All right, welcome to the second half of "How to Make a Steampunk Robotic
Mechanical Arm." Thanks for joining me and if you've missed out on the first video,
you can find it in the link below or in the little "eye" thing that comes up in the
top corner. Before we jump back into making the arm I thought I'd give you a
360-degree view of the finished piece, just so you can refer back to it if you
need clarity on where something is supposed to go. But we can't just sit
around looking at arm spinning in space. Let's get back to work.
Make the ventilation duct by gluing piece 32 on top of piece 31 and then
gluing that down onto piece 16 which looks a lot like the letter E. Now you
can glue that big old letter E on the inside of the arm. Flip the arm over and
glue piece 17 in place and accessorize it with a few fake rivets. Let's make the
hydro accelerating cylinder by gluing the ends of piece 15 together. Glue the
end cap piece 53 on to the flat side, tacking it down on one point and then
the opposite point and then working your way around it with the glue. Piece 19
gets glued to the back of the arm and then the hydro accelerating chamber gets
glued into that. Now you can cover up the seam on the chamber by cutting a 12
millimeter wide strip of foam and wrapping it around the top edge. And make
some pinback rivets on the mounting plate. I guess we might as well make the
bicep manifold now so take piece 22 and make a tube, then take your end pieces
which are piece number 14, heat them up with a hairdryer and use your hands to
shape them into a dome shape. Glue those domes on each end of the tube. Cut a 10
millimeter wide foam strip and wrap it around each end of the cylinder. This
covers up the seam between the cylinder and the dome cap. And let's put a third
strip in the center for reinforcement. Add the two mounting brackets to the
bottom which are piece 21 and then glue the entire bicep manifold assembly onto
the bicep. Glue piece 52 on the middle rung of the E and then glue on a whole bunch
of 12 millimeter circles,
which you can make look like screwheads by cutting two slots halfway down and
then removing the center piece. Now cut some circles from thinner foam and glue
them into place. A couple half circles up here and three circles up here that we
don't make into screw heads then go crazy with your pen making all kinds of
rivets with the back of it, with the front of it,
drawing lines with it, making more rivets, until your arm is just full of rivets.
Since you're probably all sweaty and stinky from all that fast paced pen work,
grab your bottle of roll-on deodorant and use it up on yourself. You're going
to smell so fresh. Now you can carefully pop the top off
with a screwdriver and pull out that fancy little ball. Cut a strip of foam
about half the depth of your ball. This will of course depend on the size of the
ball in the deodorant you're using. Glue the ball into the foam strip and then
the foam strip onto the arm. Add a few more dots and then pull out your pen and go
crazy again.
All right it's time to wire this thing up. Make two holes in the front panel of
the acid core unit, grab some wire and route it as shown here. In other videos
I've shown you this technique using line trimmer wire but I found this big spool
of wire at the thrift store and it's actually a lot easier to use because you
don't have to heat it up to bend it. If you don't have a thrift store or your
thrift store doesn't have big rolls of wire, you can find some at your local
hardware store. When you have the wires the way you want them you can superglue
them down onto the foam. Let's run a third wire from the front of the acid
core unit to the side of the gears and things panel. Run a wire from the middle
receptacle on the top of the arm around the bicep manifold and into the circle
on the center rung of the E. Run a wire from the top of the bicep manifold to the
first receptacle and a wire from the bottom of the bicep manifold to the
third receptacle. Run one from the bottom of the hydro accelerating cylinder up and
around into piece 17. And another one from piece 17 this time into
the side of the hydro accelerating cylinder. Why not add a bit of variety
with a piece of quarter-inch vinyl tubing. Sweet.
