Ok. I'm ready for my next trip. But as you can see I don't have any luggage and I don't need my passport
and the reason is that I'm already at my destination, that is Rome !
And that's because I'm going to visit Rome through the eyes of a friend of mine from Croatia who came here for the first time:
Tvrtko. That's his name.
- Hello ! - It's not a weird sound.
- Tvrtko. - Yes, that's my name. Tvrtko.
So what are your expectations about Rome ?
Well, I'm expecting good food.
Yes, first of all. That's the most important thing for Tvrtko.
Yeah, of course.
And... Colosseum.
And the Colosseum. All the rest can just...
We can forget about it.
Exactly !
Well, we'll see it.
I don't know what's there in Rome, but... we can see...
Yeah, you will see. There's a lot of stuff to see. So let's go !
We are leaving my apartment and, since we are in a suburban area and there's not much to see here
except for the neighbors' yards and their barking dogs,
we'll have to go downtown for the most important sights in Rome.
We'll have to take a bus which unexpectedly arrives just after a few minutes.
This bus will take us to the closest subway station: Battistini
which the last stop on line A, one of the two only lines of Rome's subway system.
We're riding the subway towards Flaminio, the stop where we'll get off
and we're on line A of the metro system of Rome which is not very efficient because we only have two lines
line A and in line B and they only intersect in one point, in the center where the central station is,
so it's really not convenient when you have to go somewhere in Rome
because, even if you're close to your destination, you still have to go all the way to the center, then change lines
and go to your final destination, which is kind of stupid, but that's the way it is.
And so, you know, this is a big problem of Rome: transportation. How to get places.
It's really complicated for some people, especially when it's crowded and, you know... that's a problem !
But it only takes us a few minutes to get to our destination
which is only a few stops away on the same line.
We're in Piazza del Popolo (Popolo square)
which many people think means square of the people because popolo in Italian means people
but it actually comes from Latin. It's a Latin word, "populus", which was a tree
which is "poplar" in English and maybe - I'm not sure about this, I will have to check
but probably it was named after this tree because this square is where that kind of tree used to grow ?
I will check that.
And actually the legend says that there was a grove of poplars not far from here by Emperor Nero's tomb.
The center of the square is marked by one of the 13 ancient obelisks of Rome.
This one is called Flaminio obelisk, built during the kingdoms of the Pharaohs Seti I and Ramses II
in the ancient Egyptian town of Heliopolis and then brought here by Emperor Augustus.
In 1823 the Italian architect Giuseppe Valadier built a fountain at its base with four stone lions to imitate the Egyptian style.
On both sides of Porta del Popolo, the ancient gate that was the starting point of the Flaminia Road,
we have the church of Santa Maria del Popolo and a Carabinieri station,
that is one of the stations of an Italian military force charged with police duties.
Right behind the church, a hill named Pincio gives access to Villa Borghese,
one of the biggest parks of Rome and from up here, not only can you see the entire square
but you can also spot the dome of Saint Peter's basilica and other important buildings of Rome.
We go back down and, while someone is riding a bike with his beautiful cat comfortably sitting on his back,
we walk between the so called "twin churches" that mark the starting point of the renowned Via del Corso.
We are in Via del Corso, which is the, you know, like the shopping street of Rome.
Ok.
With lots of stores and labels and stuff.
Like probably expensive ones. Like Prada ? Or like H&M ?
We also have cheaper stores.
So we can buy stuff.
Yeah.
Actually, lots of the stores here offer significant discounts on their products
from 20 to even 70% off.
And while the stores in Via del Corso are still affordable for pretty much everyone,
one of its side streets, Via dei Condotti, is only meant for those who have a fat wallet.
Just take a look at the signs:
Michael Kors,
Dolce & Gabbana,
Salvatore Ferragamo, where a t-shirt costs 230 euros
and then we have Jimmy Choo for Sex & the City enthusiasts,
Giorgio Armani,
Bulgari
and of course Prada and Gucci.
We just got to Piazza di Spagna which owes its name to the Embassy of Spain
and which is mainly famous for two things:
its fountain and the Spanish steps.
The so called "Fontana della Barcaccia" which translates to "Fountain of the ugly boat"
was sculpted between 1623 and 1629 by Pietro Bernini and his son Gianlorenzo
just like pretty much all public fountains in Rome, you can drink its water
which is a great relief when, during the summer, temperatures reach 40 °C.
The Spanish steps or Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti in Italian are a set of steps that allows you to reach the top of the hill
dominated by the Trinità dei Monti church.
These steps have often been used for fashion shows with models walking down the stairs
and became famous in the US thanks to the movie "Roman holiday" with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.
On top of the Trinità dei Monti hill, you can have a nice view of the square
and you can have something to drink and enjoy the sunny weather
on one of the rooftop cafes of the area
such as Il Palazzetto which is also a hotel, restaurant and wine bar overlooking the Spanish steps.
And while a dog is happily playing with his leash, we keep on walking
and from Piazza di Spagna, we go back to Via del Corso
where, in Piazza Colonna, we find Palazzo Chigi, the official residence of the Prime Minister of the Italian Republic.
