We won't focus on the middle line but we will use the diagonal
What I like to do is start from the middle to one side
Super tip. Take a bottle and you have a base
First we'll do a light stroke
I want well defined this corner so let's fit the net here
I don't want to fuck it all up by using the net twice on same spot
So I'll paint brown directly without net
But this part here is cool already.Take it easy man
Over this white background maybe you'd think it's too brown
But don't worry, when you see the whole gear
Let's paint the other helmet exactly the same. But it's cool like this already
We can remove the cover but it's not ready for play
Let's mount it all and see how it looks
And this is the result
I'll like it more when it gets worn out
We fucked it up here. We painted with the open stock so the lines seems to be far
You must be careful and paint it with the configuration you'll use
The plastic looks better with the Krylon -When is not plastic anymore?
Last step is the worn
Opinions of all kinds
Some people recommend using acetone when the painting is not dry
The difference between solvent and thinner is the way of breacking the pigment
The solvent will break the pigment and make it liquid for remove it
We don't want that, we want a long term cool look
For me this cool look is the chipped look
All we can do is wait, but we can accelerate it
We'll find the union parts and with a thin sandpaper
will scratch the corners and sides
for example sand this part here in and out
Then we'll do the same on the surface parts, but only the surface
By scratching on some points the paint will get chipped
One last thing. We were painting other things like this
So we painted half replica, 2 helmets, 4 mags and the holster
There's still paint in the bottle?
Brown? You can paint other 7 replicas
I mean the khaki. -Half bottle more or less
It last more than Montana
Because we must paint Burke's helmet too
Ok it's over. Nailed.
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