Hi, everyone. This is LOUD SOUND.
Today, we're starting our new section, 'Sercrets of Audio Setup'.
My expertise regards car audio, but all you learn here can be applied to any sound setup.
It is all very alike. The bottomline is understanding the principle.
I will try to put it plain and simple so that your mom, on seeing this, could go and set your system up.
We're going to start this section with setting up a crossover. To my mind, it's the most important part.
That's what I always start with.
If your crossover is not set well you may not pull up max capacity of your speakers,
or you could burn your speakers, or your speakers can sound poorly.
We have the whole frequency range. Let's picture it as a straight line.
We can divide into three conventional parts. In fact, there are a few more, but we'll go with three.
Those will be 'the Bass', 'Mid-range' and 'the Higher pitch'.
And when you open your HU's Xover settings, if it's well-developed, you can see a picture like this.
As a rule, the developed Xovers are 3-way: bass, mid-range and higher pitch.
But there are certain HUs, like Pioneer 99, which have more bands to it.
This is the picture you see once you open the Xover settings in your HU ot processor.
This is the most common and the most understandable visualization of sound.
Meaning where the sound will stop playing and how roughly it will stop.
So, we enter and see this. This is the whole frequency range.
If we loosen up the Xover - the majority have this option -
This like here will straighten up into this one up here which means all bands will be playing all frequencies.
That is very wrong and you should never do that.
Why's that?
If we don't cut tweeters at this point and let them play all the frequencies below it, they're very likely to burn.
Your tweeters will have to play frequencies they are not supposed to play.
With a sub, if we loosen it up and let iy play above this, it will humm and play vocal parts.
This means, the power will be limited, and the sound will be crappy etc.
With the mid-bass, it's the same as with tweeters if we don't cut them at the bottom,
it may burn or fart
If we clip it wrong on the top, tho, nothing horrible is gonna happen. This part is the most forgiving.
Here, you can loosen up the top, play with the bottomline. Nothing bad's gonna happen.
Speakers like mid-range or mid-bass have natural muting on the top line of their range.
If they're set to play the frequencies they can't play they will lose some of the power, not much,
and if their range crosses paths with those of a tweeter, we might have a bump here.
At this point, it would be very interesting to answer the question I've been asked pretty often.
People have been accusing me of the fact our setting looks like this.
The frequrncies cross, and people ask what happen on these crossings, all the time.
It is like there is a sound loss. And so they ask what id played here, if this is 63 Hz, and this one's 25 Hz.
What is playing the frequencies in between.
If your ceossover has these parameters of clipping, this doesn't mean that this part is completely muted.
It is most likely there will be sound here.
And here is the hardest and the most intriquate part of the setup process - you gotta HEAR it.
You can't set a system using just the numbers.
I'm often asked, what frequency should a mid-bass be cliped at?
I always say, you can only do it by ear.
There are some directing points, some basic standards,
and very often you have to alter the order or the clipping frequency.
If you're not into this, you must be having a huge mess in your heads about what's what.
Today, I will tell it all to you in as much detail as possible.
If you still have questions, you're welcome to ask them in the comments.
We've reached the orders and the clipping frequencies.
So, let's grab one band. Let's say, it's subwoofer.
Initially, with all filters off, the sub plays all the frequencies. We need to cut it down to those necessary.
There are several ways to do that. First, you can clip it on your HU.
It's going to be called LPF.
The new HUs have crappy localization and interface translation, tbh.
Sounds bad ennough in English, and when they transalte it into Russian, something weird happens
There will b some frequency, some '-24 dB'. People don't understand what it means.
In the sub settings it's usually called LPF, and there are three parameters there.
In fact, every filter we're going to cover has three parameters.
Those are volume, clipping frequency (let's call it Freq) and clipping slope.
The slope denotes how steeply the band is going to mute or fade away.
In the Xover settings, each of these bands can be controlled in three directions.
Gain will be responsible for the band's volume.
So if we change the gain on the sub, the volume will go up or down.
Freq is the clipping frequency. Roughly speaking, let's check out this line where every frequency is played.
Let's say, we can choose from 30, 50, 63, 80, 100 Hz.
Usually, subs are clipped at 50 or 63 Hz, no lower, no higher. Very rarely, in some systems, they are clipped off those limits.
63 Hz is usually the freq for an SQ system when we need to retrieve more frequencies from the sub.
and to make it go well with the mid-bass.
In SPL systems, we don't need those frequencies because they humm, so they're left out.
Subs are clipped there in those SPL systems where the pressure peak is at 55-60 Hz.
In this case, it's better if you set the freq at 80 Hz but it's the peculiarity of the setting.
Okay, so let's pick a frequency. Habitually, with a SPL system, you start at 63 Hz.
So we clip it at 63 Hz.
So this will make our clipping frequency.
