it was recently pointed out to me that I've been slacking on doing model
railroad projects recently and as I scroll back yeah I have it's been a
couple of months it's time to rectify that I'm gonna do one of these tank car
kits today these are as you can see eight thousand gallon riveted style tank
cars from proto 2000 these things have been out of production for quite some
time they were on sale and I got them a couple of decades ago for 10 bucks
apiece actually I probably got the four of them for a little bit better price
than that - these ones are SHPX which at the time was called shippers car line
incorporation the SHPX numbers er umm lettering still exists but the name has
changed in recent decades so let's crack one of these out of the bulk pack and
figure out which one I guess it doesn't matter which one of them so these kits
actually prefer 2000 freight cars in general were sort of made in the 90s
early 2000s this was from the life-like company which sold the their business
their model railroading business to Walthers in 2005 I think so
these aren't available anymore and Walters seems to have not carried on
this particular car model or at least looking at their webpages they're all
out of stock and out of production so where's the there we go there's
everything out of a box so we got some weights
we've got the car body itself that's not a fairly sharp pad printing getting
close enough to read that yeah so built date of that November 1928 which means
that this car in the 1970s when my railroad is supposedly set is going to
be actually beyond the end of its life in reality I'm going to pretend that
there's still a few of them running around the world but because I've
actually got a few of these riveted tank cars just because I like the look of him
and it's my railroad I get to make the rules and these proto 2000 cars they
were life like previous to the product of 2,000 wine showing up in the mid-90s
waif-like was known for making cheap Train Set kind of stuff they really
brought their game up when they put out the product 8000 series the details are
just really impressive on them they go together well they run like proper
models not like toys first introduced in 1921 the type 21 cars remained in use
through the 1950s and 60s beginning in the 1930s the brake systems are updated
to the new safer EB brake standard which is what these are let's see what else is
in the kit I know I'm bouncing around here I've done one of these for a while
and I'm just I'm just actually kind of having fun with it so there's the carb
body weights the reason we want to add weight is to make these track better
make a car track better these are very lightweight car some grab irons and some
ladders and it looks like a little hatch here this is the a lot of the brake
rigging nice
that is the grab iron that runs around the outside of there the grab rail I
should say as a single molding Wow in the bottom of the car ah that's what
that piece was that's the hatch that goes in the bottom a clean old hatch and
then the they Center being an under frame of the car has even those coupler
setting Springs and they've printed the car number on the under frame is that
that is the brake pipe and more under frame detail and even more grabs the
brake wheel coupler pocket covers stirrup steps there is the dome with
printing on it craziness the brake tank also with printing on it that'll be the
pressure information that's just nuts the level of detail that they put on
there wow that's some excellent pad printing I am assuming this pad printing
maybe screen printing and then we've got the wheels and trucks and couplers for
tools I'll be using a fresh exacto blade and we'll be using a razor blade
probably we're using a pair of flush cutters that actually meet flush at the
end as opposed to these cheap ones here that aren't meeting flush for cutting
stuff off the sprues I may also be using the set of nail clippers to cut stuff
off the sprues to getting close and I'll be using a variety of tweezers probably
a minimum that set and one of these reverse acting sets just to grab onto
stuff and the glue to viewer is testers plastic cement so the first thing the
instructions say is to glue the dome caps to the dome and basically put
everything on top of the dome just picking the part numbers off the
screw and going for it so there's are the pieces that go in the domes from
dome caps some curve grabs to go on top of there
get this cover number 27 off here so
it's usually better to make multiple light passes than one really heavy pass
to get these off partly so you don't stick yourself in the finger with your
knife but part we see you don't distort the part that looks like there's some
flashing on the back of that but I don't think it matters now then there's a grab
iron that goes onto that and because these things are so tiny they give you
too
since those holes go right through they could actually put a drop of glue on
from the back and that should wick into the hole the other thing that does this
puts a bit of glue on there so that hopefully I can drop it in
oh now then one thing to watch out for is the shade the hinge or the latch I
think I'll put that on there it's not sitting like that I'll just flip it over
put a little touch of glue on from the backside let that set up for a second so
I'm gonna use a slightly different method to break these case loose just
saw on that side to give them loosen up and on this side just using the razor