Cut off your elbow hinges leaving about seven millimeters sticking out. Heat it
up with your glue gun and spread the rivet out I use the back of a
screwdriver alright now you get to paint it black and
for the best results with my metallic paints later I give it three coats. Just
try not to paint the inside edge of the lip around the gears and things or the
two-piece number 12s. While we're waiting for the black paint to dry let's
put together the hand piece: Piece 34 on top of 33 and that goes on piece 18. And
piece 35 and two dots. Glue the ends of piece 8 together and curve and glue
piece 18 on top. Notice that the front edge of piece 18 sits a
little ways back from the front edge of piece 8 add a dot and some fake
rivets and that's it for the hand piece. Now you can do most of your finishing
painting with your metallic paints. I won't go into detail here but I'll try
and make another video with some of my painting techniques. You can find the
paints I use in the description below the video.
Grab some bamboo skewers, cut them to length, and glue them in place to create
a grate to protect your gears and things from harm,
and then paint them up. Now you can watch my video, "How to Make a Fake Hydraulic
Piston" and make one of your own. Find a video link in the upper right corner or
the description below. Make it with the half-inch PEX pipe being 11 1/2
centimeters long. Once your cylinder is done, set it aside and grab another piece
of half-inch PEX pipe. Mark and drill a hole 12 millimeters up from one end.
You're going to use a short piece of bamboo skewer to go through this hole so
that's the diameter you want it to be. Stack to piece number 13s on top
of each other and glue them together. Push your pipe through the center hole
and then insert the wooden dowel. Shove the whole contraption into one of the
disks with the wooden dowel going into the cutout slot. Slide the foam nut all
the way down and then the cylinder on top of that. Mark the top edge of the
cylinder and drill a small pilot hole four millimeters above that line and
lined up with the hole on the other end. Follow that hole and drill right through
the pipe with a drill bit that will fit your quarter inch tubing. It's best if
the tubing can fit nice and snug through that hole. And cut your pipe a little bit
above the hole you just drilled. Wrap a piece of aluminum tape around the pipe,
cutting the tape away where the holes are. Stick the dowel back in its hole and
glue it all in place in the arm. Push the foam nuts over the pipe and
glue them down to the circular piece. This does a really good job of making a
nice secure pivot point for the cylinder. Repeat this whole process for the top
pivot point and then paint those nuts. Then slide the hydraulic piston over the
pivot points and push through a piece of quarter inch tubing to lock it into
place. The end of the hose from the upper pivot
point will go into the top of the hydro accelerating chamber. The end of the
lower hose goes into the back of the acid core unit. A bit of glue to make
sure it stays in place and a fake screw head on top. For the hand cylinder cut two
1/2 inch pipes and two 3/8 inch pipes all 6.6 centimeters long, as well
as four half inch pipes 1.8 centimeters long. These cylinders will
get made pretty much the same way as your first one did, the only difference
is I want a stop on the inside of the cylinder to keep it from pulling out.
We'll do this by cutting a thin strip from a plastic lid three and a half
centimeters long and gluing that piece into one end of the cylinder. I try to
get it kind of in the right place and then I go back with my glue gun and heat
it up from the inside without any glue so it forms to the inside of the tube
and sticks there you just want to make sure you don't get too much glue on the
inside or your other pipe's not going to fit through the hole. Add a little bit of
glue along the top edge and then check to make sure that your inside pipe is
still going to fit in there. Cut a five millimeter wide by 30 centimeter long
strip of aluminum tape and wrap it around the back end of the smaller
cylinder. Cover the outside of your large cylinder with some tape. Now slide the
smaller tube in the bigger one and glue the ends on. Paint them all up then grab
your 7/16 inch tubing and using the hinged rivet technique,
attach them between the arm and the hand piece. And that's the last thing you're
ever going to need to paint black.
Well that's it! All done. You are now the
proud owner of a super awesome robotic steampunk arm. Show your friends show your
family - they'll be amazed at your amazing artistic talents and as always
if you want to buy my pattern or any others, there'll be a link here, there's
probably a link if you click the little eye icon in the corner, there'll be a
link in the description below. Not too hard to find if you know where to look.
Anyways thanks for watching! See ya.
Some people say I'm a man, some people say I'm
a machine. I say I'm a man-chine.
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