The square takes its name from the marble column of Marcus Aurelius which has stood here since the year 193 AD
and its relief commemorates Marcus Aurelius's Danubian and Marcomannic wars.
After walking all the way to the end of Via del Corso,
we end up in the majestic Piazza Venezia where you can't miss the imposing monument to Vittorio Emanuele II,
first king of a unified Italy which is also the reason why it is called "Il Vittoriano".
But this monument is also known as "L'altare della patria", the altar of the fatherland
because it holds the tomb of the unknown soldier with an eternal flame built under the statue of Goddess Roma.
And while a tourist is trying to find some relief from the heat in one of the fountains of this monument
we keep going up, so that we can have a better view of the square.
But moving along the perimeter of the Vittoriano, you can see so much more
like the Teatro di Marcello, an ancient open-air theater dating back to the closing years of the Roman Republic,
Trajan's market, probably the world's oldest shopping mall with shops and administrative offices,
the Roman Forum that we'll visit tomorrow and of course the Colosseum.
Now we're looking at the Colosseum which is amazing from afar and I'm sure it's going to be even more amazing from...
from up close... but it's the first time ever you see the Colosseum in person.
Well, Roman one... well, in Rome
- because we have it in Croatia, in Pula - amphiteaters and stuff, you have seen
- Oh yes, but it's not the same
- Yeah, but the real, the only Colosseum... - The real deal is here
- This is the very first time you see it - Exactly !
- And it's really beautiful ! - And your first impression ? Yeah, it's beautiful and...
And it looks... I don't know, it's just like... amazing !
It's like very ancient, that is it ! Everything is really ancient here and it's really cool !
Our next stop is the Campidoglio, the Capitoline hill, one of the seven hills on which Rome was built
with the statues of the twin brothers Castor and Pollux, the so called Dioscuri,
an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius
and the Palazzo Senatorio, the Senatorial Palace.
We are at the City Hall of Rome, il Campidoglio, that's how we call it in Italian
and this is where the mayor of Rome is
and you can see here the symbol of Rome.
Yes, because right around the corner a small statue on top a column portrays the mythical she-wolf
that nurtured the twins Romulus and Remus.
Romulus was destined to become the founder and first king of Rome.
Before leaving the Capitoline hill,
we fill up our bottles of water at one of the many public drinking fountains of the city
This one, as the inscription states,
received its water from the Acqua Marcia, the third and one of the longest aqueducts that supplied the city of ancient Rome.
Since there's an exhibition about the Colombian artist Fernando Botero here these day,
we come across one of his sculptures: Horse with bridle
that he created in 1999.
Yes, because the Vittoriano also hosts several museums with different exhibitions all year round.
It's time for lunch and we're going to have a meal with typical Roman dishes
in one of the most renowned restaurants in downtown Rome,
l'Antica Birreria Peroni.
Did you find a place inside ?
No, we have to ask here.
Let's hurry because I'm hungry.
Yeah, let's go.
At the beginning of the 20th century this place was a storage area for beer and ice
that were delivered in the neighborhood on horse drawn carriages
hence the name "Antica birreria" which means "Ancient brewery".
This is the moment you were so anxiously waiting for, the moment we would eat in Rome
and we are going to order what ?
Fritto misto and you're going to have mozzarella di bufala.
And then we're going to have carbonara.
- Both of us. - Two carbonaras.
Or maybe I'm thinking like Amatriciana to try... like maybe to... I'm not sure, because then we can...
Yeah, yeah. You can try some of my carbonara and I can try some of your Amatriciana.
But I'm kind of feeling something for this creamy stuff, so Carbonara sounds really good.
Ok then take Carbonara. It's ok. We can try Amatriciana some other place.
And just after a few minutes, here comes our Carbonara
whose original recipe includes eggs, jowl bacon, pecorino cheese, oil, salt and pepper.
So how was lunch ?
It was super yummy ! I ate too much. That's the problem.
Yeah, but it's not over yet. We're going to have ice cream.
I'm excited about that but the Carbonara is definitely a good choice, even though I want to try "Amatricinata"
- Amatriciana. - Exactly !
- Well, we'll try it. - Cheese and speck was good.
Yeah, scamorza cheese. That's smoked cheese with speck. So you liked it.
Yes, very much !
La Antica Birreria Peroni. Definitely to go !
Yeah. And now we're going to ?
- Trevi fountain and Pantheon. - Let's go !
Yes, our next stop is the Trevi fountain and I'm curious to see Tvrtko's reaction when he sees it for the first time.
My God, it's beautiful !
Can you imagine working here ?
This fountain designed by the architect Nicola Salvi is the largest baroque fountain in Rome
and one of the most famous in the world, since it has appeared in several movies, including Fellini's La Dolce Vita.
A very common tradition here is to throw a coin in the fountain using the right hand over the left shoulder
and by doing so, you'll be granted your wish to come back here in the future.
