Hello, everyone and welcome to Beaver's Hobby Channel.
This is the review of Firelap L-408G6.
Seriously, these people need to take it easy with their naming
and give us something simpler.
First thing first, I'd like to thank Banggood for sending me this car for a review.
But don't you worry I am going to review it as if I bought it with my own money.
This is my first collaboration with Banggood.
But I'm not sure if it is going to continue after this
because of the thing I am going to say in this video.
But anyway,
here we go.
This is actually an old car that got updated and re-released.
So the chassis design is going to be quite old but hey, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?
With that out of the way, let's get started.
As you can see the box is really nice.
First, there is the manual for transmitter.
The English translation is not the best but it's comprehensible.
This is how it is packed in the box.
This car is essentially Firelap IW04M but for some reason the name is different.
Maybe it's because of the body and wheelbase.
Anyway, let's take a look at what's inside the box.
Here we have the car.
And Let's not beat around the bushes, whether it's licensed or not, this is Ford GT40 and a fine looking one too.
The car is full proportional from steering to throttle.
It runs on 4 AAA batteries which are not included.
Next is transmitter, 2.4 GHz, of course.
It also uses 4 AAA batteries which should be obvious at this point, they are not included.
And then there are accessories from spur gears for different wheelbases
so you don't have to buy more gears to fit different bodies.
Here is a centre shaft.
There is also a tool to remove wheel nut, which is great because you don't have to go out and buy a wrench.
Finally there are also drift tyres included in the box.
So far things are looking very promising.
Now let's dive deeper in to the car.
Let's take a look at the chassis first because I think that's what you all come here for.
This is 4WD 1/28 th scale with plastic chassis.
The suspension is classic 4-wheel independent king-pin strut system.
This design is very simple but if you think about it, less adjustment means less stuff to go wrong.
In this case there is no adjustment at all.
But I have a sneaking suspicious that parts from Mini-Z MA010 will fit,
especially springs and front tie rods with different toe angle.
There is not much play in the steering and suspension despite the design.
Stock wheelbase is 98 mm adjustable from 90 to 102 mm with the spur gears that included in the box.
The width is 67 mm with standard wheels.
It is equipped with metal swing shafts which are not the same size as other cars in the same scale.
They also use M2.5 thread and need 4.5 mm wrench to remove the wheel nut.
Front and rear wheels are 8.5 mm with slick rubber tyres
and you can swap them for the plastic drift tyres that included in the box.
The wheel offset is 0.5.
They have the same hole as Mini-Z AWD wheels so they are interchangeable.
Wheel nuts are plastic.
Not that anything is wrong with them but I think you should know that they are not made of metal.
Differentials are gear diffs. They are tight with some thick grease filling.
The gear mesh is also really good.
There is no need to worry if drivetrain will chew the gears to pieces.
I'll take the top plate off so we can see what's inside.
It's from here where expectation meets reality that things start to fall apart.
The car has ball bearings on diffs and centre shaft, but unfortunately not on wheel hubs.
Here's the first upgrade that's need to be done.
Ball bearing size is 3x6x2.5 mm. And you need 8 of them.
The servo is 9g servo with 5 wires.
Luckily it uses floating servo mount so you can fit almost any 9g servo in it.
Both motor and servo are mounted slap bang in the middle with battery to both sides
giving it 50:50 left-right weight distribution and should be good for handling.
The motor is very standard 130 motor that you can find it in any toy car.
So don't expect anything much out of it.
And it also doesn't have a capacitor to reduce noise that coming out off motor.
Stock gearing is 17T pinion with 29T spur. It's not adjustable, which is a shame.
The chassis without battery weights 105g.
On to the electronics: This is 2-in-1 unit as usual.
It has only forward and reverse, it doesn't have brake.
The servo is slow and not very responsive.
It moves in steps which makes the handling very numb.
It also can't turn left and right equally even it though it could do that in the startup calibration.
Well, at least centering seems to be alright.
Honestly I don't use AAA battery anymore, so I went to IKEA and got these 900mAh batteries.
Running time with these batteries is about an hour.
Out of the box speed is 11 KPH.
It is slow but you would not want to go any faster when the control is this bad.
The body is one piece clear plastic that got painted on the outside.
As I said earlier it's Ford GT40.
It is pretty well detailed and makes the car look like a running and driving scale model.
Wing mirrors are made of rubber so you don't have to worry in crashes because they won't break off.
The tail lights have a light bucket on each side for 3 mm LED.
Obviously, the body not as nice as a Mini-Z Auto Scale but it's still good looking nonetheless.
The stock wheels don't really justify how good looking the body is.
So let me show you this.
The only problem however is that the body is very stiff.
And the first time I tried to pull it out a side clip broke off the body.
Mounting system is exactly the same as Mini-Z.
So you can use pretty much any body on this car providing front and back are not too low like LMP cars.
Let's take a look at the transmitter.
This is a small transmitter with fold-able antenna.
