(crunching)
(sizzling)
(laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Mark] Oh, look at that.
There must be 30 different ingredients in this mole recipe.
(speaking in foreign language)
- I can tell you certainly,
there's nothing like this in the world.
(exciting music)
Good morning, I hope you're having an amazing day.
It's Mark Wiens, I'm in Oaxaca, Mexico.
Okay hold on, we've gotta back up.
I need to tell you the full story.
So at this point in the morning when I started this video,
I desperately wanted to eat some homemade
Oaxacan mole negro.
The only problem was I had no clue yet
how it was going to happen.
Our full plan for the day was to,
number one, hire a van and driver for the day,
which we had already arranged the night before.
So we can cross that one off the list.
Number two, drive to a local Oaxacan village.
Number three, go directly to the fresh market.
And number four, walk around and find a grandmother
or aunty to cook us some mole.
From scratch.
Yes, we were going to wing it,
and I knew very well the risk of
failing the Oaxacan mole negro mission was very likely,
but sometimes when you travel without a plan,
you end up having the most memorable
experiences of your life.
So we're now in the van,
and we are on our way to a place called
Teotitlan del Valle,
and that's when things took a turn for the best.
(bright music)
We're quickly stopping to get some gas,
but I just gotta fill you in on what's happening.
When we started off today, we had not,
we didn't really have a plan of
what we were gonna do.
We just wanted to go to Teotitlan del Valle.
And we wanted to find, especially mole,
because they're known for mole around that region of Oaxaca.
But we were talking to the driver, our van driver,
who's a awesome guy, and he mentioned that he's
actually from a village which is very close
to Teotitlan del Valle.
And he called his mom.
He asked if she could make mole for us,
and she agreed.
So we're on our way.
Well, we're stopping for gas right now,
but we're on our way to go pick up his mom,
then we're gonna go to the market.
We're gonna buy all the ingredients for mole,
and she's gonna home cook us mole.
This is gonna turn into a Oaxacan food mole adventure.
(upbeat music)
(speaking in foreign language)
- This could not be a more perfect location.
The house is beautiful,
the countryside here is gorgeous.
The family is so generous and so inviting.
We're on our way to the market now.
(speaking in foreign language)
- The actual town that we're in
is called Tlacolula de Matamoros.
And this is a Zapoteca town,
so that's the culture, the ethnicity.
Okay, and we have just arrived to the market now.
(speaking in foreign language)
(exciting music)
- [Mark] We're stopping first to buy the chilies.
Oh man, so many different types of chilies.
That's a big bag of chilies right there.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Vegetable section now.
We're buying some tomatoes, some onions,
some peppers, some green tomatoes.
And they even put bread inside Oaxacan mole.
(speaking in foreign language)
(people chattering)
- Chicken.
(squawking)
(speaking in foreign language)
- We're getting a full chicken to go with that mole sauce.
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Mark] It's her recipe, oh.
Is she a relative?
(speaking in foreign language)
- While we were at the chicken stall,
we met the grandmother whose recipe we'll be making.
It's her mole recipe.
And she definitely knows what she's doing
when it comes to mole.
Things just even got better.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Okay, this is called tejate,
and it's a traditional drink.
She uses, there's corn in here,
and there is chocolate, I'm not sure what all else.
But as we were entering the market, she was making it,
and she was whipping it up with her hands.
It was like a thick paste.
But now she added more water,
so it's turned into a liquid beverage.
But there's still some chunkiness on top.
This is very interesting.
I can't wait to try it.
Oh, and I asked her for it with no sugar.
She said you could have sugar or no sugar,
or however much sugar you want.
It's really good with no sugar.
You can taste the corn in there.
You can taste the chocolate.
It's a little bit starchy.
It tastes like kind of a cross between
a beverage and a porridge.
It's great.
(speaking in foreign language)
(mariachi music)
- Okay, we made it back to the house.
It's time to start cooking.
I wanted to just explain that this entire area
and this city is known for it's Zapotec population,
which is the indigenous people of this region of Oaxaca.
Tamales Oaxacenos.
