- [Narrator] Anybody who visits southern Thailand,
all Thais that come to southern Thailand,
and to Nakhon Si Thammarat,
they would never leave without
having a meal of kanom jeen.
(mid tempo music)
Hey everyone it's Mark Wiens, I'm in (foreign language)
Nakhon Si Thammarat in souther Thailand
and this is a city that is not all that well known,
it's not a big tourist destination,
but I think it's an amazing city that you can visit.
So today I'm gonna take you on a full tour of
of Nakhon Si Thammarat.
We're gonna eat some amazingly delicious food
and visit some of the famous sites
and I can't wait to share everything with you today
in this video.
We are starting off this morning at a place,
it's just called Ko Pi and that just means coffee,
but this is the local coffee shop.
This place is legendary.
They date back to 1942 and I love how this place
has preserved its heritage.
We ordered a couple of different things,
Ying was asking what their specialties are,
but what most people, I think, come here to eat
is the bak kut teh.
Bak kut the, it literally translates to pork bone tea,
but there's actually usually,
I don't think there's ever in any tea in the recipe,
but it's mostly like a Chinese herbal broth
with pork bones and this one though,
includes a lot of extra ingredients.
There are some needle mushrooms in there.
There's some type of a green vegetable.
There's some other mushrooms and some goji berries,
some dried goji berries.
Oh, oh, that almost smells like apple cider.
It has a
holiday spice aroma to it.
Oh, that is delicious.
And I got one of those little sour goji berries in it too.
A piece of the pork bone, that looks wonderful.
Look at that beauty.
That's flaming hot too!
That just falls off the bone.
Just a clean steaming bone.
Oh that's melt in your mouth tender.
That is ridiculously tender.
The meat has just absorbed that herbal broth.
I just ordered a black coffee
but they're making it the traditional, the old school way,
and I watched him as a was making a (foreign language).
Normally they put condensed milk in it
but I'm not a huge fan of condensed milk
so I ordered it with no condensed milk.
But it's pretty cool to watch him making it
as he dumps in the coffee and then scoops out the
condensed milk from the can very expertly.
Yeah.
That is strong and black and it has a very
dark dark roast chocolately flavor to it.
So it's actually, I really like light roast coffees,
but I can appreciate this dark roast very choclately coffee
and also just the heritage, the traditional aspect of it
is what makes it good.
And then finally we got some khao man gaeng neau.
So it's rice, with some type of a beef curry
and an egg on the top.
Oh that's good.
That has a wonderful, almost like masala curry flavor to it.
You can taste a mixture of dry spices in there.
This is really good.
That was delicious.
That was a wonderful breakfast to get started
in Nakhon Si Thammarat, but what I love about this place
is that it attracts,
there are a lot of Bangkok Thais that come here
and this is a must eat stop in Nakhon Si Thammarat.
But I'm also seeing a lot of locals eating here
and just drinking coffee and hanging out.
There's some policemen, there's some students.
You really feel the heritage and the mix of Thai
and Chinese culture at a coffee shop like this.
(mid tempo music)
We made it to Wat Phra Mahathat and this is
one of the main Buddhist temples within Nakhon Si Thammarat
and this temple was built in the 13th century
by the King and what's interesting about this temple
is if you can see the main cheti,
the main stuppa in back of me.
It was built with Shrilankan style and influence
but walking around now, there's a cheti,
there's the main temple and then there's all these smaller
stupas as well.
(mid tempo music)
This is the very center of Nakhon Si Thammarat
and I love, this city is great.
It's a decently sized city.
I mean, not too big, but it has a small city charm to it.
Especially the center and you can walk around.
It has a real mix of different cultures.
This is a great little city.
From here we're gonna go eat some khanom jeen,
which are rice noodles with curry and it's another thing
that you...
It's a must eat when you come to Nakhon Si Thammarat.
There are a lot of khanom jeen restaurants
in Nakhon Si Thammarat.
This place is called Khanom Jeen Mae Aed
and it is just one street over from the temple.
It's about 500 meters away so you could easily walk here.