And the sound sent to the subwoofer low to high will start breaking here, at 63 Hz.
This doesn't mean that after 63 Hz the sub stops playing at all.
It starts playing quieter.
And the degree to which it starts plating lower is called the slope of muting or the order.
This parameter is measured in decibels (dB).
It's actually, dB/octave. In order to not go in too deep with the octabe explanations, let's assume it's this much on the frequency spectrum.
So the extent to which the sound gets quieter within this frequency band - say, here it's 24 dB - is the order or the slope.
Those horrifying figures you see - 6, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, those are the order or the slope.
Ideally, in the coolest HUs and processors the order is 46 dB/octave, I think.
Which means the sound is almost going to go away completely after this frequency.
The lowest order is usually 6 dB/octave
And in this case, the sound is going to fade away gradually.
Clearly, the subwoofer is going to continue playing frequencies until this line goes down to zero volume.
This zero volume is not absolute. It depends on the volume you're listening to your music to at the moment.
So if you can't hear a sound at a certain volume, you kick up the volume, and you start hearing the sound.
This is another setting trick. Sometimes, to get a frequency we want, we need to turn up the gain
for the whole this range, for the whole band.
And then you try and play around with this thing.
Let's take a case. You clip your sub at 63 Hz with the 4th order which is 24 dB/octave.
But you don't like the fact it humms too much.
You go down to 50 Hz, again, 4th order (24 dB)
and here, you come to realize the frequencies you want are lacking. You need more of those.
In this case, we start altering the slope.
By reducing the slope, you might bring up some of the frequencies you don't hear there.
And it may be the comfortable option or you. So maybe here you should clip it with 18 dB/octave.
Later on, we can play around with the equalizer. We're gonna get there soon, too.
The equalizer looks somewhat like the Xover, but we do not chop off the frequencies as roughly there.
We can put them up or down.
Where you can find LPF. №1, it's your HU. №2 is an amp. So, an external procesor.
And it can be found in Xovers. The so-called passive crossovers.
IT's what they install in the doors. It's the worst type of filtering. You can change nothing in there.
Except for the coolass Xovers that have jumpers and stuff where you can regulate the slope, for instance.
You can regulate frequency and some other parameters, too. I saw one like that recently.
It's too hard, too painstaking to do it so I think it's better be replaced with a full-time processor.
So you can clip stuff correctly. So we write Passive X-over. And there are also active X-overs.
It somewhat reminds an external processor but in the latter, you usually set the sound via a laptop
or some control panel. They often call those rux.
An active X-over has analogue control, so you have to regulate the gain, the freq etc. with scrollers.
They are pretty rare in installs and on sale. We had some or maybe we still have leftovers. But they're not popular.
Even though the stuff's good. It's pretty cheap, it's easy to install but they're usually not flexible in setting.
Although many producers could develop this idea 'cuz it's a lot cheaper than an external processor.
So how does it look and wha should you scroll? Let's take an example.
In an HU, this is going to be called LPF, and after it there will be figures like 0, 100, 18.
As we've figured out already, 0 is most likely to be the gain, 100 is the freq, and 18 is the slope
Let me repeat myself. In HUs they're often called in a weird manner so keep looking and you'll find the figures.
On the amo, it's the very loved LPF scroller.
It usually limits the higher frequencies.
Let's say, it handles this range betwee 50 and 150 Hz.
And it often happens that when instaling a new amp - especially if the installer is not good enough -
they don't get into detail, and think this is bass boost or something, they just set this at minimum.
This is not the minimum, this turns out to be the max of the clipping.
So the subwoofer stops playing any frequencies above 50 Hz.
This figure can be different, can be lower. If you, say, clilp your sub at 35 Hz, then here, it will gradually stop playing.
We quite often have people coming in with 'weak bass'. Scroll the gain to the max, and here comes the bass.
What do you need to set? Let's say, you have an HU with this filter, and you have an external processor.
And, for example, you sure have an amp for your sub.
So we have whole three LPFs. Which one needs to be regulated?
There is no solid answer for it. The less the better. Because filters spoil the sound. Not much but still do.
So if one filter is enough for it, use that one.
For example, if you set it at 63 Hz on your HU, let it loose on the processor. And on the amp, turn it up to max so it clips nothing.
But as a rule, those scrollers let you finetune it all.
But if we have an external processor, usually we can last with all the filters off everywhere.
With correct wiring, everything can be clipped on the processor.
I think we'll have a separate video about processor setups. I will cover this matter closer in that video.
If we have a most common arrangement with an HU and an amp for the sub, you can set it on the HU only, and loosen it on the amp.
Or you can finetune it until it is perfect for your ear.
But that wouldn't do much work 'cuz the slope on an HU is always higher than that on an amp.