(speaking in foreign language)
- She's getting started making the mole
by just first starting off with the chilies.
Those are pretty large chilies.
She's emptying out the seeds, scraping out the seeds.
And in the meantime, we have gotten lucky,
and she made, without knowing,
she made some tamales, some local Oaxacano tamales.
Steamed in corn husk.
Let me empty this out.
Let me just break up this tamal.
(speaking in foreign language)
- I am not totally sure what that is.
You know what it is?
There's a tub of salsa that our driver,
oh by the way, his name is Javier.
He said this is his favorite salsa that his mom makes.
And he said it's picante, it's spicy.
I'm gonna add on some of this salsa.
He said it's spicy.
Looks amazing.
Oh, that's amazing.
It's corn, but it's not like finely ground.
It's kind of coarse.
You can taste that unique vegetable in there.
It's more like an herb I think.
Maybe like a wild herb.
It's delicious with that salsa.
Oh, it's incredible.
Salsa's a little bit spicy,
but just perfect with that tamale.
It's delicious.
(speaking in foreign language)
(mariachi music)
- That first step of chili is all ready.
We're moving into the kitchen now.
They're gonna light the fire,
and we're gonna get started cooking this mole.
And they're making it purely from scratch.
All the raw ingredients, or the dry chilies,
the dry ingredients.
Yeah, but everything is from scratch.
It's such a privilege to have this opportunity.
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Mark] So she's roasting the chilies now,
or just heating them over the comal,
which is the clay pan over fire.
And they're not spicy,
but to me, they almost have like a sweet,
almost tomato-y aroma to them.
(speaking in foreign langauge)
- So she's roasting the chilies until,
for a few minutes until they shrivel up,
then they look kinda like a shriveled piece of leather.
But the aroma coming out, they're slightly charred.
I'm already starting to sense that complex city of
aromas and flavors that will be part of this mole.
(speaking in foreign language)
- It's a plantain banana.
She said that it's a little bit sweet,
and I am still unsure how all of this
is gonna fit together.
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Mark] So for the almonds,
she put in some oil into the clay pot
and then she's just frying the almonds.
(speaking in foreign language)
- She just pulled the almonds out of the oil,
and now she dropped in the walnuts.
Take one.
I never would've guessed the next ingredient
in this mole recipe.
They're kind of like cookie biscuits.
And again, she's just tossing them into the oil,
deep frying them just for about 10 seconds or so.
That's an ingredient I wasn't expecting.
(speaking in foreign language)
- There's also bread in the mole.
And it's a special type of bread.
There's some chocolate in the bread,
and something else.
Is that gonna be fried, too?
Oh yes, yes it is.
As the bread and as the ingredients are
being fried and prepared,
something to know about mole is that it's a very,
very well known dish.
It's one of the ultimate dishes of Oaxaca,
as well as in Puebla.
And there are mixed theories of how it was invented,
or how it came about.
But one thing is for sure is that
it is a combination of both the local
indigenous ingredients and cooking techniques
combined with the European colonial influence
to create this truly unique blend of flavors and tastes.
It's an incredibly complex dish,
using so many ingredients.
I mean, if you were trying to even
come up with a dish like this,
it would be impossible because there are so many
random ingredients in it,
and it's such a complex dish.
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Mark] This is some type of pepper
that I've never seen before.
The next spice is cloves going in.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Cinnamon.
This is when things are getting more and more complex.
And they're adding the spices now.
So now she's frying some cinnamon sticks,
and then we also counted out some kind of peppercorns,
and then cloves.
There's gonna be some sesames seeds that go in.
Cloves and pepper go in the oil.
The aroma of that is insane.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Oh, raisins, okay.
Oh, that smells really good,
being stir fried in that oil.
(speaking in foreign language)
- As the ingredients are still being
prepared for the mole sauce,
they're now preparing the chicken.
The chicken has all been cleaned and cut up.
And I think she's just boiling it straight up in water.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Mole is such a complex dish,
and there's so many ingredients involved,
and each ingredient you have to prepare separately,
and it's very time intensive,
and it's such a, it takes a lot of work to prepare,
so it's such a, it's so cool to be able to watch
the whole process and just anticipate the mole
that we're gonna be able to eat very soon.