(foreign language)
They make all of the kanom jeen, the rice noodles,
fresh every day and he has this hydraulic machine.
She's gonna show me real fast.
Oh very cool.
(sizzling)
That is a gigantic wok of boiling water
and he said that it just needs to boil for one minute
and they are cooked.
Then he fished all the noodles out with a basket
and then I think he's running them through some cold water
behind there.
But that even just increases the anticipation
for the noodles that we're about to eat here.
The entire table is just full of colors
and different ingredients.
You've got all the different curries,
this is the basket of the fresh rice noodles.
You eat the noodles with the curry but khanom jeen
would not be the same without fresh vegetables.
This is just a gorgeous platter of fresh vegetables.
There are so many different herbs and leaves.
I see weened bean, I see climbing waddle,
I see cashews nut tree leaves, I see cucumbers
and then there's also some pickles, some bean sprouts.
Khanom jeen is all about this whole experience.
I love how they pack this rice noodle.
They put it in a basket with some leaves
and then give you a pair of scissors within it.
I love how these are just like office scissors as well.
And then on the (foreign language)?
Alright, that should be good.
You don't want to chop them up too much.
But that does, you can see they have a very sticky,
sticky consistency and if you touch them with your fingers,
they immediately stick to your fingers
because they're so sticky.
Okay, and that should be good to start.
You can kind of break them apart a little bit.
When you eat khanom jeen, there is a trio of curries,
in the south, that is the most popular trio.
And starting from this side, this is nam ya kati,
which is a minced fish curry with coconut milk.
And this one is nam prik,
which is more of a sweet peanutty curry,
and then the final curry in the trio of curries
this is called nam ya ba.
I gotta start with the nam ya kati,
which is coconut milk and minced fish.
This is one of the absolute classics.
Oh yes!
And before doing anything else I will take a bite of that.
Oh wonderful.
Oh yeah, that is just pure, rich, thick coconut cream.
You can taste the turmeric and the chilies in there.
I'm tasting some lemon grass in there as well.
And then the fish is very pureed minced down there.
But it's also thick, not only from the coconut milk
but from the pureed fish.
These are cashew tree leaves
and I have definitely had these before.
But they, let's just say--
Let me show you.
(crunching)
Yup, really really chalky and really really sour.
They're awesome.
That just completely palate cleanses your mouth.
Next up let me try that nam prik.
I knew it before I tasted it,
but this is always a sweet curry.
It is very coconutty and very peanutty.
This one is typically not my favorite
but it is actually quite good.
Let me go in for the third curry now,
which is called nam ya ba.
Um that is a nice strong fishy taste.
But it tastes like roasted or dried fish in there.
A little bit of a kick to it.
There are definitely some chilies in there
and you can taste some herbs as well.
And then another protein addition is a hard boiled egg.
Oh, let's run, that's the way I like it.
Alright, and just mix all of that with the pickles as well.
You gotta slice up those noodles.
Perfect.
Oh that yolk is so creamy.
Another thing they specialize in here
is the (foreign language),
which is a southern Thai style fried fritter.
You can see the shrimp.
There's a shrimp head in this bite
and bai laeb krut, which is a vegetable,
which is in English is called ming aralia.
I believe that's the name
and then they fry it into fritters.
Wow!
What's really good about their version is that
it's not batter heavy.
Sometimes when you eat this it's way too much batter
and it's a batter fritter.
This is like almost all leaves
and then the batter just acts to hold it together.
But the leaves have this wonderful,
kind of peppery herb taste to them.
And then another dish they specialize here is moo tod,
which is fried pork.
So may as well taste one of these guys while I'm at it.
And I think this would be good mixed with khanom jeen
and curry.
Oh yeah.
That does have a nice texture
and it's very very crispy on the edges.
I'm gonna taste the final curry that we got here,
which is gaeng keow wan, which is green curry.
You can tell that this is a souther Thai style green curry
because of that yellow brown color.
So they probably add turmeric to the green curry.
Um, that's delicious.
You can really taste the flavor of that green curry paste.