It looks like about 3000 euros are thrown in the fountain every day.
In the meantime Giuseppe, a friend of Tvrtko's, has joined us and we are all headed to the Pantheon.
To get there, we walk through Piazza di Pietra, square of stone
where we can still find today the Temple of Hadrian,
built by his adoptive son, Antoninus Pius, in the year 145.
And we're finally here, outside the Pantheon !
This ancient Roman temple dedicated to every God is one of the best preserved ancient Roman buildings
and it has the biggest dome in the history of architecture.
According to an urban legend, rain cannot fall inside the Pantheon through the circular oculus in the middle of the dome,
but that's not true and there's actually a drainage system below the floor that handles the rain during storms.
Today the Pantheon is also the burial place for many important Italian personalities
from the king Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of Italy to the painter Raphael.
We leave the Pantheon to go back to Piazza della Rotonda, the square where this ancient Roman building is located.
Our next destination is another much bigger square of Rome, piazza Navona
that was built on the site of the ancient stadium of Domitian and has its same form still today.
This wide open space was filled with water and mock naval battles were held here.
One of the most famous features of this square is the Fontana dei quattro fiumi, the fountain of the four rivers by Gian Lorenzo Bernini,
topped by the ancient Egyptian obelisk of Domitian and dedicated to the power of the Pope and his family.
The sculptures at the base of the fountain represent the main rivers of the four continents recognized at the time.
The Nile in Africa is represented by a God whose head is covered because at the time the source of the river was unknown
and by a lion drinking water under a palm tree.
The Danube in Europe is the most civilized God and is represented by a horse ready to gallop on the Danubian plains.
The river Ganges in Asia is symbolized by a God that shows indifference to the light of the church
and therefore represents spiritual ignorance
and finally the Rio de la Plata in America is symbolized by an odd looking crocodile
and by a God who has started to see the light because he is representative of the newly converted lands.
But there's more to say about this statue.
The architect that designed this fountain is Bernini
and the architect that designed the church in front of the fountain is Borromini
and they were rivals, so as you can see the statue of the man holding his hand in front of his face
is to cover his eyes from the ugliness that the church is,
because Bernini meant to say that "this church looks so awful that I don't even want to see it"
I don't if this is totally true, but people say it.
And so we go from the majestic piazza Navona and its numerous street artists
to a much smaller but very quaint square called Campo dei Fiori
with lots of little cafés and where a market is held every day.
And they're actually cleaning after it right now.
In the year 1600 the philosopher Giordano Bruno was burnt alive here for heresy by the catholic church
just because he believed that God was inside nature and not outside of this world.
His books were of course banned by the holy office, but today a monument by Ettore Ferrari dedicated to him
stands on the exact spot of his death facing defiantly the Vatican as a symbol of freedom of thought.
But now there's a very important thing that we have to do
and so we head back to Piazza Navona and from there we need to walk through one of its little side streets
to have gelato at one of the best places in Rome, the frigidarium
where, after choosing your favorite flavors, you can have your cup or cone dipped in white or dark chocolate
that will form a nice, crunchy chocolate shell around your gelato.
Have you decided which one ?
I didn't even see them because there are too many people.
Ok.
I want something fruity.
Fruity like what ?
Chicho... Chicho-arancia. What is that ?
Choco-arancia.
Yeah, I was trying to figure out what "chicho" was.
Lampone.
That's raspberry.
Yes, that's a tough decision, but eventually Tvrtko makes his choice.
Thanks. Bye.
And now it's time to find out if coming here was a good idea or not.
- Oh yeah. It tastes like "after eight" - What flavors did you choose ?
- Mint - yeah ?
And chocolate and orange.
And... white chocolate on top of it.
Oh yeah. Wait...
It actually goes together, just so you know.
Oh my God !
- So this was a good choice... - Oh yeah
...taking your here.
- At the Frigidarium. - I'm going to come here every day
Every day ? You're going to stay two days so...
So tomorrow.
- Tomorrow ! Ok. - Oh my God. This is amazing !
And this white chocolate is just amazing !
I just want to drink it !
Apparently not only coming here was a good idea, but it looks like we'll be coming back tomorrow as well.
In the meantime Giuseppe leaves us and we head towards the Tiber, the river that flows through Rome.
Inside this building on one of its banks we can see the Ara Pacis,
an ancient altar dedicated to Pax, the Roman Goddess of peace.
And here's the Tiber, in Italian Tevere
which is the third longest river in Italy
although its waters here in Rome are not the cleanest.
But there are floating restaurants here and even small floating houses where people live.
We keep walking along the Tiber on a tree-lined street
and after a while we get to Via della Conciliazione from which we can easily reach Castel Sant'Angelo
commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family.
A legend says that the Archangel Michael appeared on top of it with a sword in his hand
as a sign of the end of the plague of the year 590.
And so we admire this beautiful castle and the bridge of Hadrian, now called Ponte Sant'Angelo, that leads to it.
But we especially admire the beautiful sky and its fiery clouds as the sun is setting on this beautiful day.
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