blade that's turning out that these holes are a little bit tight so I'm just
gonna open them up with a tiny little drill bit in my pin vise long as they
don't get too carried away I shouldn't have any problem the the glue the
solvent will fill in some of the gaps anyway but hopefully that should be
enough to make them fit better
okay so there's one and again I just hit it with a little bit of the solving boof
on the inside and it whipped up into the hole so these aren't what I would call
shake the box beginner kit I've done a couple of those in the past a flatcar I
think was one of them and those but this is a pretty good sort of next step up
kind of kit if you can find them and I did a little bit of looking around and
these ones are still available on eBay if you look around there's so many
things so the next step is attach the weights and secure them in into the top
and bottom half and put some more grab irons on and well it's 32 running boards
yeah so yeah and then set it aside again these are really good instructions very
complete even gives you instructions on on cutting stuff apart
run a screw through the meanings of the piece
don't have to over tighten them just enough so that they won't rattle around
you don't wanna strip the screw out there that adds some significant weight
and that will help it track nice and straight once it's on the rails so these
notches here there and there line up with those ribs inside you've got it the
other way won't quite line up and it tells me to apply some glue to the
inside and then snap it in place so now that our dry fit it I shall do just that
not to get any glue on the outside that
would be unsightly if I do get any on the outside don't get your fingers in it
is the the solvent will evaporate clean but if you leave a fingerprint in it in
the softened plastic you're hosed okay so seam as with the grab irons on
the dome I've used this drill to open up all the holes just ever so slightly and
now I'll just put these guys on now these ones I can't get at from the
inside so I need to have to just gently just a little touch of cement on there
that's way more than I should have put on but it evaporates fairly cleanly I'll
just proceed to put the rest of these bits on
so with these tiny grabs it's inevitable you're gonna break one
fortunately they give you two extras unfortunately I don't come Z so this is
one of the broken ones that's the least broken so I'll tack one end on there and
then I'll take one of the broken pieces there's one of the broken pieces and
I'll put it in the other hole and hopefully I can join it up
it's not perfect but I think it'll do
so the next sub if it's my phase three needs to put some of the brake gear the
triple valve that guy there the under frame no not that one that's not the
under frame there's the under frame so the triple valve goes on the train line
which is what I called the brake pipe earlier it's more grab irons of
different two different kinds and the outlet valve of the brake system that
guy there and there's a saddle where is the saddle 25 okay okay that part that I
called the the bottom hat cover is actually what they're calling the saddle
which I guess is just where the tank sits down on to the the under frame as
I'm going I'm just cleaning off a little bit to flash a little bit to screw off
the ends of the pieces as I'm cutting them out doing here 0-9 of the brake go
for the triple valve me and what I'm finding is working best on this kit it's
just using a gentle sawing motion with the with the razor blade
not as critical for the larger parts but on the smaller parts like the grab iron
it's proved to be very important okay this is going to be a real bugger to get
off number 14 the train line this is the air pipe that basically runs the entire
length of the Train at one end the air comes in from the direction of the
locomotive the other end it goes out to the next car and along the way it
connects up just to the brake brake plumbing within the car then cutting
this a little bit roughly here not not rough as in heavy-handed because I know
that's going to end in tears but rough is you know a little bit wide you can
see that there's some little bits left on it I'll scrape those off once I've
got this freed up from its sprues
it is relatively flexible but it's also quit fragile I think I think I already
mentioned that well this isn't a beginner kit it's definitely doable for
somebody who's doesn't have a lot of experience with making kits especially
in finding a good deal on one on ebay
but these really up the level of quality on your railroad if you can muster the
patience to build them again they're not going to be the quality of a craftsman
kit or expensive brass kit but Wow do I need to go to this level not really but
I'm just wanting to challenge myself to see just how decent a job that I can do
I'm often of the three foot rule opinion that if you can't see something from
three feet away then it doesn't matter
sometimes you like to challenge yourself
challenge with doing this is getting it cleaned up without destroying it
there is the outlet valve number 34 it's a relatively robust piece
and the retainer valve number 33 holy crap that's a tiny guy there's the break
retainer Ville will focus on this that will go into a whore these holes in the
back of the brake valve here looks pretty much like it then I'll just glue
it down okay I think I'm gonna wait for the triple valve to get a little bit