The green chilies in there, the kafir lime peel,
which gives it a citrusy taste,
and then I'm pretty sure they have some turmeric in there.
It's really good, actually, everything is good.
Ying and I are working through this meal,
but one of the best things to do is take some of these
shrimp fritters, put it under your noodles,
and then you eat that entire fritter with some noodles
just soaking in the coconut milk curry.
This is an amazing bite.
Oh yeah.
Let's quickly do some vegetable eating.
Long beans, a piece of jankle,
a ween bean,
cashew nut tree leaves.
What are this Ying?
(foreign language)
I don't know the English name
but in Thai it's called (foreign language).
Basil.
This thing
and a cucumber.
Okay, my mouth is full now.
That was really a properly good meal.
And what I like is that it's a lot of food
and there's so much variety but it doesn't leave you
feeling heavy or too...
It doesn't leave you feeling greasy or oily or heavy
because you've got so much vegetables.
Even the rice noodles are quite light and fluffy.
And then the curries just provide immense flavor.
What a meal.
I'm so happy and satisfied right now.
Next up we are driving over to a place called
Bann Tankhun and this is a preserved old home
heritage building.
(mid tempo instrumental music)
And this is an old, old mansion, wooden mansion
that's very really well preserved and still full of
original antiques.
It's over 100 years old, this house,
and it's...
What's cool is it's just open as an open house.
You can come in here, you've got to take off your shoes,
to preserve the wooden floors
but it's just an open house
and you can come in here and just kind of browse around
and it's a real heritage site.
I just did the math of when this place was built.
It was built 105 years ago
so that makes it that it was built in 1912.
It was built in 1912.
(mid tempo music)
Nakhon Si Thammarat, just like other southern Thai cities,
is very diverse and it has a real mix of cultures.
There is the local Thai and also Malay
in the south of Thailand,
but there's also a Chinese influence,
there is even a Shrilankan influence that we saw
from that temple,
and that's all reflected in the food and the culture
in Nakhon Si Thammarat.
(mid tempo music)
We just arrived to this place
and it was a little bit tricky to find.
It's on a street called (foreign language).
It looks like an amazing beach house.
They have a museum here in the back.
I think it's all just family run.
So we're just gonna take a look at the museum real fast
for the shadow puppets.
(mid tempo music)
They have a museum upstairs with some old shadow puppets
and they're all made from leather.
And these are 50 to 100 years old.
Pretty cool.
She's just giving us a really quick demonstration
about how they make the shadow puppets made from
(foreign language), which is cow skin.
(tapping)
(foreign language)
These are the actual puppets and a set as well,
a shadow puppet set.
Tonight, we're gonna go to hopefully,
a restaurant where they're gonna have this showing.
So I thought it would be cool to see the museum,
learn about these shadow puppets,
see them making the puppets,
and then tonight, while we're eating food,
hopefully we're gonna see a traditional shadow puppet show
southern Thai style.
We are taking an evening walk and on our way to a restaurant
for dinner tonight, that's called Krua Nai Nang.
This is a restaurant that serves southern Thai food
and one of the highlights of eating there
is their shadow puppet show.
(mid tempo music)
(laughs)
(foreign language)
That's hilarious!
He's speaking to us over the megaphone
and telling us some of the signature dishes.
This is a great place.
It almost has a cowboy western feel to it
but they have all southern Thai food on their menu
including some interesting specialties
at this restaurant
and I'm guessing that he is the owner.
He calls out on the megaphone and he calls you out.
I was filming the front sign and he said
you better take a photo of me as well.
We managed to order quite a beautiful spread
of southern Thai food.
What I got to go in for is the gaeng som,
which is southern Thai sour curry
and this particular version is gaeng som pla kod.
It's kinda like a catfish type of fish.
Is it fresh water fish?
There's some type of fruit in here too.
Let me just first taste the broth of that.
Oh those little fruits, oh yeah!
I've had that fruit before.
They just like burst with vinegar tasting sourness.
Oh, that's marvelous.
Really sour and really spicy.