Amps usually have a 2nd order slope (12 dB/octave) meaning the amp won't be able to mute it down roughly.
And the HU will be muring the sound down a lot earlier.
And if you send already clipped signal to the sub, these frequencies won't be there in the first place.
This filter can actually spoil the sound. But it's something only SQers hear.
I haven't heard it spoil tat much, tbh. But you can play around with it. Why not?
Further setting goes by ear, anyway.
Now, let's move on to hi-pass filters (HPF) for the third band.
Let's see how we regulate this channel, or band.
First we'll see how we set up the id-bass speakers, then we'll move on to the mid-range, and then - to tweeters.
So, HPF or Hi-Pass Filter.
This is a filter that chops off the range the frequencies below a certain point.
Where can you find it? Just like the HPF, you can find it in your HU,
It's found in almost every HU. The only difference there is frequency.
In the cheaper HUs, it's usually limited at 250 Hz. In the more expensive ones, you can go a lot further, both up and down.
The same is with the external processors.
And with the amps, we face a funny situation. It is still a huge issue in the industry, globally, I think.
In amps, HPF filters are usually really crappy.
And there, you have to choose between crappy and very crappy.
It's cool when an amp has a well-developed HPF. But there are very few of those amps.
But they have been produced more and more lately.
Usually, those come from producers who get feedback from their users.
If we look at the steady-going brands, they keep producing amps as they are.
If lucky enough, they might make an amp with a nice advanced filter.
But usually, the HPF in amps are limited to 250 Hz, or 500 Hz. The latter is the higherst you can get.
So let's look at the mid-range frequencies.
This band can be housing the mid-bass speakers, the mid-range ones, or both.
Let's now check out a single speaker.
We need HPF in order to cut off the lower frequencies.
What do we need it for? The formula is simple. People often ask, where they should clip the mid-bass.
There is no solid answer here either. The lower you clip it, the more lower frequencies it's gonna play.
Punch will appear. If the speaker is well controlled, no farting, no squaking, no disturbances,
then the speaker is going to play these frequencies nicely. From my experience, this is the juiciest part.
If you take it rough on the sub and go higher than you should, there won't be punch.
You will only send your sub humming. It's not quick enough to process that stuff.
A nice id-bass in a nice volume when clipped at 50-60 Hz on the bottom will scream your soul out.
But there is a backbone to it. The speaker gets a long drive, and the power input needs to correspond to it.
And there's a huge risk of burning it. Hence the probable whooping.
So, this frequency we need to pull more out of the speakers.
Once you turn it up, the disturbancies will increase, too.
The simplest mid-bass setting I've promised looks very easy, actually.
You set it at 50 Hz, you listen to awesome punch, to awesome mid-bass,
and trying to yurn up the volume you hear your speaker whoop and make noises.
In this case, you start altering your frequency.
It is in Hz. So you turn it up from 50 Hz to 80 Hz. You do lose som of the bass touch from it,
but your speaker plays a loy cleaner, without whooping. And the risk of burning it decreases.
Next, follow the old scheme. Turn up the volume until your speaker plays how you want it to play.
And so on.
Many people listen to the mid-bass at 125 Hz.
Meaning the mid-bass speaker produces barely a sound below this point.
Basically, it works as a mid-range speaker.
This arrangement is mostly used in systems commonly called 'Screamers', for hardcore rap etc.
Trust me, if you listen to hardcore rap with a well-set sub, this mid-bass band is the last thing you'll need.
It's just if have an amazing punch and your bass is louder that it, you won't hear the punch anyway.
The bass'll overpower it all, and your mid-range speakers will play to the nowhere.
That's why this is the hardest about the loud systems. The hardest part there is the mid-bass I guess.
Because we can always make the higher band crazy loud with driver or a gazillion horn tweeters,
we can make crazy-ass bass, put in a crapload of power, install a finetuned box for it.
We can noise- and vibro-proof the car up and down.
But a id-bass always needs the volume and that is the endgame for it.
And so now systems have left the building, and cars no more house the systems but they're used to carry them around.
Inside the car, in order to fit the mid-bass level to that of other bands, you need a lot of volume and speakers
And there's usually not enough of those.
A perfect option is when you listen to music at the above average volume.
And you don't need to pack your doors with speakers, no need in car-tearing bass.
When you're in between of SQ and mad SPL, 2 mid-bass speakers per each one mid-range in a door would suffice.
And one or two tweeters depending on the make.
In that case, the mid-bass level can catch up with that of the bass and the mid-range speakers.
So then you'll be able to clip your mid-bass lower and enjoy the punch. However the issue is still there with the volume up.
Just like LPF, HPF can be regulated on your HU, your amp, and in this case, you very often need both filters
just because your HU's filter is crappy, and the amp's one is not much better.
And so you might want to use both filters to get rid of more of these frequencies to be able to turn it up.