(speaking in foreign language)
(sizzling)
- [Mark] Plums, I think.
Some type of plum, dried plum,
and then deep fried also.
(mariachi music)
(chattering)
(speaking in foreign language)
- It's oregano and some kind of other herb.
So basically, the chilies get blackened roasted,
but everything else is fried in oil.
Chicken is coming along nicely, nice and slow.
So she just tossed in some onions and garlic
right into the fire to roast.
(speaking in foreign language)
- These white sesame seeds.
That also goes into the oil to fry.
Man, she has fried like at least 15 ingredients so far.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Separately in the chicken pot,
after just boiling the chicken in water,
then she added in some onions and some garlic,
and also a type of leaf called oja santa,
and that's gonna create a chicken broth
that they're also gonna use for the mole.
These are all of the ingredients so far.
Look, it's an entire bucket of ingredients.
(speaking in foreign language)
- The onions and garlic finished roasting in the fire,
and then they're just peeling off that
outer blackened layer and revealing just that
juicy flesh underneath.
And then for the tomatoes,
there's two kinds of tomatoes.
The green tomatoes and the red tomatoes.
And she's again just frying it in
the clay pot for a little while.
(mariachi music)
(people chattering)
(speaking in foreign language)
- That took about two hours to prepare everything.
It's now time to start grinding everything together
to make he sauce.
(grinding)
(people chattering)
I love the sound of that rock on rock,
but then with the squishing sound of
those chilies in between the rocks.
And she's such an expert.
You can even smell, you can really fragrantly
smell the aroma of those chilies in there, too.
(grinding)
A stone grinder like this is called a metate,
but it's very, very time intensive.
It would take hours and hours to grind up
this entire bucket full of ingredients for the mole.
They're gonna take it to the market
where they have a bigger grinder called a molina.
And they're gonna grind everything on that
so it will be a lot faster.
So it doesn't, it wouldn't probably take until tomorrow
if they tried to grind all of that by hand,
and we don't have that much time.
So they're gonna do that, but in the meantime,
we're gonna go to a waterfall
which is near to this area because then after that,
the paste, it has to cook for a while.
And then we're gonna come back to eat
this just sensational mole.
(bright music)
The drive to get here was gorgeous.
We came really high into the mountains.
It's the views, the rugged landscape is incredible,
and we've arrived the place, it's called Hierve del Agua.
It's beautiful here.
It feels like you're on the edge of the Earth here.
And this is where the water is bubbling,
but the water is not hot.
It's just kind of like fizzing.
It's just room temperature water.
We now hiked over to the main swimming pools.
It's quite a unique landscape.
It's almost like a moonscape.
(water bubbling)
(bright music)
Those were some pretty interesting
and very unique moonscapes,
but I am very, very hungry now.
My excitement for eating mole is at an all time high.
(upbeat mariachi music)
(speaking in foreign language)
- Over here, this is the paste.
And so that was all, wow, you can smell it.
So you can see the shimmering oil on it.
I'm just gonna taste the paste.
Oh wow.
That's like unexplainable.
It's almost like foamy in texture.
You can taste the spices.
The hint of clove, the pepper in there.
(people chattering)
(sizzling)
(speaking in foreign language)
- Also, they already added the chocolate in there,
so we didn't see them add that,
but they added chocolate in there.
It's almost time.
(laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
(sizzling)
- Sesame seeds.
It took like five hours to make this mole.
They made everything from scratch,
starting with the chilies.
There must be 30 different ingredients in this mole recipe,
and what I love is that the family,
they just kindly invited us into their house,
and into their compound, into their home,
like we were family here.
So what's interesting about mole is that
they don't cook the chicken within the sauce,
but rather the chicken is cooked separately,
and then the sauce is prepared separately,
and then they combine the two for the final process
right before you eat it.
(people chattering)
Wow.
Oh wow.
I can tell you certainly,
there's nothing like this in the world.
It is, it's so unique.