Next up this is bai liang pad kai
and bai liang pad kai is malingal leaves,
which is one of the ultimate vegetables of
southern Thailand.
It's very very common.
It's garlicky.
You've got the smokey taste and then again,
those leaves, I probably explained them many times,
but they almost have a nutty taste
and what's also really good about them is their texture,
which is...
It's not really chewy but at the same time it doesn't have
that slimy spinach texture.
They're firm.
Next up I'm gonna go for this other dish,
which is kai mode daeng dom kati pak liang
and it is red ant eggs, which are boiled with coconut milk
and it's an amazing source of protein.
But you can see the ants and then the little white morsels
are the ant eggs.
It's amazing.
That is just focused on the pure coconut milk.
The ants are absolutely brilliant.
The eggs are kinda rich and yolky
and then the ants themselves have a very sour crunchiness
to them.
Any chance that you have to try kai mode daeng
or red ant eggs or red ants in Thailand, you should take it.
It's a real delicacy and it's
a very sustainable food as well.
Next dish over here is goong pad sataw
and this is stink beans stir fried.
The dish is actually called (foreign language)
which is a chile stir fried dish.
Huge meaty prawns.
Get that stink beans on there as well.
Oh yeah.
Oh that's the dish right there.
Oh I love it so much.
That is outstanding.
That curry paste has so much flavor in it.
It's spicy, you can taste all of the herbs in there.
You can taste the stink beans.
You can also taste the sweet basil in there very nicely.
The peppercorns, the chilies, and then there's also
some coconut milk in there, I believe, to make it
like more rich and thick.
Amazing, amazing.
This is the dish I love.
Yeah, I personally love--
This is one of my favorite dishes to eat in all of Thailand,
goong pad sataw and this is a great great plate of it.
Micah wanted to join in so I'm joined with Micah now.
And the last dish that we ordered is pla sai tod kamin,
and I believe in English it's a sand fish
and it's just deep fried.
Oh that is triplets right there.
Okay, I'll save that for later.
But this is deep fried with garlic and turmeric.
I'm gonna dip it in the sauce.
That's like a fish french fry.
Oh and there's some black pepper in there as well.
It's garlicky, there's turmeric in there,
and that's just a crispy bit sized fish.
So we're just gonna sit here and enjoy the rest of this food
and wait for the show, which should happen pretty soon.
Ying says we're lucky to find this
and I don't think I've ever had it.
So, I'm gonna save it for later though.
She was just walking through the restaurant and sold it.
Gonna save it for later and I will tell you what it is.
Food was great and it started to down pour somewhere
in the middle of the meal and it's been raining ever since.
But finally, the show is about to start.
(Asian music)
(foreign language)
We saw a little bit of the show but then we ended up
having to come back to the hotel pretty quickly
with the baby and with the hard rain.
But, before, oh yeah, here it is.
Before I end this video I wanted to show you
this, which a lady came around selling
and it's called (foreign language)
and it's mangosteen but very young mangosteen
and Ying says that it's really rare.
So she immediately wanted to buy it when she saw it.
They take out the big outer husk or the big outer shell
and then put it onto skewers.
So this is kinda cool.
I've never seen this in Bangkok before.
(crunching)
(groans)
Oh.
Oh that's awesome.
That's like seedless mangosteen
and because it's not fully developed, not ripe,
it has more of a crisp texture to it than a
juicy mangosteen that I'm used to.
Oh that's the perfect dessert.
Been a really really good day
doing some sight seeing around Nakhon Si Thammarat
and eating some delicious food.
This is a city that doesn't get a lot of tourism
and some Thais visit,
but not a lot of foreigners come to Nakhon Si Thammarat
but at the same time, it's quite a nice little city
and I hope this video has shown you some of the top things
to do and just a few places to eat as well.
That's gonna be it for this video.
I want to say a big thank you for watching.
Please remember to give this video a thumbs up
and I'd love to hear from you in the comment section below
and if you're not already subscribed, click subscribe now
for lots more food and travel videos.
Good night from Nakhon Si Thammarat and I will see you
on the next video.
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