In the case of mid-bass, we usually need the HPF up to only 200, 250 Hz tops (but it's rare).
250 Hz may be used whn we're dealing with a low-playing mid-range.
Anyway, it's stupid to clip a mid-bass like that. The whole point of mid-bass id to play the range between 60 and 300-400 Hz.
That is what a real mid-bass was made for.
You must be wondering, if mid-bass needs to be clipped at no higher than 200-250 Hz,
why would I say it's a burning issue of the industry that HPFs are only 250 or 500 Hz.
The thing is, this filter may be needed further. We are on the move to the mid-range now.
With the mid-range, we will have to clip it a lot further. We'll need to clip off frequencies 300-400 Hz and on.
But the main point of the issue is that sometimes, we need it to clip tweeters.
There are several ways to clip tweeters. We'll get there soon.
But to give you sneak peek, one of the ways is from an amp.
If you lack the filter or a processor on your HU, you let the tweeter play the whole range, and you burn it.
There are several ways out as you'll see in a bit.
But back to the HPF on amps. Some amps have HPF advanced enough to go up to 4 KHz or even 8 KHz.
8 KHz is 8,000 Hz. I hope, that was no surprise for you.
In this case, despite the fact it's most likely to be 2nd order you can get away with little loss.
So if your HU has no processor, and there is no external processor, too, at best, an amp can save your ass
There are worse scenarios, too. I'll cover them in a bit.
But if you want to amplify the signal for tweeters and clip it correctly,
you need an amp that filters -- ooh, missed a zero -- with an HPF no lower than 4 KHz.
Now we move to - what? To LPF. Surprise.
But we're most likely to have to clip the mid-bass speakers on the top, too.
In the majority of loud systems - we're gonna speak about the loud ones now - the MB are clipped at 125 HZ.
This way you can put in a lot of power. The speaker will scream really well.
In this case, we will need the whole range. We'll need it to play up to wherever it can reach.
In this case, we may need the LPF only to increase the volume within this range. Not significantly, though.
It's gonna fade away gradually, so if you lose the LPF, you'll limit the power but it won't be crucial.
So you won't hear any peculiar disturbances, no farting but there will be more frequencies going in,
hence there will be more power wich may lead to larger overheating.
So even if your system is supposed to screamm its ass off, it is recommended you have an LPF here.
And at this point, you stumble across the fact that there are only a few amps than can work with both these filters
This is called bonpass. The amp switches usually go between OFF, HP and LP.
So you can either set it at LP and cut off the higher frequencies, or at HP to cut off the lower ones.
The amps where both can work together usually have a BP (Bonpass) option.
LPFs are also an issue with the amps 'cuz there are not that many units that have a wide range for the LPF.
As a rule, an LPF filter on an amp can finish at 250 Hz which is enough for a stand-up system.
I will make it clear about what I think a stand-up sys is.
But if you want to cut it higher and you don't have a processor or a processor-equipped HU, most amps can't do that.
Let's take an example. Say, you're installing a 2-way with a tweeter and a mid-bass. So, no mid-range.
Consequently, you need to pull out all the mid-range frequencies out of the mid-bass.
Your HU is crap, you don't have a processor. So which amp do you need?
Do you need the one with BP but more expensive, or would just an LPF/HPF but cheaper one do?
A cheaper one with the LP, there you'll have LP limit right here and you'll retrieve no sound.
You have no mid-range speaker, so unless your mid-bass plays this band, your system is doomed.
Therefore, you have two options. You can buy this and use only HPF here if you need it.
Maybe you can clip it with your HU, and that would suffice. So you can put this at OFF and forget about it.
And in this case, your mid-bass plays all the frequencies it can.
If you're going with a 2-way, ad your MB plays it all, you won't need an LPF.
You can forget about it on your amp, let alone the HU.
You only set an HPF clipping it depending on the volume you are going to listen to.
And forget about it.
In a strand-up system - a stand-up system for me is a 3-way with tweeters, a mid-range and a mid-bass -
And in a stand-up sys, the mid-bass is clipped on the top very early.
It is very painful for many people.
In Stavropol, people consider it sort of an anti-religion. They need to get max volume out of it.
So if you clip your mid-bass with an LPF, it won't play the mid-range, it won't scream. It will just drum.
And this drumming, you can finetune to perfection.
But it will be just some dumb rhythm, maybe some bass guitar in the toppest section.
And that's it. It won't play more than that.
You will lose a lot off the overall system volume.
But you'll be able to get some really nice punch.
'Where di I clip the LP?' is also a FAQ. Again, no answer here. It's done by ear.
Here, things are a bit more difficult than what I've explained about the HPF.
With the HPF, we turn up the volume and cut off he frequencies so that there are less of the lower ones played.
But if you have LPF, you can move those two parameters towards each other.