This antenna is only a rubber pole and has nothing inside.
On the front there are trim buttons for steering and throttle.
The power button is here next to the steering.
And this is the release button to eject the battery tray.
Flip it to the back and there are more buttons.
These are steering endpoint adjustment,
which act more like dual rates because they adjust to both left and right.
Next are steering reverse and throttle reverse.
Here is a button with power written on it,
according to the manual it will change the power output of the transmitter to extend range or when there is interference.
There is also an ABS button for anti lock brake but it doesn't work on this car.
Then bind button so it can bind it to other cars or receivers.
And then finally a reset button to reset all the settings.
Because it doesn't have a screen, having a reset button is very useful.
There is a very dim red LED to indicate that the transmitter is switched on.
The advertised range is 100 meters which is far greater than you can see for a car this small anyway.
Except, of course if you want to use it with FPV.
The protocol is unknown and the manual only says code type is FSK.
Now that we have looked at the car, it's time to go for test drive.
Let's start with touring. Handling is pretty decent for this type of suspension and stock springs.
It handles bumps really well.
The tyres are also pretty good but the grip is gone once they pick up some dust.
However it is not powerful so it doesn't spin out that easily.
Turning circle is not bad either.
But they are not the same from left to right as I said earlier.
Now let's take a look at the lap times.
This is a bit surprising. Once I get used to the car it is really quick to get round the track.
It doesn't have too much power in the first place so I can just go full throttle almost everywhere.
And the result is stunning.
This car is really slow but it is surprisingly fun to drive.
There is some headroom to upgrade the motor.
But putting too much power in to a car with this suspension and it is going to roll over in the corners.
So I wouldn't recommend putting too powerful motor in it.
Now it's time to go drifting!
The included drift tyres don't even fit on the wheels properly.
It can only turn in to one side because on the other side steering angle is not high enough for drifting.
However once it starts sliding it is kind of alright.
The problem is it can't go in to slide that easily.
So I decided to literally slap some money on it and it got a bit better.
then I found that all tyres don't touch the ground evenly.
As it turns out, these drift tyres are not good.
So I tried putting Kyosho drift tyres on and it drifts a bit better than before.
Combining these tyres with weight at the front and it is OK to drift.
It is just OK, not good in any way.
It is still not precise but at least it doesn't kick the car out the other way unintentionally.
Some upgrades to fix the steering angle and drivetrain would improve the handling immensely and make this car fun to drift.
On to the good the bad and final verdict.
Regardless of quality, this is a very good package.
It comes with everything you need to start both touring and drifting.
It also comes with spur gears to change wheelbase.
Even though parts quality is not good, it is surprisingly well built.
The wheels are not over tighten from the factory so you can just open the box,
put the batteries in and experience the terror of imprecise handling and no brake.
The overall design is good. I like the centre mounted servo and motor.
The king-pin suspension design is simple and quite primitive but there is also nothing to go wrong there.
It is a proven system that works nonetheless.
And exactly because of this simple design the car is very rigid.
But for 86.99 USD it is really expensive.
Under this I can see a good chassis but the electronics let the car down massively and the plastic bushing doesn't help either.
After a bit of upgrade it could become a good car but it is already expensive that I don't think it would worth the price.
Sure, ball bearing upgrade can be cheap.
But electronics upgrade to fix servo throw and responsiveness is going to be at least another 30-40 dollars
for 9g servo, brushed ESC, transmitter and receiver.
You really need a clear goal in mind before buying this.
Either that or you have abundance of spare parts lying around.
The best thing about this chassis is that it can use Mini-Z AWD body without modification
or having to worry about compatibility such as wheelbase, width or wheel offset.
Just quick spur gear replacement, changing wheels, front lip and you are ready to put any Mini-Z body on it.
If you want a car with more sophisticated suspension and don't care too much if not at all about using Mini-Z body,
you might want to shop around a bit more.
On the budget side there are WLtoys 1/28 like K989 and K969.
They are nice cars if you got time to fix out of the box problems.
And then there is Mini-Q Q7 if you want an excellent car with good Mini-Z body compatibility and tons of adjustability.
But also some added bonus of QC issue here and there.
All that being said: this car is quite fun to drive and I can see myself bringing it with me where ever I go.
Because I can just chuck it in my bag along with the transmitter.
Nimh rechargeable batteries are also very safe and easy to carry without having to use a fireproof bag
or having to worry about if anything would poke the battery pack.
So I can throw them in my bag along with the car without a care in the world.
Well, that's all the information I can give.
You'll be the judge for what's best for you.
To check out this car or any other cars I that mentioned in this video you can follow the links in the description down below.
Obviously I am thinking about upgrading this car.
It is most likely going to be my portable drift machine to carry with me everywhere.
Anyway, the future is not set.
Stay tuned for more things to come for this car and my other cars too.
That's it for this video.
Please subscribe if you haven't done it yet
and hit the bell icon to get notification whenever I upload a new video.
Thanks for watching. And see you again next time.
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