more firm in place so I'm gonna poke that into one of the holes in the back
of it
so there's tree lines being tricky I had to trim the ends a little bit and then I
got that one tacked down there that little bracket and I tacked down there
tacked down in the back of the triple valve and I'm just going to wait for
those to dry before I tack this little saddle down and here and at the end okay
I've got all the all the different spots of that glued down and just let it dry
for a little while here that's one thing about a kit with this level of detail on
it you spent an awful lot of time waiting for glue to dry
until you move on to the next step but just fine I mean time spent doing a
hobby is time well spent in my opinion next is adding these grab irons on the
ends and it wasn't sides as well and just for the fun of it
I'm trying these little micro brushes with the glue just to see if that
they're still pretty big for getting into tiny little details like that but
we'll see how it goes might actually have to come up with something even
finer maybe a paintbrush or something the trick with getting these ones into
place is that they're in the middle of a channel those were really hard to get
the tweezers in there I think I've got that one in then you notice that I've
moved to my helping hands to hold on to it so I've got both hands to mess with
it
their last one in place okay so the next step is the coupler cut leavers these
two those are the levers that the train crew when they're disconnecting the car
is flips to open the coupler there's two different ones this one with the bend in
it goes on the B into the car which is the end with the brake wheel and the
band is to go around that little cutout for the brake wheel which is that right
there halfway there there you go that goes right in there perfect
so that when we leavin fairly neatly I know let's see if it'll stay there
yes I think it well then the last thing to go in is this beast which they call
saddle and I've already attached this other chunk on Hall was waiting for
outlet that wolf okay already attached that on while I was waiting for other
stuff to dry so that just kind of sets in there until groove and I think yeah I
can get at it from underneath the glue it so I'm gonna swap lots on and not
have to worry about if I've made a mess or not make it nice and secure so that
is oh no wait I've got the retainer valve where is it
there it is back there okay one last thing to go on it needs to go right in
this little hole there there is phase three details on the top of the under
frame completed so now we flip him over and do the details on the bottom side
quite a bunch of pieces that we're gonna eat here okay well what do we need here
air reservoir check under frame under frame that's that part insert the
installed couplers so I'll need a coupler pocket a lids which are there
and the couplers which are over here
screw them on do not overtighten through the brake lever
that's this whole assembly on here which has the all these levers that connect to
the the actual brakes and that is a cylinder that pulls them that goes into
the valve and the placard boards and some stirrup steps Oh at least those
aren't quite as tiny as the grab irons okay
back to cutting so the air tank goes into that little hole just above the
triple valve kinda like that with the lettering facing out of course no which
way does that go sometimes you got to be a little bit ambidextrous to clamp this
stuff down until the glue firms up okay now that that piece is on there I can
get busy with the brake lever detail and I've already got the the brake piping
the air pipe connected to the tail end of the brake cylinder that drops in like
that and then all those bits just go into there at all holes it's gonna take
a little bit of finagling and then glue that down so the next bit is to put the
placards on and they go on from the bottom when they're properly oriented
they look like that but they go on this way into these oweth or notches down
here
now how the hell am I supposed to hold that in there
well the glue dries now let's just put a drop of glue in there let it soften for
a second you have that placard by the very very tip
and just hold it for a second okay I think that looks fairly straight pull
that out and take a look here yeah that'll work
and wet/dry and because I wasn't paying attention I skipped another step so now
I have to come back and do it I was supposed to put on the trucks
around the couplers before I put the placards on
so I'll just gently balance that up on top of there and put these couplers on
it also comes with these horn hooks but yuck don't use those if you can avoid it
the key D compatible knuckle couplers are so much nicer
so spring just sets down into their
knuckle sets down into they're a couple of bucks a lid sits down onto there and
the screw goes in
but as it says the instructions do not overtighten what you want is the cover
retained and this able to flex back and forth on it spring next step stirrup
steps step knee step step step which are these guys and they go on there
and there's the fourth syrup step how come that one's kind of wonky I think
it's the for stirrup steps in there and let dry phase five mean assembly glue
the cradles to the cradle straps there's a little notch on the back of them to
make them fit together then it gets intense dry fit the tank onto the under
frame and make sure that everything lines up and then put it all together