So you can set the HPF turning up the volume, and then, if you still feel it's too quiet and you want more punch and volume,
you can play around with the LPF.
With the correct usage of the MB and with rather high volume, LPF lets you go down to 80 Hz.
In some really crazy cases you can even go to 63 Hz.
Do the speaker will give out some real nice bass. I can't even call it mid-bass.
It's really closer the the bass side of the spectrum. So you'll get some nice deep drumming.
But if you run this speaker alone with no mid-range and no tweeters, you'll get some spectacular mess.
Your covers will start rattling. Even if you have the best proofing in the world, something will definitely rattle.
At this point, many users get scared. They think they've done somethign wrong.
Just turn on the mid-range speaer, finish setting it up, and the whole mess will be levelled by it.
And here comes another secret of setting. Pretty often, bad shound should not be corrected
but rather masked by other bands.
One more thing that's important is that people often set the speakers separately
and they're often reluctunt to listen to how the speakers sound together.
You need to set them both ways. So you set them p separately, turn on a different band, fintune them together
then you can turn off one of the if you need to lidten to a certain one.
And so on. Well, setting up a sys is a multi-stage process.
'Okay, by ear. But how much, approximately? 500? 300? 250?' That is yet another FAQ.
Again, by ear only. Sometimes, things get really absurd. There have been cases where the line looked like this.
Sometimes, the mid-bass plays a very limited band of frequencies. And people can't but think it's too narrow.
Thinking that is not right. It's only right if it sounds right.
I've always said that. But people tend to argue and throw figures at my face. If I hear it sound right then that's what I do.
E.g. if our mid-range speaker plays a nice wide band, goes pretty low down, and plays it loud,
Then you won't even need your mid-bass to bark out those higher frequencies.
It is better that the MB plays louder and clearer but a narrow band within the lower range.
That is a working scenario, too. But in general, in an arrangement like this the MB plays up to 200-250 Hz. Sometimes less.
If it works fine - why not? On the other hand, there are very demanding systems with a castrated mid-range.
In that case, you won't have a choice but to pull your MB up the scale.
The most common example is BMW's stock audio.
I happened to loosen up those speakers under the seat up to 1.2 KHz and 1.8 KHz, too. All by ear.
And then you need to finetune it all with an equalizer 'cuz in that floor - our regards to the BMW engineers! --
With that placement, something -- some terrible things happen to the frequency response.
Sometimes, it takes a setting genius to get it down. I once had to set up a custom system in stock spots,
and it took me 4 hours to pre-set it, and 5 more hours the next day to finish it up.
And some systems are good to go right away. You just have to brush it up a notch - and there you go.
So, we're done with the MB. If you like it loud, no need in LPF. Use the HPF to manipulate the volume.
If you need more punch and higher quality, clip on both sides, move the filters towards each other
And, please, remember there are filters in both your HU and the amp. If you think, 'I don't have this filter',
a mid-bass can be clipped on the HU with an LPF, and on the amp with an HPF.
Those are viable options, too if your amp filters have the capacity.
Let's now move on to the mid-range speakers.
So we have already set up the subwoofer and the mid-bass speaker. Now, where's the mid-range?
If we're dealing with Pioneer 99 or the processor Bit one - not Bit Ten, 'cuz than one has 3 bands while Bit One has 4 of them -
With Pioneer 99, we will see this picture.
And this is just awesome. There's even the HPF for the sub and the LPF for the tweeters.
With Pioneer 99, you can do every single thing you can think of.
That's what's so great about it.
The most valuable thing in it is the crossover.
This is what Sony missed when designing the RSX-GS9 considered the 99 Killer.
But that HU -- it's not that it wasn't popular. I mean, I've never heard a bit of feedback about it. Never even laid hand on it.
The HU's unpopular. But if thay had this crossover, they would've sold well enough even in their pricing set.
With Pioneer 99, it's all crystal clear. So we set the subwoofer, we set the mid-bass, both sides of it.
Please, note that in this case everything can be set ont he HU. No need in processors, active X-overs, fancy amp filters.
When I'm working with Pioneer 99, I usually turn off all the filters, I set the gains to above average,
and I set it all from here. There's all in this, filters, orders, the volume, and no need to touch the amps, usually.
But what if we have a 3-way interface in out HU. For example, the old Alpine 55 has this arrangement.
We can set the subwoofer here, set the tweeters here, and so we're left with only one band in the middle.
What do you do in this case? So, here we have the sub.
The sub set is clear, right? We have tweeters here.
Tweeters are clear, too, right? But we also have a mid-range and a mid-bass.
Where do we hook them up?
There is a scheme I created, sunno, like, five years ago.
A system like this is easy peasy to hook up. There will be a slight setup limitation but it's not crucial.