It's so, it's such like an impossible
mixture of ingredients.
You don't even know, actually,
and it's true that they don't know
exactly how mole was invented.
It's a very mysterious, amazing flavor.
You can taste the chocolate,
you can taste the chilies,
you can taste the nuts in there.
It has a nutty taste.
It's really rich.
Wow, it's phenomenal.
Oh, look at that.
It's really all about the sauce.
But chicken is just like a,
is just the second ingredient in this dish.
I have to taste a bite of chicken
before I even move on to any carb form.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Wow.
Yeah.
That's stunning.
And again, the sauce, I mean.
The sauce is so incredibly flavorful
that all it needs to do is coat the chicken.
It doesn't need to permeate into the center of the chicken.
I gotta get a bit more sauce though on there.
(mariachi music)
That's remarkable.
(people chattering)
Carlos and Annette, how's the mole?
Annette?
- Delicious.
- [Mark] Carlos.
- Unique, special.
Very different than any mole I've tried before.
Very good.
- [Mark] By the way, she refilled my sauce.
(speaking in foreign language)
- This mole sauce is just blowing my mind right now.
They've also made us a plate of chapulines,
which are grasshoppers.
And grasshoppers are very, very common in Oaxaca.
You'll find them at the market.
They said they harvest these grasshoppers
sometime in November, October or November,
when that's grasshopper season.
But then they save them all.
So they have a continual little supply of
grasshoppers throughout the year.
Oh wow.
Oh those are just fantastic.
Oh that's an entire mouth full of grasshoppers.
And they're kinda crunchy.
They have, I think they're cooked with some salt and lime,
because the flavor is amazing.
Oh those are beautiful, I love it.
Oh, with that sauce.
Mole, chapulines.
Oh yeah, look at that.
I'm gonna add on a little more
mole sauce onto this grasshopper.
That's actually an outstanding combination, too.
I like it with the grasshoppers.
That gives it a crunch.
That chicken just falls off the bone.
Oh look at that.
I'm gonna add this to my rice,
and I've got one combination that I need to try.
I mean, I love it with the tortillas,
but with rice, I mean, I am Asian, I love rice.
It's so good with rice.
Oh, this sauce is just insane.
Okay, they also have one of mom's
homemade salsas here, and I've seen Javier.
He is adding some of the salsa to his mole,
so I'm gonna follow.
Oh wow.
There's nothing better than adding sauce to sauce.
Okay and then finally,
I gotta go in for some of those chapulines.
Sprinkle those on top.
Oh wow.
Let me add one more grasshopper for the final topping.
And there it is.
That is possibly the greatest single bite of mole
in the entire world.
And that completes the mole.
That was an absolutely stunning meal.
Do I have any grasshoppers stuck in my teeth?
I don't think so, I just have a chocolate mustache.
A mole mustache.
Oh man, that was so incredibly good.
I love the mole.
I love this entire experience.
And when we set off this morning,
we had no idea what we were gonna do, actually.
We didn't have plans.
All we wanted to do was eat,
wanted to find and search out some of the best mole.
And it was an incredible success.
But thanks to the family here,
I wanna say a huge thank you to Javier,
who was our driver, because he graciously
thought of this idea and then he called his mom.
His mom agreed, and they graciously invited us
into their home, which is incredible.
I've said it many times before,
but this is another one of those experiences
that is worth traveling across the world.
There's nothing like an experience like this,
when it comes to food and travel.
And I'm extremely grateful to have this opportunity.
So again, huge thank you to the family.
We are all very happy and full of mole now.
And they're gonna give us some of that mole paste
to bring home with us.
Okay, I'm gonna, before I'm a little bit
under the influence of mole right now,
so I'm gonna quit talking,
and I wanna say a huge thank you for watching this video.
Please remember to give it a thumbs up if you enjoyed it.
Id love to hear from you in the comments section below.
If you're not already subscribed,
click subscribe now.
I'm gonna be sharing lots more videos like this,
and food tours, and travel videos.
And also click that little bell icon
so that you don't miss the next video that I publish.
Thank you so much for watching,
and I will see you on the next video.
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