then put the trucks on okay okay so these pieces just slot together sorry
just like that oh those dry and you know okay no it says dry fit the tank to the
under frame which is pretty straightforward proper alignment yeah
everything seems to sit good down there
these guys sit into these slots down here the tank sits on top of them and
then there's a little pin in these that goes into the side of the tank crap I
didn't wait long enough okay
I've got those four pieces what it was called cradle assemblies in there and
they have dried now lower this down into place nothing's glued in place yet
and those two cradles just fell out I'm doing this pinning these into there you
saw those two straps are pinned in place on this side do you just touch that
little bit of glue there and there and you won't be able to see this I don't
think I'll just get the bottom of these two saddles down here that should hold
that all in place I'm gonna let this side just firm up a little bit before I
put them back on I'll spin it around I'll see if I can sneak them in there I
should be able to oh boy and this isn't exactly how it described
that it should go together but that's okay next step is to screw the trucks on
okay and I guess that will crank that down so that's that's good and as before
it said do not over tighten the screws I
guess just enough to hold the hold the trucks in place you want a little bit of
wobble in them to deal with uneven track surfaces but you don't want so much that
it falls over and you want them to be spin easily like that there we go
saddles are on please yeah that's good see them that's on wheels now don't need
the Box anymore all right we're up to final assembly first glue the inner
straps these two there there and there and there which is there and there and
the same on the other side basic with completing these straps that are molded
on and tying it down to the frame then glue the letters to the tank in the
inner frame brake wheel shaft and the brake wheel but the dome on tank hand
wheel tank handrail okay and the brake wheel assembly so these seem to go there
yeah that's exactly what they do you know from here down to there except for
I'm saying you have to open those walls up
one down three more to go and now the ladders this one's gonna be
a little bit tricky because it's a little bit bent it was bent like that in
the package but I think it plugs into holes in the run on the gangway they're
here or the site frame I guess that really is I'll just spin those holes
open and get these ladders on that actually wasn't too bad
okay the ladders are on what's next the brake wheel gate just clean up the
corners of this wheel a little bit here
I've been doing this on a lot of the parts I just haven't been boring you
with it assume that there's a little bit of flash cleanup on everything not too
much this gets pretty good for that but there's always going to be a little bit
especially when you're if you're cutting wide or something is that gonna go on
here we go
we toured a drop of that onto there and as the instruction sea let dry yeah well
that's happening what do we do we glue the dome to the tank so the way the draw
there's a notch and the notch that it meets with is there that's just idiot
proof that just pops in just like that excellent and I can put some glue on the
inside of there so we'll never see it that's great - hmm okay back into a spot
we put in place tada okay
there's the handrail it goes right around like that
and it plugs in to bunch of holes which I don't have to drill out oh that's good
not sure exactly what's the best way to accomplish this maybe I should do the
two ends first
then again fiddling ICC's okay I've got all those handrails fiddled into place
I'm gonna try something different for the glue again know what I'm almost done
these things are tiny just using a paintbrush teeny little bits glue in
there this is a 5/0 super fine paintbrush I think I got at the one of
my local dollar stores there's a pretty good art supply section okay
oh the brake wheel of course the brake wheel goes great is there should drilled
him out sooner a lot sooner
is that him please I think so I think that is the last step yes that's his
completed mortal I've run out of parts except for the few extras that I didn't
use didn't need because that he's the nice thing about these kids they do have
some extras if you happen to break one else grab irons irrevocably like that
one there I'll just let this guy dry and let's see how it looks up on the
railroad and there it is with the rest of my tanker fleet I think it fits in
pretty well with with some of them it is a little bit old for my era as I
mentioned but it's not not going to bother me too much oh no I think that
guy looks pretty darn good obviously it's far too shiny for the
error that I'm modeling and it probably wouldn't have survived anyway but that's
beside the point I'm gonna run it anyway it's gonna need some weathering but I
think this video is going along enough so I'll uh I'll do that weathering some
other time you may see it you may not I'm not sure yet actually let me know
down in the comments do you want to you want to see a weathering video on this
car anyway thank you very much for watching as always I really do
appreciate it if you've got any comments jump down in the comment section and
we'll do that down there thanks for watching and I will talk to you later
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