Suppose both the mid-range an the mid-bass are wired to a 4-channel amp. The amp receives only one band.
Some 2-channel amp is feeding your tweeters, and some monoblock is feeding your sub.
But here, we have two ins and only one out on the HU.
What do we do?
We grab this out, and double it up via Y-cables.
We clip it with an HPF at the frequency the mid-bass is gonna play. The mid-range couldn't care less about thar freq. Let me explain why.
Let's say, this is 80 Hz. And the amp here receives the signal pre-clipped at 80 Hz.
So it plays the whole band up to the LPF filter. What do we clip with the LPF in this case?
In this case, we use the LPF to clip the mid-range speakers.
We clip at the point where the mid-ranges stop playing.
You can clip it or not. As I've already mentioned, this is the least critical frequency.
Very often it's left loose. It sometimes sounds really nice when the mid-ranges add up to tweeters.
You need to use the LPF if you want to retrieve max volume from the mid-ranges
But that is a less frequent occasion.
In the majority of cases, the deal is that the mid-range hits hard on your ears.
Sometimes, if your mid-range is up, and you can't turn the whole channel down 'cuz the mid-bass' volume is tied to it, too
And you can't turn it down on the amp, either, ' cuz with the annoying frequencies (usually 2-3 KHz) the others go, too.
What do we do here? Well, option one is, we get rid of those frequencies via the equalizer.
Or we can clip the id-range on the top.
We often clip the mid-ranges at 5 KHz, sometimes even at 4 KHz to alleviate the screaming.
And so, we need one more filter, 'cuz 80 Hz is too harsh for a mid-range speaker.
A mid-range cannot play in this part of the band. It will either burn or it will fart.
This is exactly the case where we need the amp's HPF.
We clip the channel that leads to the mid-ranges at 300 or 400 or 500 Hz depending on the result we're thriving.
And the HU's LPF is going to be limiting the band on the top.
With the mid-bass - you may remember me saying, a mid-bass can be clipped with LPF, too -
for that, we use the amp's LPF.
So, with the amp's HPF, we clip the id-range that is not clipped on the HU,
And with the LPF, we chop off the higher pitch from the mid-bass, if we need to.
Here, some limitations are in place. If the LPF works up to 120 Hz only, we can't use it
'cuz that way, the mid-bass will stop playing too early.
It is recommended you make sure you have filters up to 250 Hz and higher.
It's not rare that HPF filters on amps are insufficient.
Especially in the old - well, transition period Gladen amps.
Filters there were 175 Hz tops, and not a Hertz more. So the mid-ranges had to play down to 175 Hz no matter what.
So we have HPF here and on the HU. If we pull it too high on the HU, the mid-bass stops playing
My advise is, pick amps with richer filters. At least 450 Hz.
If it's 300 Hz, you're stepping on thin ice.
It is strongly suggested you do not go lower than 300 Hz with a loud mid-range section.
In SQ system, it wouldn't hurn if you go sown to 200 Hz.
Again, it is all individual. If your mid-range plays nice and loud, you can let it go down to 200-250 Hz, sometimes even 160 Hz.
Wow, I drew a guy.
If this was not clear and there's mess in your head, here's a picture. Make a screenshot or get it in my vk.com profile albums.
This is a perfectly simple scheme how to hook up a 3-way if your HU only has 3 outs - basically, a 2-way + sub.
Tweeter. We have tweeter left.
A.k.a. higher frequency or high piych.
It is known that the whole audible frequency range is from 20 Hz - you won't hear what's less - up to 20 KHz.
Many companies claim that their amps play up to 30-40 KHz.
Bullshit. An adult can only hear up to 16 KHz.
Children can hear 16 Hz to 20 KHz or so. Some hear more, some hear less, but in the main track, you won't hear higher that 16 KHz.
Somewhere in the middle, we have 500 Hz. This is the sub. As we've figured, it plays around 63 Hz.
In this part of the range, there are the mid-bass and the mid-range.
They cover the band from about 63 Hz up to 8 KHz.
That is in general. Although there are mid-range speakers hat can go higher.
And the higher pitch begins -- in SQ systems they clip it at 3-4 KHz or even lower,
But speaking from experience, when you're listening to loud systems --
if it's not a stage driver like those with huge magnets, caps and horns that can be screwed in on them.
Those monsters can pick up at 800 and 1000 Hz.
That sound is something soul-tearing, tbh. You may've heard those in the Kharchenko bros' Kalina on competitions.
They have driver like those. These drivers play really loud on a really low frequency for tweeters.
So tweeters can be subdivided into three groups. One, there are those small cute silk tweeters for SQ.
Well, I've written a lot and drawn a lot here, and my cam turned off. Not sure when exactly it happened,
But I'll try to pick up.
Let's leave off drivers and SQ tweeters. Here at LOUD SOUND, we just set up loud audio in cars.
As a rule, a stage hoen tweeter need the clip no lower than 8 KHz. Very rarely it is clipped at 6.3 KHz.
But, again, it's all done by ear. With 6.3 KHz, you go lower but you're still within the rather low burnout risk range.
When you go even lower, say, 5 KHz the risk of burning your tweeters is off the top.
Now, let's get to this sorn of fallout piece. Here, people often ask - not even ask, they troll.
They're like, 'How's that? Your mid-range stops playing at 6.3 KHz, and the tweeter picks up only at 8 KHz. What's in between?'
Let me remind you that the slope is not vertical. Which means after this frequency, the speaker doesn't stop playing.
At this point, the speaker starts playing lower, quieter.
It may turn put that the unfilteres frequency response looks like this, so there's a bump here,
and very often by clipping the band here we do not castrate the frequency responce but rather level it.
Anyway, even if we're damping it down, sometimes this is exactly where we need to dampen it.
These may be the frequencies that hit you ears.
Now, let's move on to the filtering.
We can clip it at 8 KHz on the HU if it is processor-equipped or on the processor. That's a positive scenario.
If we have none of the above,some decide to use the HPF on the amp, and, say, it's up to 250 Hz only.
And so tweeters tear butts going down to 250 Hz. We've had one client recently. He came saying he burnt all the tweeters.
So he shows how the previous atelier set it up. The fixed it all with the amps' HPF which was 500 Hz tops, I think.
It's too low, anyway
Tweeters are very unlikely to play lower than 4 KHz. They're gonna burn.
It's not what it was made for.
So what do you do if your HU has no processor, there's no external one, and your amp is piece of crap?
The best option, your top priority option would be buying an HU with an in-built processor.
I keep telling everyone that. Or use capacitors. I'll be back to them later.
They used to cost a fortune but now they are pretty affordable.
Now, you can buy a Pioneer 580, Kenwood 981, Alpine 92. All of it can clip your tweeter.
Did I say Kenwood? My bad. It's JVC 981.
This one would clip your tweeter, so the freq would be okay but there are order issues there. The slope's too flat.
Anyway, we're waiting for a software update 'cuz that's clearly the reason. In our JVC review we figured it.
'Cuz the JVC has the same processor as Pioneer, and the latter has no order issues whatsoever.
At the moment, the two best models you can get are Pioneer 580 or Alpine 92.
Or their CD-supporting version. Those are Pioneer 5900 and Alpine 193 or 195. Don't remember, tbh.
One of those two has both the CD and the X-over.
Well, CDs are not that hot today, so it's down to Pioneer 580 or Alpine 92.
An even better option would be buying a processor.
But it's really costly, and I understand that not everyone can afford it, let alone needs it in a simple system.
A processor is quite the luxury.
Let's see how we can use capacitors here.
How can we clip tweeters here?
So the HU - your HU is crap so its HPF is 250 Hz tops which means we don't want it.
The amp has it at 500 Hz top. Let's say, it's Kicx KAP-49. Its HPF is up to 500 Hz.
It's too little. And if you hook your tweeter up to it, it will burn anyway.
And before it burns, it will burst out crap 'cuz the mid-range frequencies are not for your tweeter.
It's not gonna last long anyway.
And the cheapest option would cost you ₽100.
You just buy two capacitors. We have tons of those.
There was a whole was about those μF or Volts. So with capacitors, I put the figures away, too.
We bought a bunch of different capacitors tried them with a bunch of different tweeters.
The process was pretty easy. I would hook up various tweeters to an HU with an in-built processor via different capacitors,
And with every capacitor, I would go lower and lower on the scale and listen to the sound movements.
They I would do the same in the opposite direction, and so I'd find what the capacitor would filter off.
Despite the bunch of theories, despite the home-bred experts' opinions
sating that this would clip it at 5 Khz, and that would clip at 1 KHz, or 10, or 12 KHz,
The fact is, he best capacitor clips it at 2-3 KHz which is pretty shitty.
It is possible that it starts off earlier, and at 5 KHz, it does clip, but the problem is that we basically get a 1st order filter,
and the fading will look like this.
At a certain point, it will get really dampened, probably somewhere around 2 KHz.
But all the frequencies in between will still be played, and quite loud, actually.
This is the cheapest option that costs ₽100. You won't burn your tweeter, but it will play the mid-range
This can be corrected with the equalizer.
If your eqzr is rather nice, you'll be able to dampen 3 KHz, 4 KHz, 5 KHz.
Whatever you have on you equalizer. You can brush it up.
But, please, remember that this will entail the dapening of the mid-range sound
'cuz there is a sole equalizer for all the bands.
And when killing these stickout frequencies, you'll kill those played by the mid-range speaker, too.
This is a tricky part of setting, too. You can highlight the mid-range here. But this is capacitors.
We've done our faid share of this setup technique, too.
And, well, you do bring the sound to a level but you don't use the system at full swing.
just because you have to turn down the tweeter to make these freqs lower when it is clipeed this way.
And these frequencies suffer from you equalizering. It's crappy. But it's cheap.
Another remedy is - well, I wouldn't say it's cheaper that replacing your HU but if you manage to find an amp --
the remedy is an amp with an advances HPF. But those amps usually cost quite the penny.
A good amp would give you 4, 5 or even 8 KHz HPF. But again, 8 KHz is where the slope begins.
But the steepness of the slope is a different thing. Amps usually filter with 2nd order.
So if an HU would kill the sound like this -- an amp would go flatter, and these freqs are gonna come through.
This is one of the options you can use to set your tweeters in a sys with an HU with or without a processor.
To sum up. I hope you found this video useful even though I'm sure it's a bit too long.
It's after midnight here and I'm still recording this video. Sorry if I missed something.
Or if I got it wring, please, correct me. But mind your manners.
Bad-mannered people are treated quite roughly by me. I don't reply, I just ban straight away.
I've never deleted normal comments even if they hit hard on my ego. I reply but don't delete those.
So if you noticed me sat something wrong, please, correct or add info.
It would be beneficial to all, I would learn something new, and so would people who read comments.
Anyway, I do not claim to be a caraudio guru. I'm just an amateur whose went just a bit too deep with his game. And so here I am...
Also, don't forge to give the thumb up. That way I'd know if you like the section.
And leave your opinion if we should continue it, and if yes, what esle can we speak about.
There are plans on telling you how to use the equalizer, how to install a sub, what types of boxes there are..
Maybe some more detailed videos on how to set this or that part of a system. We're open to your suggestions.
If a certain topic gets a more vivid response, I'd probably go straight away to covering that one.
Anyway, you know the drill.
Bye, everyone. Live LOUD!
[A]: Have you ever smoked cannabis?
[K]: Are you fcking recording it there?
[Coming up soon]
Nope.
Kostya, everyone has tried smoking pot.
Everyone has tried. Just ask. Look. Arty, have you ever tried smoking pot?
[A]: Nope.
He has not. Neither have I.
But everyone else has smoked it. So it's nothing to be embarrassed of.
For more infomation >> COMENDO PLANTAS na CASA da ÁRVORE | Travel and Share | Romulo e Mirella | T4. Ep. 196 - Duration: 8:48. 
For more infomation >> →BUMBUM GRANDE & TURBINADO! Teste Estes Exercícios Para Aumentar Seus Glúteos. Como Aumentar Gluteo - Duration: 4:18. 
For more infomation >> BRAWL STARS PER ANDROID? - ATTENZIONE ALLE APK VIRUS! - ITA - Duration: 1:01. 
For more infomation >> DIY - Geometric Concrete Pencil Holder - Duration: 5:16. 
For more infomation >> Nha Đam + Vitamin E: Bí Quyết Làm TRẮNG DA Của "Thánh Ăn Công Sở" Mềm Như Tuyết Trắng Mịn Như Nhung - Duration: 3:13. 
For more infomation >> 8 Ball Pool Unlimited Coins and Cash - 100% Working Links - Duration: 0:37. 
For more infomation >> 「白頭髮」如雨後春筍越冒越多？注意，都是這「七種食物」惹的禍。 - Duration: 3:11. 
For more infomation >> Человек Паук и Цветные Грузовики Синий Трактор и Автовоз Мультик про Машинки Веселые песни для детей - Duration: 7:25. 
For more infomation >> Làm Người Yêu Em Nhé Baby - Cherry Nguyễn Cover - Những Bài Cover Hay Nhất 2017 - Duration: 3:42. 
For more infomation >> Formula 1 2017, le modelle e le wags del Circus - Duration: 3:13. 
For more infomation >> DUSTY RHODES (wrestler) - WikiVidi Documentary - Duration: 20:00. 
For more infomation >> Ra mắt dự án Mizuki Park Bình Chánh - Dự án lớn nhất của Nam Long giai đoạn 2017-2024 - Duration: 7:05. 
For more infomation >> WHAT'S BEHIND 'UNPRECEDENTED' NUMBER OF RUSSIA-NATO AERIAL INTERCEPTS - Duration: 4:55. 
For more infomation >> The Walking Dead || Don't Give Up - Duration: 2:53. 
For more infomation >> Antthony "Summer Stroll" ShortSleeve Tee and Pant Set - Duration: 6:13. 
For more infomation >> Columbus Trailer (HD) (English & French Subtitles) - Duration: 2:06. 
For more infomation >> Antthony "Summer Stroll" Graphic Tee - Duration: 4:36. 
No comments:
Post a Comment